[ziatzev]

I've been doing research for a few months now and (assuming the block I have checks out good) have decided to go with a 383 Stroker. What I'm wanting to end up with is something that will turn my Monte into a high 10's low 11's car (3600lbs)

I'm using a combination of a couple of builds with parts that I "think" are slightly upgraded but I may be botching the whole mess. Builds 71, 93, 114 from here. are what I'm looking at.

I have a 4 bolt 350 block that if it checks out will be what I'm using, I don't have any history on it yet.

AFR-1067 227cc Racing Heads (76cc 2.100in 1.60ex)
I figured I'd order these with valves etc already installed.

I want to use a forged, crank, rods (6.00in), and pistons (was going to use Eagle 4340 parts for the crank and rods until I heard about some issues with them) Pistons I've picked so far are KB-SLD Dome -6.3cc (KB733KTM is the kit) which with the calculator on their site say I should be around 10.5:1 with rough guesses on block work.

I picked 2 cams:
Comp Cams XR280R (12-771-8)
or
Comp Cams 300AR (12-705-8)
I'm just not sure if they are too much or not enough.

I've got 2 carbs picked out:
Both are Holley 4150 Street HP Carbs
80529-1 750 CFM Vac. Sec
80509-1 830 CFM Mec. Sec.
I've read a few things on people using the 750 with the 830(??) base plate and getting better performance. Is that an option? Or would just going with the 830 be better?

I haven't decided on an intake yet 2 of the builds use an Edelbrock Victor Jr. but I know that air is the life blood of this motor and I'd like to keep the whole thing as low profile as possible, but if I have to cowl the hood I have to cowl the hood. What are the advantages to using a tall intake?? Is there a better option with the stuff I've kind of picked?

From what I've read so far a 383 will scream as long as it gets enough air/fuel and the lower end is strong enough. I'm just not sure how to match parts and don't really want to do the whole trial and error bit with $300+ parts. Have a hay day, I haven't' bought any parts yet all I have is the block and I'm not even sure if it will check out. Just where I'm starting for right now. I don't plan on using any Boost or NOS. I'm just looking for any idea's or what you guys would do trying to get this car into the 10-11 range. And once I get the motor all worked out I can then move on to what transmission, rear end, gears as all this will be dictated by what the motor puts out. And that is a whole different discussion.

Thanks!!!
Andrew

 

[techinspector1]

You'll need 700 hp to put that pig into the 10's and you won't even get close with a 10.5 naturally aspirated 383.

Start rippin' out everything that doesn't need to be there. If you can build the motor 500 hp (that's real) and get the car weight down to 2800 with fuel and you in it, you'll be at high 10's.

 

[ziatzev]

That's exactly the kind of thing I'm trying to get a handle on, is will what I've picked get into the 500-550 HP range. Maybe I shouldn't have put a time in the original post as I'm more interested in reaching my HP goal than the time goal. Then I guess the question I'm curious now is at (split the difference) 525 HP what kind of time could I expect out of a 3600lb car? I know gearing etc will play a role in that but lets not over complicate it.

After I orginally replied I came across this. Not sure how accurage it is or what the Trap speed would actually be for my car.

But I'm more interested if the engine combination I'm putting together would work together or if it would be a dog.

 

[ericnova72]

I'll throw my 2 cents in as I have built several 355, 383, 388, and 406 engines of the nature of what you are looking for - one a 383 very specific to your goals.

First problem I see is why use a big combustion chamber and then stick a dome in it?? A 65cc chamber with a flat top piston would be a better combo, put you right at 11:1 compression which is fine for aluminum heads and pump gas with the cam you are going to need for your power goals.

Second problem is piston to valve clearance because of the 60/40 valve shift on the AFR head, you will need to get pistons that are made for this shift or you will have to do some clearance machining on the pistons valve reliefs.

The 300AR would be in the range of the smallest cam I would use, but I wouldn't use Comp, I would go to Bullet Cams or Jones camshafts and get a custom grind recommendation matched to your needs.

