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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
406ci in the making.. 56k warning ;)

The donor, my old Trans Am.. Had it for 14 years stored in the garage.. Decided to disassemble it because it needed an inspection and she was too modified for that..





 

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Discussion Starter #3
Next rad..




Clean inside, only had like 1000km on it since the last rebuild..


Recurved Distributor













 

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Discussion Starter #4


509 casting, the best alloy to bild these 406ci


Lifters are out..



Man, some are badly damaged, anybody knows what went wrong there?


Bad lifter


Good lifter


Removed the pistons


Crank pistons and cylinders are pretty clean, the crank will later be reused for a stroker ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dual exhaust that'll keep this beast sort of quiet.. The red is from the old Trans Am paint job, these are alu exhaust, i'll buff 'em before installation :)


Alot of spare parts to deal with :drunk:




Now this will go in my newest Trans Am..


See more pics here:http://406ci.monchar.com/


Thanx for your time, advices are welcome and i'll keep this page updated as I keep on building it.. Expected, 500+ HP and Tork!

Vic :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
stroker_SS said:
So, what are the plans with this thing.

I'm looking for the right heads, I want alot of cam lift, a rough idle and not so much rpms, ain't mucho meat in these siameses so i'll keep it under 6000 rpm.. Once I find a good set of heads i'll build around 'em, I just disasembled it this week-end so it's all new to me and it is my first complete build, i ain't comming here telling people how to do it, i could use some tips ;)
 

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Why would you take the crank for a 350 stroker and lose cubes?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Collector's block! There's a 1 missing on the castin #, it should read 3951509 ;)




So, All I'm left to do for now is to wash it and sandblast it before getting it worked on.. :thumbup:
 

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509 is a good block. How much do you have to spend on a set of heads?

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #14
firestone said:
509 is a good block. How much do you have to spend on a set of heads?

Adam
$1200 maybe, i'm looking for opportunities but only till april, then i'll have to dig deeper in my wallet..
 

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Any idea what kind of cam you want to run (hyd/solid flat tappet/roller)?

Adam
 

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As the cam rotates, a tappet follows the outside of the cam lobe. This tappet is raised up by the lobe and pushes against the pushrod. The tappet can have a flat face that glides on a very thin layer of oil on top of the cam, or it can have a roller which rolls instead of sliding. This rolling reduces friction and allows for a steeper ramp of the cam profile. The steeper ramp in itsself increases performance by reducing the time spent at lower lift. Also, it allows for greater overall lift of the cam. A hydraulic cam has a small spring in it and is also filled with oil. This acts like a shock absorber for the cam and valve train. The benefit is that you do not have to readjust your cam once you set it. The bad side is that you dont have the valve control that you do with a solid lifter with no spring or fluid inside. Because of this the solid tappet will make more power than the hydraulic tappet, but you have to adjust them fairly often. Hydraulic and solid flat tappets are pretty cheap, you can get a cam and lifters for $150-$200. Hydraulic and solid roller cams make more hp, and provide for a more relyable system as far as longevity goes, but cost around $600-$700 for the cam and lifters.

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #18
firestone said:
As the cam rotates, a tappet follows the outside of the cam lobe. This tappet is raised up by the lobe and pushes against the pushrod. The tappet can have a flat face that glides on a very thin layer of oil on top of the cam, or it can have a roller which rolls instead of sliding. This rolling reduces friction and allows for a steeper ramp of the cam profile. The steeper ramp in itsself increases performance by reducing the time spent at lower lift. Also, it allows for greater overall lift of the cam. A hydraulic cam has a small spring in it and is also filled with oil. This acts like a shock absorber for the cam and valve train. The benefit is that you do not have to readjust your cam once you set it. The bad side is that you dont have the valve control that you do with a solid lifter with no spring or fluid inside. Because of this the solid tappet will make more power than the hydraulic tappet, but you have to adjust them fairly often. Hydraulic and solid flat tappets are pretty cheap, you can get a cam and lifters for $150-$200. Hydraulic and solid roller cams make more hp, and provide for a more relyable system as far as longevity goes, but cost around $600-$700 for the cam and lifters.

Adam

Well, thanx for that Adam, I'll prolly go for a hydraulic roller, that'll fit my needs and long term stability.. I like the funny clicks you hear with the solids but I don't intend to spend time adjusting 'em on a regularg basis, even though I only use my car on sunny days, I still use it as much as I can and being in Montreal the car's already stored from october to may so that does'nt give me much time to use it to start with.. I don't want to spend it adjusting these rockers ;)
 

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For 1200 you can get a nice set of heads, but if you could swing another $300 and get the new eliminator AFR street 195's that is what I would recommend. These heads along wtih a properly matched hyd roller cam would easily get you 500-550 hp.

Here are the heads:
http://www.airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php

I would recommend something like the comp XR288HR (236 242 @.050 .520 .540 lift 110 lsa along with a set of 1.6 rockers which would take the intake lift to .550 and exhaust to .570) I would also recommend the edelbrock performer RPM intake. This should pull to around 6000 RPM, and make 500-550 hp.


Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #20
firestone said:
For 1200 you can get a nice set of heads, but if you could swing another $300 and get the new eliminator AFR street 195's that is what I would recommend. These heads along wtih a properly matched hyd roller cam would easily get you 500-550 hp.

Here are the heads:
http://www.airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php

I would recommend something like the comp XR288HR (236 242 @.050 .520 .540 lift 110 lsa along with a set of 1.6 rockers which would take the intake lift to .550 and exhaust to .570) I would also recommend the edelbrock performer RPM intake. This should pull to around 6000 RPM, and make 500-550 hp.


Adam
I take note! Though, $1500 Canadian or American ;)

What do you think of these:

Vortec Heads combo
-1996 Vortec heads from crate engine, unused (except for brake-in at GM) with valve job & new seals
-Edelbrock performer rpm vortec intake
-ARP head bolts
-Fel-pro head gaskets
-Timing set & cover
-Crane cam "circle track" 280H 280 gross duration, 480 lift, 108 lobe separation (IIRC)
-New pushrods and hydraulic lifters


I can get this kit for like $1200..

And see here:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/t...hevrolet_small_block_power_combos/index5.html

With a more agressive roller cam, could do the job?
 
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