[sacrod]

Thank you all for your input. I really appreciate having access to all of your knowledge. I finally resolved this issue and I thought you might be interested in the cure. It turns out that this 3310-1 has a power valve in the secondaries (kind of superfluous). I removed and plugged using a Mr. Gasket plug, and the carb now functions properly revving nicely (even under a load) to 5500 RPM. In as much as the power valve accounts for 8 jet sizes, it was "washing out the plugs" above 4400 RPM or so (too rich). I couldn't imagine that this carb was jetted too rich with the factory jets for a 375 Horse 396 which is where the 3310 originated, but it was the power valve's contribution. Any way, thanks a lot for all of your ideas. I'm greatful to you all for your ideas.

[ March 21, 2002: Message edited by: sacrod ]</p>

 

[johnnymopar]

i'm not an engine expert by any means..

although your rpm range does seem low, i know that hydraulic cams cannot rev as high as mechanical cams, don't know why.

This may have something to do with your problem.

JB

 

[johnnymopar]

I just thought of something else.

Maybe an experienced engine builder can say for sure, but did you change your valve springs at all? I'm just thinking with a heavier cam maybe you need stronger springs?

Just an idea.

JB

 

[liquid_larry]

I would check fuel pressure for starters.Its quick easy and will eliminate or confirm if fuel delivery is a problem.

 

[KULTULZ]

That's the order I would go with;

[*] Fuel pressure and volume delivery

[*] Valve float (weak springs) especially if it begins to break down)

[*] Make sure the advance mechanism is not frozen in the distributor (also spring(s) broken

[*] Substitute a known good DELCO module in place of the Petronix and check the results.


If the advance mechanism is frozen and requires overhaul, have it setup on a distributor machine.

[ March 04, 2002: Message edited by: KULTULZ ]</p>

 

[mustang66maniac]

how about you buy a 460????

 

[gbovaird]

With the transmission in park and the engine running you say it wont biuld revs past 4400 or so. Does it make any sounds or start to run rough when this happens? If so I would check the incoming voltage that supplys the module. You will want a good voltage . If you can get a meter and check your voltage where it goes into the module and monitor it while you run it up to or past 4400rpm.Check your fuel pressure while you run it up to or past 4400 rpm .If the motor is brand new, who installed the cam was it put in and degreed properly? Who first fired the motor? Was the cam "broken in" properly , you may have wore some of the lobes down . A hydraulic cam ( flat tappet) like the one you are probably using has to be broken in, when the engine is first started. You will need a dial indicator to check that one.How long has the engine run? If it is real fresh still the oil should still be clean looking . If it is really black already that could be a sign the cam is worn also.
Hope this was of some help.
Good luck

 

[hot57]

Don't forget the simple things, like is your linkage not allowing wide open throttle? total advance set? suffient fuel and pressure?

 

[sammcc11]

Is there enough Fuel getting to the Engine to run above 4400?
Check that the Fuel Pump can deliver enough Fuel to run higher and that the Fuel pipes allow enough Fuel to flow through them, and that they don't go through any sharp bends as this will slow the Fuel down and may even cause Turbulant flow.

hope this help

 

[Nasty Nova]

I may be wrong, but your cam duration and lift seem to be awfully mild for your 454 build-up. The cam's top-end rev limit is probably at 4400-4500 rpm's. I imagine that it has loads of low-end torque with this cam. I would modestly suggest, at a minimum, 310-320 duration with a .600+ lift. Call (also on-line) Herbert Performance tech line, and they will put you onto the right cam for your combo. I've had great results from their solid cams. Good luck.

 

[peglegrice]

Kultutz(?)
Get on the Y-Block chat site and ask, there are guys there who like thise thingies. We even had a Tri-Power Turnpike Cruiser at the Y Block Nats in Columbus last year. Went pretty good!

 

[Hey Ho]

The flywheel governs your RPM. Your stats do not include this info. Are you using a "stock" F/W? Has it been changed? Is it now aluminum? Let me know.

 

[BLK70Z28]

Originally posted by sacrod:
<strong>I have a 454 chev with a edelbrock performer RPM a 3310-1 780 CFM Carb, HEI with Pertronix Moddule and Coil, A Crower 290 Hydraulic .510 lift, iron oval port heads with stock valves and large exhaust manifolds with 2 1/2 in. pipes and turbo mufflers. I cannot get this engine (all new) to rev past 4400 RPM or so. I have been all over the map with the timing (initial, mechanical and vacuum)and I'm sure that the secondaries on the Holley are opening. Does anyone have any ideas Please.</strong><hr></blockquote>

 

[brief madness]

I sort of agree with NASTY NOVA. I have a 67 Mustang (sorry Nasty Nova) with a Crane hydraulic cam with roller rockers. The spec sheet for this cam shows operating cruise rpm at 3200-3800 with maximum rpm at 5000 and valve float at 6500. I have 10-1 pistons, 650 Holley vacumm secondaries, Edelbrock streetmaster intake (old version of performer) MSD6A box and full length headers. My rear end is a 3.25 posi with a toploader 4-speed stick. This car has loads of low end torque that I cannot get to the ground efficiently. I only rev the motor to about 4000-4500 before shifting as staying on the gas past 4500 is useless, so this car is strictly a stop light bandit and only drive the freeways at 65-70 mph to keep the rpms down.

 

[huffed6]

are you running to valve float if not cams ok with springs check ign module and fuel supply . had 1 car drive me crazy would run good till on highway at revs and would not run for beans was pinhole in fuel line where it goes through frame . hope this helps

 

[peglegrice]

How are you measuring the RPM?
And, is the tach accurate?
Pegleg

 

[DDent]

Check The Float Level! Always look for the most simple things don't over think the problem. Remeber KISS, (keep it simple stupid). I like the response about the pin hole in the fuel line, that happened to me too. You can put a little air pressure in the fuel tank filler neck with an air blower wrapped with a rag, and listen very carefully. Have someone looking over and under the car to see if you have any air or fuel leaking. if it is a cracked line it tends to be up high over the axel, and it will leak air when you pressurize the system. Don't over do the pressure! 15 PSI is more than enough. Control it at the regulator, you don't want to break the welds in the tank! And don't do that with a full tank, you might get back wash. Be carefull! Open the garage door! You get the picture.

 

[liquid_larry]

Check your float level again on the secondary side. Your carb isn't working when opened to the point the secondaries come in. If fuel pressure is good and there is fuel in the float bowl I would suspect a blocked fuel passage in the secongary metering block, or the wrong gasket used between the metering block and throttle body, When you open up the secondaries with no exta fuel,you've just created a big air leak and there isn't enough fuel for the engine to run.

 

[Rick Holden]

Liquid Larry may be on the right track! Since the motor revs on the primaries only, you have proved the 'mechanicals' for a baseline. Don't rule out the 'fuel line air leak', but I'd definitely take another look at the secondary side of that Holley.

Shine'em and Drive'em