The 830 is the smallest carb I'd use, and a Vic Jr , Holley Strip /Dominator, Pro Products Hurricane or Wieand Team G will all fit under the hood of your Monte(my bro has a Team G and Nos plate on his '79 Monte with room for a 1" spacer too). My pick would be the Strip Dom.

My brothers '79 Monte, all steel w/nothing removed weighs 3250 so you may want to actually get yours weighed, 3600 sounds heavy for one of these metric cars.

Here is a 383 combo we are currently using, figure it is making 560+ hp: TRW LW2491F Flat tops with 5.7" Scat I-beam rods, Scat cast crank, block zero decked, .041" gasket, Pro-Action Iron Lightning 235's(pre-RHS)with 64cc chambers bowl blended and port matched/lightly ported blended runners, 2.08-1.6 valves, about 11.2:1 compression, Hurricane intake with plenum and runner light porting, 2" spacer, 825 Demon RS carb, 1-3/4" headers(Schoenfeld's). Cam is a Herbert Solid Roller C6I -269/276° @ .050 .595" lift 108° lobe seperation(low lift design, easy on parts) w/1.5 rockers(we'd like to run 1.6 on the intake but don't have the p-to-v clearance). We used this cam because we got it used and cheap ($40 Ebay).Would like to get something custom and better but owner(a friend) doesn't want to have to renotch the pistons. This engine was $3200 total intake to oil pan 6 yrs ago with a few parts bought used(cam, balancer, oil pan, alum timing cover)

This engine has put a 3200 lb '67 El Camino into the 10's at 124 mph using a poor-to-average 4500 converter and 5.13 gears w/315-65-15(30" tall) MT Drag radials. 1.47 sec sixty foot times. Rpm is 7100 at finish line. Car is lightly street driven but would not make a good daily driver(LOL)

 

[ziatzev]

Yeah, this won't be my daily driver... I have a Civic for that. But if I decide to drive it to work and back on a nice day I don't think it would be a problem.

I had been tossing the idea back and forth about the 65cc and 76cc heads no price difference. I had figured I'd have to get the valve relief's on the pistons done because of the heads but a lot of guys I run around with swear by AFR. I'm by no means tied to any of these decisions. That's why I'm posting it up here, trying to get other idea's.

It's good to hear that you thin the 300AR is the better cam of the two, one of my firends said "that's too much cam for that" and that's why I went down to the other. I only used Comp to get a basic idea of price and what kind of values were on cams. I know absolutly nothing about cams and trying to google info on it is a lot of "we've always done/used..." not really any information on what all the values mean and do.

Why did you go with the 5.7" rods instead of the 6.0" rod, I would figure it would be easier on the motor as the 6" rod allows you to use a shorter piston so you have less weight on the outside of the rotating assembly.

 

[ericnova72]

We went with the 5.7" rod because my friend is a tightwad, the TRW forged pistons at that time were almost $200 cheaper than SRP or Wiseco, etc. I would do 6" unless I intended to spray more than 300 hp or forced induction, then I'd use 5.85" or 5.7" just to be able to lower the ring pack on the piston away from the top.

If I was buying 23° heads today my two leading choices would be Profiler or AFR, followed by RHS, Dart, and Brodix.

The 300AR isn't too bad on the duration with 255° @ .050", but lift of only .575" is low, I would be looking for .630+" up to .680" with heads that good.

The 227 is likely overkill for you, unless you are going to rev it up to 8200+ the 210 Eliminator would be a better fit and use more conventional valvetrain components and pistons.

 

[ziatzev]

Got a link for those heads??

 

[ericnova72]

Pro-Action was bought up by Racing Head Service, they are now sold as the RHS head.

If you meant Profiler, www.profilerperformance.com . They are currently running a special on the SBC 210 head, $825/pr bare with valve job, and the 235 CNC is just becoming available. I do my own porting, so the bare deal attracts me, I've seen what these will go with minimal porting. 300cfm at .500" lift, 330cfm at .650"

There is a thread about them at www.1320techtalk.com ported by Speier Racing Heads