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Sloe Lurner
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Discussion Starter #1
From the research I've done reading on the site here it seems that the are not alot of good things to say about a "street driven" 4 link setup. What are the reasons?? This is not going to be a daily driver just a weekend showboat. I'm geting ready to spent uncle sams refund and want to be smart about it. I already have my donor rear end 1971 10 bolt posi. TCI kits now come with a track bar instead of panhard. what kind of lifespan would I expect with this setup??
:confused:
 

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DV8 said:
From the research I've done reading on the site here it seems that the are not alot of good things to say about a "street driven" 4 link setup. What are the reasons?? This is not going to be a daily driver just a weekend showboat. I'm geting ready to spent uncle sams refund and want to be smart about it. I already have my donor rear end 1971 10 bolt posi. TCI kits now come with a track bar instead of panhard. what kind of lifespan would I expect with this setup??
:confused:

:confused:

There are a LOT of happy folks with a 4 link....on street driven cars....I am one of them....

:)
 

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I am running 4 link st up on a fenderless car and I love the look. It works real well. I can cruise 80 mph and she loves to sit right down and run no vibes just smooth sallin. John
 

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For a normal street driven car I would not use the normal "4-link kits". I would use bigger and thicker tube and would try to eliminate all the threaded links and just weld them up solid...less failure points. I would also use a bushing (from some factory application with a 4-link) instead of the normal rod ends on those kits.

I would do this for a few reasons.
-I think any suspension piece should be strong enough to jack the car up from (many mechanics assume this)
-The reduction of threaded rod ends would get rid of failure points.
-Using rubber bushings would keep the suspension from rattling when the rod ends wear out (most of those kits come with crap rod ends).

I say go for it. :thumbup:
 

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Lost in the 60's
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I have a four bar system front and rear on my coupe and I love it. Yes there are a lot of adjustable joint ends...but without them it would be very hard to align it. I have had no problems with mine. If it was good enough for Pete and Jake...its good enough for me.
 

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Philippines Cowboy
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First, a Panhard is the same as a track bar. Back in the fifties, anyone associated with oval racing would call it a track bar, but the SCCA types called it a Panhard. Now, with "cross-breeding between the species," the terms are used interchangeably. (Well, the SCCA types might still refuse to call it a track bar, but they at least know what you're talking about.)

For a street car, you might consider Art Morrison's 4BAR (not 4LINK) kit. Looks good and there's no binding. Still has the Heim joints and, if anyone places a jack under the middle of a bar, there'd probably be a failure, but it's a reasonable choice.

But, any of the 4link kits will also work, so long as you adjust the link pairs to be parallel. If they're not parallel, the linkage will bind while cornering and that's the really big concern which discourages many from using the 4link on the street. Unless you enjoy scraping the rear bumper as you launch, DO NOT adjust the links to also be parallel to the ground. Adjust them to be angled up from the rear to control squat. An angle with a tangent equal to the center of gravity height divided by the wheelbase will completely eliminate squat.
 

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If you HAVE to go 4 link check out these guys...
http://www.suicidedoors.com/
They have some VERY serious kits, tons of parts and decent prices. I have had good service also. I will be using these on the Frt lower control arms I am fabbing for my Astro van.

You won't buy the bushings and sleeves for 10 bucks anywhere else let alone the tubing...
Mark
 

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Sloe Lurner
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys!!!!!

I'm probably going to run with TCI's kit..BillyShope says there is no difference between a panhard and track link. I was told that a panhard is connected from frame to axle and a track bar is a diagonal bar across the links in a z type angle. hope to have it put together before end of summer. ANybody here going to Goodguys show in Loveland Colo??
 

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If you angle the top bars.....like the ones I have shown below.....no pan-hard bar needed......This is my 32 3W ...under construction......The coil springs are at the power coaters...

My 32 roadster is the same exact way.


 

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Philippines Cowboy
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English is a living language and definitions change. In the fifties, there were no diagonal pieces across the links and track bar and Panhard were interchangeable. What you're telling me is that "track bar" now has a different meaning. I have no problem with that, but, when you're talking to racers my age, don't be surprised if there's a little confusion. I'll try to learn the new lingo, but I still refer to the refrigerator as the icebox half the time.
 

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DV8 said:
I'm probably going to run with TCI's kit..BillyShope says there is no difference between a panhard and track link. I was told that a panhard is connected from frame to axle and a track bar is a diagonal bar across the links in a z type angle. hope to have it put together before end of summer. ANybody here going to Goodguys show in Loveland Colo??
I wouldn't run a "track bar" that goes from link to link. The reason is that it will put a side load on the trailing links rod end from side or cornering loads. The rod end would be loaded in the weakest way possible - The threaded shank in bending and the bearing axially. Whatever you want to call it it should run from the frame to the axle.
 

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Philippines Cowboy
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Right on, Triaged! I got caught up in the definitions and let that get by me. If you use the TCI kit, fab a Panhard out of the material for the "track bar."
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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4 bar and 4 link aren't the same around here.

4 link has 4 hiems that attach to the frame. each link is independate of another. Wether it be triangled or not.

A 4 bar car has the links attached to each other. They attach so the upper and lowers are as one and attach to the frame as one.
 

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Philippines Cowboy
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johnsongrass1 said:
4 bar and 4 link aren't the same....
Amen!! Preach it, brother! A triangulated 4BAR isn't really possible.

Johnson, do you know of anyone...other than Art Morrison...that offers a 4bar kit? I kind of favor the 4bar concept. I show, on one of the pages in my blog:

http://home.earthlink.net/~whshope

how to adjust a 4bar to do a better job than the average 4link.
 

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What DV8 describes as a 'track bar' would be called a track locator on most drag strips around the world. Holy dog food Billy, I'm getting as pedantic as you!
Track locators were a cheap fix on ladder bar suspensions - strip only and not for BIG hp cars. Most pro stocks run a watts linkage.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Is your Watts link the same as my Z link(Upper bar forward while the lower bar rearward)or do your referr to what I know as a Jacobs ladder?(modified Watts link)
 

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I have never heard a Watt's link called anything else when used as a track locating device. This is what I think of as a "Watt's link" (note it is capitalized and has an apostrophe because it is the name of the guy that invented it).

Edit: As a side note I have found that the travel will be for the most part vertical for as much travel as the vertical bar is tall.

 

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Philippines Cowboy
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Oh, boy! More definitions! A "Jacob's ladder" consists of two straight, bare wires that are situated in close proximity and gradually diverge. When high voltage is applied, a spark jumps the smallest gap and then travels along the diverging space until the voltage can no longer maintain it and it disappears. A new spark then appears at the closest point and the process is repeated. It has no practical value, but its visual effect is often used in horror movies. Most recently, it was used in the comedy spoof, "Young Frankenstein." It is named in reference to the vision seen by Jacob as described in the book of Genesis (Chapter 28).
 
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