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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, I recently got a hold of a 400 that needed to be rebuilt, The engine is going back farily stock, Next Monday its going to be sent in for a Acid Bath and a bore, Im saving up for The Balanced Rotating Assembly, Once I get the money for it, and a Holley Double pumper, Those will be the only Aftermarket parts put into it when I rebuild it, maybe a small cam to.

Would this setup put me around 450hp ? Im actuallly trying to hit 500hp, Im sure this will get close, But I was hoping someone could Run a desktop Dyno.

To start things Off,
406 Sbc, (.03 over)
A 750 cfm Holley Double pumper with a 2 corner Idle system
A Weiand Team G Intake Manifold (3000-8500)
A Summit Hydraulc Flat tappet Lift. .555/.555 Dur @.5inch .260/.260
Dart Iron Heads with a 64 Chamber, 2.08 valves and a 5 angle Valve Job, 230cc Intake, 75cc Exhaust
Shortie Headers with 1 5/8 primaries
Flat top pistons
A Eagle Balanced (external) Rotating Assembly, with forged Rods, Hypereutectic Pistons, and a Cast steel 3.75 stroke Crank
1.7 Roller Rockers
A capacitive Disharge Box, with a rev limiter set at 6000Rpm, ( does tthe Summit Capaicitve Dishcarge Ignition box go to a HEI) ?
Thanks
 

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What are your intentions?? How "racy" do you want it?? What is your compression ratio target

I'd buy a rotating assembly from Scat, Eagle has too many quality issues, and get forged pistons, hypers tend to explode if they run into detonation. Scat parts and Forged pistons will handle 7000+ rpm.

Heads are too big, those 230's are intended for high compression solid roller or solid flat tappet combos, and high rpm. You would be better served with a 215cc head.

Cam is BIG for a hydraulic flat tappet, it needs 11-1+ compression and a 4000 stall to show its stuff, 260° @ .050 is good and big for a solid flat tappet, and I would go to a solid if this is to be a serious street/strip effort.

The shorty headers aren't helping at all, and the hydraulic lifters won't like the 1.7 rockers very well and could lead to float unless valvespring pressure is near max a hydraulic lifter can withstand and it will still be walking a tightrope. It is a risky choice to get everything correct for the 1.7's, 1.6s are a better choice with 1.5's on the exhaust.

The Summit ignition can be used with the HEI distributor just fine.Scat rotator, solid cam, and long headers will get you 530+ hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
400sbc

Well some of the parts are nessecary, and yes there will be a 4000 stall, but the headers have to stay. THis motor is going into a S10......Erik, Can you suggest some parts to get me To 500hp ? And my bad, I meant 1.6 Roller Rockers......
 

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I see you posted about an s-10. I am looking at putting one together. How much room is there for a small block or maybe even a big block. What changes will have to be made to fit motor in there?
 

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s-10

The engine compartment in my dads with the engine installed still looks to big for the motor to me. The engine looks factory. We cut a couple nice round holes just big enough for a socket to get at a couple bellhousing bolts and used rubber grommets to plug due to my dads age and climbing around to get to stuff. Easier for him, but not completely necessery. Turbo 350 trans. 500 horse 355 chevy small block, 4.10 gears traction bars. He's got hoosier slicks and it still gets all over itself leaving the line. Go cart on steroids really cool and fast combo. If I ever get out of the trans am's I'll go big block s-10 combo.
 

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I just put a 406 together. I got it in the car (73 Nova SS) last week but not started yet. Should be a pretty good combo.

1970 4 bolt sb 400 .030 over
750 Holley d.p.
RPM air-gap
Pro-Filer 210 cc heads, with 64 cc chambers, 2.08/1.6 valves, .650 max lift springs & 1.6 roller rockers
Lunati VooDoo Solid cam #60141;2600-6800rpm 241/249 .520"/.540" 110/106, with the 1.6 rockers, lift is a bit more than listed.
10.8:1 flat top SRP pistons
5.7 4340 rods
Scat 9000 series crank
Muncie M-20 4 spd
4.10 gear
 

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Smittydpd said:
I just put a 406 together. I got it in the car (73 Nova SS) last week but not started yet. Should be a pretty good combo.

1970 4 bolt sb 400 .030 over
750 Holley d.p.
RPM air-gap
Pro-Filer 210 cc heads, with 64 cc chambers, 2.08/1.6 valves, .650 max lift springs & 1.6 roller rockers
Lunati VooDoo Solid cam #60141;2600-6800rpm 241/249 .520"/.540" 110/106, with the 1.6 rockers, lift is a bit more than listed.
10.8:1 flat top SRP pistons
5.7 4340 rods
Scat 9000 series crank
Muncie M-20 4 spd
4.10 gear
Sounds like a pretty good combo. Watch out when using a sticky tire, if you hook it up good it won't take long to shred that Muncie, you are about 125 ft.lbs over its torque rating. On the street will probably be fine, at the strip you are rolling the dice. You should make 550 hp pretty easily.
 

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plenty of room in a s-10, the only place I have had a problem was with the crossmember. Just buy the full kit from summit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-99067/?image=large

This will save you a lot of time, but you can do a lot yourself.
modification to the firewall is also a huge help. good luck my build is still not finished but its putting me in the poor house right now :(
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittydpd
I just put a 406 together. I got it in the car (73 Nova SS) last week but not started yet. Should be a pretty good combo.

