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Discussion Starter #1
If anbody can HELP!!!

Ive got a '71 Chevelle, I just dropped a 383 w/ a 700r4 in it. I seem to be having some header diffuculties. I was able to get the passenger side header in. But, the drivers side just will not go. I remove all the spark plugs and disassembled the steering colum. Its SO close! Keep in mind ive never done this before. Is there anybody out there that has experianced this and/or knows what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks,

Stroke:pain:
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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You've got to do this from the bottom, 99% of headers do not go in from the top unless the motor is out! My guess is that you're not getting enough angle on the header to tilt it back so that you can slide it in from the bottom, you've got to get that car a good two feet in the air, maybe more depending on the length of your headers to get the proper pitch on the header to slide it in.

My guess is you're trying to do this without having the car high enough in the air-

K
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Killer,

Youre right on. I havent raised the car at all yet. Sounds like thats next on the menu. I'll put the drive shaft in (keep it from rollin on me), and then I'll jack up the front end and try to do it.


Thanks,
Stroke
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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I wouldn't trust he park pawl with your life. Chock the wheels with something first. A cinder block and a piece of wood works better than nothing.
 

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... Sorry, I didn't notice you wanted to hold the car up with the park gear. Never do that man! Block all of the tires on the ground and use jack-stands. Rember if your car is that high in the air what kind of forces are going to be pushing back on that brick... buy some proper wheel stops and do it right. Your life is worth the 20 bux.

K
 

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Pure American Muscle
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Killer is right. I have a 71 Chevelle too and though I use Hooker headers you have to put them in through the bottom. The car has to be just about as high as you can get it and then they will with a little work slip right up in there it is best to have another person there to hold it once you get it up and start putting bolts in. I tired to do it the other way to and on the pass. side you might be able to get away with it but not the drivers. Good luck!


Chris
 

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headers

I would recommend unbolting the engine mount on the side you are having trouble with and loosen the other one to within a turn or two of threads, as well as loosen the trans mount. Jack up the engine as you feed the header in from the bottom. If you do this, you shouldnt have any severe prolbems getting the header on.
You might even be able to feed it in from the top doing this.
Once the header is in place, only put in the end bolts a couple turns to hold the headers in place while you lower the engine back in place. Watch for clearance problems as you let the engine down. Letting the header hang loose in this manner may also give you more room to reconnect your engine mount to the frame. Once the engine is back in place and all the mounts are tight, then go back and install the rest of the header bolts.

IF all else fails, undo both engine mounts and jack the engine up in the car as high as it will go.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hacked Header???

Allright...

So, my brother came over this week end to help some w/ the Chevelle. I did get the drive shaft install, got most everything hooked up (w/ exception of the driver side header) , put it in park and put safety blocks behind the rear tires. I jacked the front end up about 1 1/2 to 2 feet and still could not get that header in. But I could defenetly see that it was going in better (I just need another 1 1/2'). So my brother came up with a brillent plan, well maybe. He figured that we could use one of the old headers I have and cut it about half way. So cut it at the end of the four down tubes right before they start to come together.

The plan is to use this Hacked Header just long enough to start the new motor, get it running and get the Chevelle to a SHOP that has a lift (and let some one else deal w/ it)

So just how bad is this idea? What are the pronounced dangers I will be facing by cutting that header and starting the engine with it?
 

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Is what you should do is unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up in the air a bit. If not and you do use a "hacked header" as soon as you turn the car off shove a rag up each tube to keep cold air off your hot exhaust valves. They warp easy like that!
 

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I have a hard time believing that they will not go in with the car in the air, but without seeing it I cant say. Sometimes you have to really work them around to get them to the sweet spot where it just slides right in.

Anyway, if you want to run it with open headers to a shop, it is not going to hurt anything. You dont have to worry about plugging anything up. If that was a problem, there would be alot of racers out there with "warped" valves. Old wifes tale...I promise.

Chris
 

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unbolt the motor mount on the side. loosen the others. place a nice big block of wood on the jack saddle. the car should be on jack stands and the jack is free right? with the mounts loose and disconnected on the side your working on, place the jack under the oil pan. lift it 1 -1.5 inches.

you can do it. we know you can, most of us have wrestled a set of headers or two. everybody has a first time. put on some good tunes,working music,emotional support from the girlfriend.

you can


i dont believe the warped valve thing,its possible though unlikely.

i have seen top exit, primary only, stlye headers on hotrods. and after they shut them down they stuff raggs in them,but its for condensation
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys

I've pretty much got a 5day weekend coming up. So I'll try to squeeze it in one more time from the bottom. If not, I'll go with the hacked header idea, and spare no time getting to the exhaust shop.

Thanks For the Help,

Stewart
 

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Why bother spending time cobbling something together if you have to take it all back apart? You've got to get that header in there, one way or another. Take the mount bolt out of it and tilt the motor if you have to! You'll be time and frustration ahead not trying to jimmy-rig something. Take your time and do it right the first time, get that car a good two feet in the air. Be safe-

K
 

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To get my drivers side header in I unbolted the drivers side motor mount and lifted that side of the engine with the hoist. Mine went in from the top.
 

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Don't give up. Make sure the car is safely up on stands as high as you can get it, raise the engine, and when you find that "sweet spot" where it suddenly just falls into place, you will have a sense a satisfaction that comes from saying "I did it myself". Sometimes, taking it to "experts" who know you are having problems can cost you a lot more, and the results may not be as good as doing it yourself with the proper care and attention. I've helped my buddy take his Hooker Super competition headers in and out of his 68 442 W30 a couple of times, and I know what you're dealing with.
 

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Whippetguy said:
I've helped my buddy take his Hooker Super competition headers in and out of his 68 442 W30 a couple of times, and I know what you're dealing with.
Heh, worse I have seen are super comps in a 64 ChevyII.
 
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