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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

I have a '68 vette 4 spd manual that has a 327 with a 13:1 compression. It was modified in '85 by some old school guy that was in drag racing. I want to put a 572 engine in it :mwink: .

I have a 427 Tall Deck engine sitting in the garage. The block is in excellent shape with has std bores and you can still see the cylinder honing marks. I want to bore it from 4.25 to 4.5 and dump the std crank for a 4.5" crankshaft. Probably run around 10:1 compression. Also I want to go with aluminum heads, water pump, intake, high cam, etc. I want a screamer engine that has more top end RPM that can rev easily around 6000 rpm.

My questions:
Boring the block, can I safely do that or will I have overheating issues with the car running too hot?
What aluminum heads are good to with? Is this one okay? What other can I get for around $1k? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BBC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
How about this kit off ebay that includes the crank, pistons, rod and bearings for around $1,700? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BBC-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
What cam is best to go with? I have no clue on that but my car is a 4 speed manual and I would like a high cam. Something like in the current 327 engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T-CG7FwoDo&feature=channel_page
Should I get a higher compression or lower? I am in AL and I think 93 oct is the maximum you can get.

Or, do you have any other suggestions of what other better bore/stroke combo.

Thank you,
Gio
 

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I think you have champagne tastes but a beer budget. Getting that large a stroke engine to do that kind of rpm costs some real bucks and skills. It takes many years of experience to build such and engine. Reading about it in a magazine does not qualify for experience.
 

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Chevrolet4x4s said:
I wouldn't recommend boring it .250".

The general consensus is to avoid pro comp heads like the plague.

Shane
X2 what Shane said.
I think the max oversize I would attempt would be 0.100,and then you would want the block sonic tested for cylinder wall thickness.
Guy
 

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MOST of the TD truck blocks will go .125 over and I have seen some filled blocks bigger.

Now the issue of the Pro Comp heads... I have sold and used several sets of the "320" bbc heads. NO PROBLEMS!!! For the price, I have found them to be very good heads. The last set was a far better casting than another new set of GM performance (Edelbrock) bbc's.

Yes they are a bit lighter.

All I have had to do is break the heli-coil tabs off the threads that intercept the intake ports and check the valve seat cuts. Installed heights are very good and so far no reports of broken stud bosses like the first generation GM's.

Only complaint I've had was some rough casting flash on the inside, by the valve train area. But, the Edelbrocks are close to the same in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I lowered the rev limit from over 7 k to around 6 k ;)

What is a good piston, rod, crank combo and a better cu in? Sorry, I come from german cars so forgive me with all the questions :).

G
 

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My question is how well is that tall deck block going to fit in that car? Not only are those blocks taller than the factory installed big blocks were but they are also going to be wider. Is there room in the Corvette for that and are you really sure you want to run the risk of hacking up the engine compartment in a 68 Corvette?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Blazin72 said:
My question is how well is that tall deck block going to fit in that car? Not only are those blocks taller than the factory installed big blocks were but they are also going to be wider. Is there room in the Corvette for that and are you really sure you want to run the risk of hacking up the engine compartment in a 68 Corvette?
I am not concerned about that but thanks for bringing it out. It is a tight fit and I will need to use manual brake booster since the head will interfere with the powerbooster. Also I will need custom headers. My car has a L88 hood that gives me additional 5" clearance and I may need to do some fiberglass mods but that is fine. My father alway said, where's will power is a way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all your help. I guess I won't be building a 572 after all since I don't have the right block to start with.

So, I have a great block, forged stock 427T crank (3.74"?) and 4 ring pistons that are no good for high rev applications.

If I keep the crank and standard 4.25" bore, can I use standard (3 ring) 427 stock pistons with 6.535" rods? Or should I get custom 427 pistons?

With this setup, what is the gain I can expect with better flowing heads vs my current stock tall deck cast iron heads? I will post a pic tonight to get some of your input, I am not sure if its open or closed chambers.
 

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More for Less Racer
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Yes, you can use the standard 3 ring 427 car piston with a longer 6.535" rod, and there are various strokers that can be done with 4.0" and 4.25" cranks also. Almost any passenger car large oval port or rectangel port or an aftermarket head is better than the small port truck pieces you have.
 

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My name is Jerry. I have read your post and think I can help you with this project. First some background: I owned and sold a machine in 2004 ******. My father still to this day owns a full machine shop *********. I have personally built professional racing engines for folks all over the country and my specialty is in fitment for large stroke engines. I have a lot of hands on experience carving blocks out like a turkey to fit large stroke crankshafts that were never suppose to fit and performing other clearancing modifications to keep .800+ lift camshafts from hitting connecting rods in the four troublesome cylinders within these same mega stroke engine combinations. The raised cam tunnel blocks, small base circle camshafts, and the 3D stroker design rods have helped some, but things still hit, causing that dreaded clank and then the lockup during the mockup. I have been out of the shop since 2004 and I now manage an interstate semi trucking company and sell ****************** I just helped a guy in Australia last week with fitment issues. He wanted a 396ci small block buy was about to settle for a 383 with his Dart block because he did not know how to get all the parts to fit, or if they even could. I helped him with the information he needed ********* I’d love to work with you and help you determine what parts would be the best fit for your project, and your budget. Sometimes it is better to buy an assembled balanced short block or long block and just sell what you already have at a swap meet or on Ebay-sometimes the machine work and piecing the items together is just too costly and too time consuming. ********Let me know your thoughts, it would be fun to chat. I am not sure if I can offer you my offsite e-mail or not. I am new here and will need to read up on rules. Nevertheless, I will try to check this site's mailbox regularly. Take care and have fun with the Vette!
Jerry
 

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Jerry.....you really need to read the rules.
Don't advertise your business. If you are affiliated with an automotive business, you may not post contact information for that business on public board posts, in your custom user title, or in your avatar. Business contact information includes, but is not limited to: physical addresses, phone numbers, email addresses, and URLs. Stating the name of your business is allowed, as long as the name of your business is not identical to any business contact information. If you are affiliated with an automotive business website, you may post that website's URL in your user profile page, and then you may refer people to your user profile page if your services are relevant to their question. For a more in-depth explanation of this policy, please see our business affiliation page. http://www.hotrodders.com/help/board/business.html

We also have rules on aggressive promotion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Around here machine shop is cheap, I mean dirt cheap and the work is top notch. My uncle in law will assemble the short block and for free. I did my research and for $1500 will cover the cost of pistons, crank, rods, cam, bearings, freeze plugs, machine shop labor and paint. Another $1-1.5K for aluminum heads and I will be rolling. :cool:
 

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Henery,

Good evening to you! I have read the rules and will be sure not to post my business contact information in posts by name, link, or avitar.

You do not have to worry about this, you have my word. I can see you run a tight ship here! Have a wondeful evening.

Jerry :thumbup:
 

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Jerry, parts of your post are blatant advertising and/or offering commercial services and materials for profit. I've edited those out, you should contact the member in a PM or advertise your products and services in the Classifieds Henry Highrise mentioned.

Thanks :thumbup:
 
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