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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my project posted here :
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/motors-coming-out-129558.html
But since the end is getting closer,I think a new thread is in order.
The machine work is all done,parts are all in,or most of them anyhow,now the tedious work begins.
I spent several hours yesterday cleaning the block thourghly,wiped the cylinders down with thinner,and put a light coat of "Red Rust Check" oil on them.
Today I taped the block and put a coat of POR 15 Chevy orange on,and the Milodon High Volume water pump and stock timing cover got done as well.
The Brodix RaceRite heads got 2 coats of spray can paint for a base,after it dries POR 15 will be going on the heads as well.The block,water pump & timing cover already had a good coat of paint on them,so I painted the POR 15 over top of it.
Heres a few pictures.
Guy



 

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NYOFP4RJ3CHRIS
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I just read your other post and got filled in on your project. I'd have to say that your car is a LOT of fun to drive! :thumbup:
 

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Its just metal,you're the boss
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nice car, how did you manage the big block swap kit or custom? and what kind of axle are you running all of this too?

In the other thread what do you mean when you say an original 4+1 transmission? because unless you got your car from Mexico, the g body Monte Carlo never had a standard transmission...even though it should have. congratulations on being one of the few and the proud with a clutch pedal in their Monte Carlo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
leldai73 said:
nice car, how did you manage the big block swap kit or custom? and what kind of axle are you running all of this too?

In the other thread what do you mean when you say an original 4+1 transmission? because unless you got your car from Mexico, the g body Monte Carlo never had a standard transmission...even though it should have. congratulations on being one of the few and the proud with a clutch pedal in their Monte Carlo.

I sad it has an original Doug Nash 4+1 5 speed,this is an aftermarket trans,now sold by Richmond Gear.The big block was in the car when I bought it,thats why I bought it LOL
Its got a Ford 9 inch rearend.
Guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got a bit more done today,the block,heads,water pump,timing cover and bellhousing all have 2 coats of POR 15 on them,this paint looks real nice so far.The cam was lubed up and installed,the crank was laid in also.I plastigaged the main journal clearances,all were 0.003,the crank end play was 0.006.The main caps are all torqued to specs,Permatex Ultra Slick is being used for assembly lube,and ARP assembly lube was used on the main bolts.The timing chain & gears on on,lined up at 0 degrees.I have also been polishing the exterior of my new Weiand Stealth intake.
Guy




 

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turnign out real nice! i just read your hole other project post the other day so now im all caught up on ur project.i wish i could just stick my 80 malibu in the garage and do a whole engine overhaul. keep posting those pictures. about that POR 15, is that spray on or brush/roller? looks like it goes on pretty thick and makes the rough texture of the bare block smoother. i like the way it looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
malibus~most~wanted said:
turnign out real nice! i just read your hole other project post the other day so now im all caught up on ur project.i wish i could just stick my 80 malibu in the garage and do a whole engine overhaul. keep posting those pictures. about that POR 15, is that spray on or brush/roller? looks like it goes on pretty thick and makes the rough texture of the bare block smoother. i like the way it looks.
The POR 15 is a brush on paint,it looks really good.
I got a bit more done today,mostly just measurements.The cam was degreed,installed straight up it was right on at 108 degrees on the intake center line.The deck height checked out at 0.005,exactly where I had asked for it.With a 0.039 thick gasket,this gives me a quench of 0.044,and a compression ratio of 10.0:1,hopefully this will be very pump gas friendly.I was quite concerned about piston to valve clearance because I was told that with the SpeedPro/TRW L2465 pistons and the Brodix RR heads with 2.25 inch intake valves,there would not be enough clearance.Using the clay method,2 0.019 thick steel shim gaskets and 0 lash gave me clearances of .090 on the intake side and 0.100 on the exhaust,so add in the lash @ 0.018 and this gives me 0.108 & 0.118 in/ex p-v clearance.This was done with the springs I am using installed on the heads,I was quite relieved to find I had sufficient p-v clearance.I only had time to check one ring gap,and it was at 0.020,right where its supposed to be.Heres a few pictures.




Guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stroke said:
This is my idea of a grocery getter. Nice. What cam are you using? Do they give tickets where you drive this thing?
Yes they give tickets here,but if you know the back roads and dont act a fool,you're usually good to go
As for the cam,its a custom grind solid roller from Custom Camshaft Co.
Duration @ 0.050 is 243/249 in/ex,and .668 lift,on a 112 degree LSA
The springs are a Comp peice made by PAC,# 26075,575 lbs open @ 1.250,256 lbs seat pressure @ 1.900.
Guy
 

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You shouldn't really put too much assembly lube on a roller cam, it is actually the opposite of a flat tappet, you don't want assembly lube on the rollers because they can stick a bit and wear the cam prematurely, just a little light oil on the lobes and let the oil running down the lifter valley do the rest. I know you already have it in but I would recommend wiping some of that sticky lube off of the cam lobes.

One thing I always do on my BBC's is to clear out the casting flash around the areas where the oil pours down on the cam. It is probably too late but if you have to take it apart and have it cleaned for any reason you may want to consider it.

I see you smoothed out the rest of the lifter valley...Good thinking
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Double_v23 said:
You shouldn't really put too much assembly lube on a roller cam, it is actually the opposite of a flat tappet, you don't want assembly lube on the rollers because they can stick a bit and wear the cam prematurely, just a little light oil on the lobes and let the oil running down the lifter valley do the rest. I know you already have it in but I would recommend wiping some of that sticky lube off of the cam lobes.

One thing I always do on my BBC's is to clear out the casting flash around the areas where the oil pours down on the cam. It is probably too late but if you have to take it apart and have it cleaned for any reason you may want to consider it.

I see you smoothed out the rest of the lifter valley...Good thinking

Any assembly lube will probably run off quite a bit,it will be on there for a couple of weeks,and they are getting turned over quite a bit with the checking I am doing.I already ground off the casting flash around the areas you mentioned,so I am hoping that everything will be good to go !!

Guy
 

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nice looking engine!

a few comments, if you don't mind.

should be ok with pump gas with that cr, cam, and heads.

I don't like that intake for your engine. you could find a better match for that cam and head combo.

The biggest problem is with the 0.003 clearance on the mains. I think you will have low oil pressure at idle with that much clearance in a BBC. 0.002" rods and mains with 0.003" on the rear main would be better. However, a solid roller doesn't need as much oil to the top end so you should be ok. But expect the oil pressure to drop a lot when the engine warms up.
 

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Guy,
(a comment)

you didn't give cleaning "details" so:
if you didn't clean that block...every last passage....with atleast soap and water and scrub with baby bottle/gun/etc brushes...and turn it over every which way when you blast rinse with a hose and then dry with high pressure air...to remove all the metal machining grime....

you are at risk to score the cylinder walls and bearings when you crank it up!

motor looks good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the comments everyone.I checked with the machine shop that did my machine work and they felt that the 0.003 main clearance was ideal,they race big blocks & build pro engines for customers from all over the world.I am also going to be using a new Mellings Select Series HV oil pump with anti cav slots and a stock spring.I picked the Weiand Stealth dual plane intake because it seems to be an almost perfect match for my combo,everything should peak at 6500-6800 RPM,and I had heard of people being very pleased with the Stealth.As for cleaning,oh yeah,everything got brushed,washed,and blown out really good.I used lots of hot soapy water and lots of hot water to rinse with.I also used something I learnt off of this forum,I wiped the cylinder bores down with thinner and a lint free rag,and there was indeed some grey residue on the rag after wiping them.I also wipe the journals and bearings with thinner before they get assembled,this seems to get those parts nice & clean.I've still got a lot of work ahead of me,but I'm not in a big hurry.

