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· More for Less Racer
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22,051 Posts
Agree, go to the aftermarket block. Even a BluePrint or Speedmaster block would be a better start.
You can truss the mains of the stock block up all you want, still doesn't prevent splitting a cylinder wall.

Plus, at this point you don't even know if your "never disassembled" stock 400 is any good....I once had to magnaflux check 3 blocks to find one that wasn't cracked (400 SBC).

i know of someone putting 1300-1500 hp through two of the Speedmaster blocks, for several years now(Multiple nitrous stages, and now Twin Turbos (Wuhan war whistles). 406 and 421 cubic inch.

After you get the block situation squared away...
1.6 intake rockers....the AFR heads don't need that 10° duration split and the intake side will like the increased lift and a couple degrees of effective duration @ the valve the higher rocker ratio gets you.,
A better intake than the Team G....Team G is a great intake, but for smaller motors....the runner cross section is the smallest of all the major race single plane intakes. Works best on 327-350" race engines, and street/strip 383's.

IMO, if you do decide to go forward with the stock block, don't bother with a forged crank and fancy rods, since they will all get destroyed when the block fails.
Scat cast crank and Scat Pro Comp 7/16" bolt rod or Eagle FSI 7/16" bolt rod. ($350 level)
 

· More for Less Racer
Joined
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22,051 Posts
Eric, out of curiosity I looked at the Speedmaster blocks, and noticed that they cost as much as (or more than) a Dart SHP.
Are there any advantages with a Speedmaster in the same price range as an SHP ?
The Speedmaster is a close copy of the Little M.....whether it is as strong as the Little M, I don't know.
I just ordered one myself, during the Black Friday sale they had...40% off.
We shall see how good it is....but I know of a couple people using them without problems.
Just got the shipper tracking info yesterday, shows it in transit.
 
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