1970 4 bolt sb 400 .030 over
750 Holley d.p.
RPM air-gap
Pro-Filer 210 cc heads, with 64 cc chambers, 2.08/1.6 valves, .650 max lift springs & 1.6 roller rockers
Lunati VooDoo Solid cam #60141;2600-6800rpm 241/249 .520"/.540" 110/106, with the 1.6 rockers, lift is a bit more than listed.
10.8:1 flat top SRP pistons
5.7 4340 rods
Scat 9000 series crank
Muncie M-20 4 spd
4.10 gear


ericnova72 said:
Sounds like a pretty good combo. Watch out when using a sticky tire, if you hook it up good it won't take long to shred that Muncie, you are about 125 ft.lbs over its torque rating. On the street will probably be fine, at the strip you are rolling the dice. You should make 550 hp pretty easily.
Thats actually more than I thought. I'm gonna have to plan on shreddin the Muncie then. There is no way I can keep my foot out of it!!
 

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Smittydpd said:
Thats actually more than I thought. I'm gonna have to plan on shreddin the Muncie then. There is no way I can keep my foot out of it!!
You might consider a G-Force T5. Here's a blurb from their website....
"the G-Force Street 5-Speed kit will handle roughly 600 hp or 500 ft-lb. of torque in a 3300 lb. vehicle running drag radials at the track with a moderate clutch upgrade."
 

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Smittydpd said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittydpd
I just put a 406 together. I got it in the car (73 Nova SS) last week but not started yet. Should be a pretty good combo.

1970 4 bolt sb 400 .030 over
750 Holley d.p.
RPM air-gap
Pro-Filer 210 cc heads, with 64 cc chambers, 2.08/1.6 valves, .650 max lift springs & 1.6 roller rockers
Lunati VooDoo Solid cam #60141;2600-6800rpm 241/249 .520"/.540" 110/106, with the 1.6 rockers, lift is a bit more than listed.
10.8:1 flat top SRP pistons
5.7 4340 rods
Scat 9000 series crank
Muncie M-20 4 spd
4.10 gear




Thats actually more than I thought. I'm gonna have to plan on shreddin the Muncie then. There is no way I can keep my foot out of it!!
I built this same engine years ago with just a few minor differences. I used mildly ported Sportsman II heads 2.055 valves, a 260/266° @ .050 Crower solid at roughly the same lift and the same 1.6 rocker, a Vic Jr and 800 Holley. With 4.56 gears, 3400 stall, and "cheater" DOT legal American Racer IMCA series dirt track rubber (L-60/15, 27+"tall, 9" wide) it would pull the front tires 4" and run 11.40's in an all steel 3500 lbs w/driver '72 Nova. Drove it to and from the track. You are going to have more torque than you can deal with on small tires. I was always looking for ways to kill some low end and trade it for more top end.
 

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ericnova72 said:
I built this same engine years ago with just a few minor differences. I used mildly ported Sportsman II heads 2.055 valves, a 260/266° @ .050 Crower solid at roughly the same lift and the same 1.6 rocker, a Vic Jr and 800 Holley. With 4.56 gears, 3400 stall, and "cheater" DOT legal American Racer IMCA series dirt track rubber (L-60/15, 27+"tall, 9" wide) it would pull the front tires 4" and run 11.40's in an all steel 3500 lbs w/driver '72 Nova. Drove it to and from the track. You are going to have more torque than you can deal with on small tires. I was always looking for ways to kill some low end and trade it for more top end.

Sweet, i waas just hoping for a touch of daylight under the tires.. Now if I can just get this clutch linkage thing figured out. I went from stock clutch to centerforce dual friction with a new throwout bearing. Put it all back together and now the rod btwn the clutch fork and the clutch z-bar is about 2-3 inches too short. Can't figure out why. I did install the throwout bearing the right way. I check'd and double ck'd. I hope I dont have to pull it all out to triple check. Any other ideas? I heard someplace that the spring fingers are set deeper into that clutch than stock. A longer throwout bearing was suggested.....
 

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ericnova72 said:
I built this same engine years ago with just a few minor differences. I used mildly ported Sportsman II heads 2.055 valves, a 260/266° @ .050 Crower solid at roughly the same lift and the same 1.6 rocker, a Vic Jr and 800 Holley. With 4.56 gears, 3400 stall, and "cheater" DOT legal American Racer IMCA series dirt track rubber (L-60/15, 27+"tall, 9" wide) it would pull the front tires 4" and run 11.40's in an all steel 3500 lbs w/driver '72 Nova. Drove it to and from the track. You are going to have more torque than you can deal with on small tires. I was always looking for ways to kill some low end and trade it for more top end.
is it possible to lift tires with a similar setup but on a hydraulic lifter cam?
 

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Smittydpd said:
Sweet, i waas just hoping for a touch of daylight under the tires.. Now if I can just get this clutch linkage thing figured out. I went from stock clutch to centerforce dual friction with a new throwout bearing. Put it all back together and now the rod btwn the clutch fork and the clutch z-bar is about 2-3 inches too short. Can't figure out why. I did install the throwout bearing the right way. I check'd and double ck'd. I hope I dont have to pull it all out to triple check. Any other ideas? I heard someplace that the spring fingers are set deeper into that clutch than stock. A longer throwout bearing was suggested.....
You need the longer throw-out bearing. Even if you make the pushrod 2-3" longer, the fork geometry inside the bellhousing will be off, leading to problems with clutch release and feel.
 
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