Hot Rod Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hopefully it's just the battery... All the lights and everything come on, every accesory... But when I turn it over-

*CLICK*

And then the lights dim like hell after that... Seems like if it was the battery it would at least turn over a lil...

It's 11:30 and I just finished putting the damn thing together... Now I can't even start it tonight.

I'm so depressed. lol

If it isn't the battery all I can think it could possibly be is the coil not wired right (yeah i know, on a 1965 car, hahahaha laugh it up all you want)

I don't have the external resistor that was on it hooked up...

Could that be a problem?

See you guys tommorow morning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
If you only get a click then it's a matter of getting the starter to turn the engine. The ignition doesn't even come into it until the engine is turning.

Why did you leave the ballast resistor out?


Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The wire was super frayed on the damn thing right where it connects to the resistor itself...

I figured its probably doing just as much as nothing is.

I know its just a couple bucks for one but I live kinda far from any auto parts store, and I have to borrow someones ride to do it (something I hate doing)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,623 Posts
Check your engine ground wire, sounds like you have a bad ground to the block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
570 Posts
Sounds like a loose connection somewhere,if you have someone to help,have them hold the key while you wiggle some wires. Also,be sure you have a good ground to the body,some times the one that goes from the back of the motor to the firewall gets damaged or forgot,also it doesn't hurt to run one from the battery to the fender or radiator support,sort of a little insurance.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,370 Posts
Before you start guessing wires and wiggling get under the car with a Voltmeter and make sure the solenoid is getting 12+v. The have someone turn the key to crank position and see what that goes to.

It could very well indeed be the battery. The starter puts a big load on them and if they are shot or low its very possible you wont get any turns out of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,345 Posts
Starter

Doc here:pimp:

*ELECTRICAL*
REMOVE & Charge the battery with a slow charger for about 4 to 8 hours...

While you are doing that,

Run (If not already) your ground cable to any bolt on the block nearest the starter, then one to the frame and then a 10 gauge or better wire to the firewall. Use star washers, and burnish all painted surfaces.

Next Check the Solenoid Battery cable. Be sure it is TIGHT on the solenoid, and that terminal dosen't wiggle around, if it does get a new solenoid.

Inspect your battery cables for corrosion back up inside of the insulation and clean the terminals until they are BRIGHT lead color.

By now, your battery should be full charge, replace it and try it again...If you get *Click* again, use a remote starter button (which for some, is a screwdriver) and jump between the main bolt on the starter and the "S" on the solenoid..BE CAREFUL IT WILL MAJOR SPARK ..so be prepared for it while on your back...If it Clicks again, but won't turn, you can eliminate the start wires from the ignition and the main cable..

*MECHANICAL*
Pull the plugs out and try cranking it...If it clicks again,

Can you turn it a FULL revolution by hand?
forward AND back?

If it turns 99% in both direction and locks, start counting tools & Bolts...betchya your missing a socket or bolt which is now living in a cylinder...

If it turns and spits out water..you got a head/intake manifold to water jacket leak locking the engine...pull it down again..and locate and fix the leak..water is locking the engine.

This was a Top END only right? you didn't pull the starter did you? If you did, check for proper shims and lateral alignment on the flex-plate.

If everything turns OK and all is good, pull the starter and have it tested, It may have given it "s All...and needs replacement.

BTW, You are Running Stock POINTS without a resistor? ... Not for long...The points will burn up and the coil over time will fail too..get a resistor on that dawg....

Hope it helps!

Doc :pimp:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
OKAY

It's been a long day...

I woke up... The battery just needed to be charged... It turned over fine, but just WOULD NOT start.

So I start messing with the carb and notice it isn't spraying fuel...

So I rip the line out to the fuel pump... Dry... Before the fuel pump... Dry...

I hook up a ghetto little electrical pump and turn it over just to see if it'll start while my wife is out picking up the replacement mechanical pump.

I got it to start but it was BILLOWING white smoke. I mean CRAZY WHITE smoke. And it was rattling really bad.

There was some a little white smoke coming out of the engine compartment too but it was really quick so I didn't see from where.

I get out and notice one of the plug wires is loose.

The exhaust manifolds had gotten REALLY HOT really fast too (I mean REALLY hot)

I put the wire back on (I noticed I need new plug wires ASAP too), and was like "SCREW that white smoke I'm not taking my chances" and I did an oil change right then and there. New filter and all.

OH

MY

GOD

The oil in this thing that came out...

Black sludge, it didn't pour out, LITERAL black sludge that just gopped out like half melted jello.

I couldn't believe it.

You think the oil was the cause of the white smoke? I'm about to go out and start it in a bit after the battery charges back up...

New fuel pump & filter, new oil filter, rebuilt carbuerator, the heads just came back from the shop... Valve job, hardened seats (all original 65 motor when i got it)

Think a vaccum problem could cause this? My PCV valve is looking in pretty bad shape as far as ventilation goes.

I'll report back on what I find.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top