Damn, 40% off is alot at those prices!
I did almost exactly what you are thinking of doing and I regret it. Sell the 400 and buy an aftermarket block.Hello there. I've got a complete small block Chevy top end off an engine that I threw a rod through. I am now entertaining the thought of another build. The parts I have include...
•AFR 220 Eliminators, 1110 competition ported heads, 8027 spring upgrade, titanium retainers, 65cc
•Crower stainless steel full roller rockers, 1.5 ratio
•AFR stud girdles
•Comp Cams 300BR-6 solid roller, 260/270 @.050, .630/.630, 106° lsa
•Comp Cams roller lifters
•Weiand Team G 7531 single plane manifold with 2" raised plenum, port matched
•One complete virgin Chevy 400 2-bolt engine (never disassembled)
•Rotating assembly... to be determined
I'm looking to build a high compression 406 cu in full race engine for nostalgia bracket racing.
-My first option is to have the Chevy 400 block machined for 4-bolt splayed main caps, punch it out to 4.155, and drill steam holes in the AFR heads.
-Next option is to purchase an aftermarket block and have the required machine work completed
If this was your build...
-Which option would you choose?
-Which aftermarket block would you choose?
-What are the pros and cons of each?
You'd be one of the few that has any good words for Speedmaster blocks.Speedmaster block would be a better start.
i know of someone putting 1300-1500 hp through two of the Speedmaster blocks, for several years now(Multiple nitrous stages, and now Twin Turbos (Wuhan war whistles). 406 and 421 cubic inch.
Thank you. I dialed about 5.30/130mph. It went a quick 5.26,,I held a couple numbers often as bracket racing goes. I launched real soft at 2200 on 1st chip,,then it flashed up to the 5000 stall,,and finish line at 7100/7200. Powerglide. I only ran Lakeland FL with it while they where open, 15 minutes from my house. When they closed(about 2013) I parked it. I scaled about 1371 empty,,then I added a tiny radiator/water pump as I got better and made more rounds closer together each time,,, and ladder bar to the weight. I myself weigh 150,plus 3 gallons fuel it used per run. Probably was 1580/1600lbs at very end. With the motor,,everything was a discount purchase,,heads where new/but $400 on racing junk,,pistons on sale SRC,crank was a online price match at $500,,bearings/ street Kings I hand chamfered,, rings 5/64 ductile though, valves Competition Products .....It was all just to see if I could build it at the $2500 mark and beat my brothers $20,000 upgrades on his nova. I blew the budget when the stock crank came back from shop cut too far on loose side(.004-.0045"") and I couldn't get tolerances I wanted...so I broke out and bought the new eagle crank. I went 5-6 rounds on my best night for a semi final finish. It was a blast to drive and decent consistent(when we went ladder bar). Youtube 'Lakeland dragster' to see this motors very first hit. Defeated a BBC dragster 540 with aluminum heads LOLNice dragster! And very cool engine build on a tight budget. What's your dial-in? If you ever run it in the Northeast, let me know.
Solid run! Gear that bad boy for the 1/4 mile and it would compliment competition in NETO/C very nicely...Thank you. I dialed about 5.30/130mph. It went a quick 5.26...Youtube 'Lakeland dragster' to see this motors very first hit. Defeated a BBC dragster 540 with aluminum heads LOL
WeI did almost exactly what you are thinking of doing and I regret it. Sell the 400 and buy an aftermarket block.
Hey ChopperScott, sorry about the delay, busy busy. My answer to your second question ( which block?) would be … it depends. Your first message said you wanted to “nostalgia” race. To me that would have to be an all GM car. I would opt for a new version of the GM 400. Take a look at what Scoggins-Dickey has to offer on their web site. New 400s, iron, aluminum, raised cam etc. If none of that matters to you then shop for the best deal you can find. All I’m saying is if you are looking for more that 550hp don’t waist your time with the old 400s.I did almost exactly what you are thinking of doing and I regret it. Sell the 400 and buy an aftermarket block.
Well there you go. You may have just answered your own question. Good luck whichever way you decide to go.My last two builds have been done with a Dart SHP block. I had one as a 4.155 bore and now a 4.00 bore regular 350 build. I have always used the same machine shop and I one bought a new GM block and by the time I got stuff done to it and after now having done two SHP blocks I have had no more then $500 to $600 dollars at the most of a cost difference between the two blocks. And that was getting extra stuff done to my Dart blocks that I did not have done on the GM block. They have always been spot on for me and the massive thick cylinders are really nice and the splayed mains and super thick.