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My 2 cents worth
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ratrod47,

Take this to heart.....No where have you ever posted what Year 460 Ford Powered Motor Home your gramma has.

All we know is "it wont start".

The early years came with Carb.. setups, then they switched to throttle body engines, after that they morphed into multi port fuel injection, the newest ones use cam and crank sensors and the timing is not adjustable. Some of these also came with coil on plug setups.

We also need to know if it even cranks over.

Is it getting fuel?

Does it have spark?

Have you checked compression? From reading your posts I would guess not.

When you start a thread, please give us some information to think about.

Stephen
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
460 pain

O.K. Lets get down to it . 88' 460 wouldn't start so I replaced the
module and pickup coil. Put it back in, wouldn't line up with the
oil pump shaft, a mech told me to bump the starter and it would drop right
in. It did but still wouldn't start. Somebody told me I could set TDC off of
no.6 cylinder. That won't work either. Bit off more than I could chew
 

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ratrod47 said:
O.K. Lets get down to it . 88' 460 wouldn't start so I replaced the
module and pickup coil. Put it back in, wouldn't line up with the
oil pump shaft, a mech told me to bump the starter and it would drop right
in. It did but still wouldn't start. Somebody told me I could set TDC off of
no.6 cylinder. That won't work either. Bit off more than I could chew
Who knows at this point, I would hope you checked for spark before pulling the distributor, but in 1988, the Ford igniter box wasn't known for its durability or reliability so I can understand if you just assumed that system to be defective.

Jumping the distributor in by bumping the engine is a big maybe at least in-so-far as having it jump in and be on time. The distributor drives the oil pump on a hex shaft. As the distributor climbs out when you remove it, the drive gear spirals as it disengages from the cam gear. Two problems you encounter on reassembly are the hex shaft falls over and doesn't meet the broach hole in the bottom of the distributor's shaft, the other is if you don't mesh the exact gear teeth that were together when you took it out, the sides and points of the hex shaft are no longer meeting with the features in broach hole of the distributor shaft. Bumping the engine will turn the gears and distributor shaft and at some point the hex will usually line up and let the distributor drop in, but who knows where the timing really is.

You can set up TDC for number six, but since you really don't know if number 1 or 6 are at TDC firing, or at TDC exhaust to intake transition, you're no better off than you were. The trick is in knowing which TDC event the cylinder is at, which "firing" is the spot you want.

Given this is a 20 year old engine, it's possible the timing set has slipped time, this could very well be the reason you couldn't get it started before the "tune up" and continues to be the reason it won't start now.

Then there's the potential for this to be a fuel issue, given the installation in a motor-home getting to the carb to check it could be difficult, but still if it'll start on a prime, you know the problem is in the fuel system, not the ignition. so that could eliminate or confirm a problem area for you.

I think you're going to have to get a lot greasier before this is over.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
460 pain

Thanx for all your help guys. I got that rv running today. still needs to be
dialed in. I used no.6 cylinder at TDC to set initial timing. After a little
trial and error she started. Now maybe I can get rid of it for good ol'
grannie.
 
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