Guy
 

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Guy,
Phew!!!
I'll relax now knowing that you "did" scour the sh## out it....

for the final "white gloves" wipe down test I use lacquer thinner (mostly) and/or brake cleaner....they are both much more "aggressive" cleaners compared to paint "thinner" (aka mineral spirts)....

LOL...that motor is going to be a tire salesman's worst nightmare for tire "tread wear" miles warrentee!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
red65mustang said:
Guy,
Phew!!!
I'll relax now knowing that you "did" scour the sh## out it....

for the final "white gloves" wipe down test I use lacquer thinner (mostly) and/or brake cleaner....they are both much more "aggressive" cleaners compared to paint "thinner" (aka mineral spirts)....

LOL...that motor is going to be a tire salesman's worst nightmare for tire "tread wear" miles warrentee!

I think it is lacquer thinner that I have been using,but I'll double check.
Yeah,tires could be an extra expense for sure,the guys at the tire shop know me on a first name basis !!
I cant wait to get it up and running.
Guy
 

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yes, a lot of race shops will set up a bbc on the loose side. good for high rpms in racing conditions. But idling at a street light during a hot summer day is another story.

I had 2 BBC's set up at a race shop with 0.003 clearance and both had low oil pressure while idling hot even with HV oil pumps and 20/50 oil. I did some research and found a BBC needs to be set up tighter for a street engine. I had both engines re-machined for 0.002 clearance and now the oil pressure stays up when hot.

I'm sure the intake well run fine in the low and mid range. But you are giving up some power on the top end (over 6000 rpm). You are building a 600hp engine and it needs a better intake. Those heads and roller solid cam will demand too much from that intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
454C10 said:
yes, a lot of race shops will set up a bbc on the loose side. good for high rpms in racing conditions. But idling at a street light during a hot summer day is another story.

I had 2 BBC's set up at a race shop with 0.003 clearance and both had low oil pressure while idling hot even with HV oil pumps and 20/50 oil. I did some research and found a BBC needs to be set up tighter for a street engine. I had both engines re-machined for 0.002 clearance and now the oil pressure stays up when hot.

I'm sure the intake well run fine in the low and mid range. But you are giving up some power on the top end (over 6000 rpm). You are building a 600hp engine and it needs a better intake. Those heads and roller solid cam will demand too much from that intake.

When I was looking into getting a new intake I looked at the specs on a few of the ones I was interested in,heres what it says about the Stealth;

Horsepower from idle to 6,800 rpm.
Weiand dual plane Stealth intake manifolds feature long, separated runners for bottom-end and mid-range power, plus a special runner design and larger plenum to flow the air needed for high-rpm horsepower. They mount single, square-mount 4-barrels and make power from idle all the way to 6,800 rpm. That makes Stealth manifolds the perfect choice for your street/strip vehicle.

I felt that from reading this it seemed like the ideal choice.What do you feel would have been a better choice?? Remember,this is a mostly street driven car that will see a trip or 2 to the track.As for low oil pressure at an idle,it has a standard trans and with a solid roller cam I rarely let it idle for any more than 30 seconds or so,and try to keep it up a bit over 1000 RPM.
Guy
 

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Yes the intake description seems right. However, you are building a little more engine than that intake manufacture had in mind. By adding a solid roller cam and big port aftermarket heads, you are building much more engine than a typical 454 with stock heads and a flat tappet cam.

Sure the intake will work on the street. It will make good low and mid range power. And the top end will not be bad either. However, your top end power would be better with an entry level single plane (lowest rpm range victor jr, for example).

Your dual plane intake is rated to 6800 rpm, but your setup is most likely capable of making 10 to 15% more than a 454 with stock heads and similar sized flat tappet. So, that would lower the intake rating to 6120 to 5780 rpm. Not saying the engine will not rev to 6500, but hp will be down maybe 20 or 30 hp in the higher rpms.
 
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