[hotboy454]

Hello I'm finally getting ready to assemble my big block. But i had a few solid roller questions. Im building a 468bbc using 781 heads with 2.19/1.88 valves bowl ported. Rpm air gap with 800 holley dp, 1 3/4 headers 3 in flows cam I'm using is 11-771-8 xe280r I've herd so many reviews about lifter failure in stop in go traffic. As you know this is a hot street set up.I'm running enduring-x lifters other than setting lash would the lifters fail in stop and go traffic. The description say for street use. I have all the variable to run this cam. Should I stay with it or go another route. I've herd good and bad from running solid roller on the street. I'm at 10.1 with 118cc heads just looking for a solid 500-550 HP hot street car. Thank much for all honest input.

 

[68NovaSS]

They are "Endurance" lifters. I have a set of the Isky RedZone solid rollers in my blower car on the street with no problems, but I do inspect them often. We have a member here who had a solid roller come apart in his 388 blower motor, needles everywhere, with major damage. So they're not a throw them in and run it piece.

 

[Mr. P-Body]

Any of the modern "positive oiling" lifters are fine. Comp calls theirs "Endurex". Crower "HIPPO" and Isky "E-Z-Roll" are also this type. They have an "EDM" hole drilled at the oil band, that pressurizes the needles in the wheel (except the Isky which has a bushing instead of needles).

We've used the Comps in Chevys and Pontiacs for a few years now. Zero issues, as many as 30K street miles at 500-plus HP.

Highly recommend restrictors to prevent pumping ALL the oil to the valve covers... Again, LOTS of street miles, no issues.

FWIW

Jim

 

[hotboy454]

I don't mind setting lash every so often. It sounds like what your saying is that it will make the most power,but its just a matter of time before it grenades in street or strip use. Before I get knee deep before I assemble this cam, do you have any cam recommendations to yield the 500-550 HP&trq. I'm looking for. I was considering lunati 60205 cam with 10.1 compression 3000 stall 3.73 gears I was told it was to big to use on the street. I'm stumphed on what to do I want to build it and be happy mind you this is my first BBC. If sbc I would know how to build that without thought.

 

[68NovaSS]

Here's a link to some of Isky's offering, the RedZone Max Endurance are what I'm using without any failures.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Lifters/Lifter-Style/Mechanical-roller/Make/CHEVROLET/Engine-Size/7-4L-454/?keyword=isky+lifters"]http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Lifters/Lifter-Style/Mechanical-roller/Make/CHEVROLET/Engine-Size/7-4L-454/?keyword=isky+lifters"]http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Lifters/Lifter-Style/Mechanical-roller/Make/CHEVROLET/Engine-Size/7-4L-454/?keyword=isky+lifters[/URL][/URL]

 

[hotboy454]

468-solid roller

@Mr.P-body what is oil restrictors I never herd of that. And never ran a solid roller cam. Im having so much trouble before the install I can't image how I'd be during break in and infospace drive. Just to keep my state of mind I should back out if this save the solid roller for another build and just go Hyd.roller cam for simplicity. Geesh I thought build motors wad suppose to be fun. Now I created a nightmare. With the possibility of have a future garage sale.lmfao.

 

[hotboy454]

ARE there any alternatives or should I build what I have and just do regular adjustment ad needed. I don't mind switching came since I haven't install it yet but would like to this weekend.

 

[Mr. P-Body]

Restrictors are "spool valves" that screw into the rear oil galleries, slowing down the flow of oil VOLUME (not pressure) to the lifters, pushrods and rockers. This accomplishes two important functions. First, "soilds" (flat or roller) tend to be much more "free flowing" with the oil supply. Hydraulics have an internal "metering" system that "uses up" some oil volume in the normal process. By restricting the flow to the top, it prevents all the oil in the pan from being pumped into the valve covers without enough time to return to the pan under harsh conditions. Enough oil is provided to lube all the parts and cool the valve springs. The "bonus" is it "force feeds" the bottom end by diverting the unused volume to the mains, and in turn, the rods. All goodness. No "downside". Several companies offer them. Moroso is reliable.

As for periodic adjustment, if you use quality valve train parts (rockers, studs, etc.), this will be minimal. With the BBC, a stud "girdle" always helps. The splayed valves make for adventures in valve train, regardless of lifter "type". We generally use a girdle in any BBC seeing more than .650" lift and/or above 6,500 RPM.

Jim

 

[joelster]

I run the CROWER Maximus lifters with the HIPPO oiling. They were expensive at almost $900 but they are very beefy. I had them side by side alongside of 2 other Comp lifters and there was no comparison. Pic is below. The hardest part of street driving is idling, believe it or not. Keep the idle up comfortably high at say 1000rpm and the lifters will thank you for it.

Crower Maximus on left, Comp solid in the middle with oiling groove, Comp solid on right without oiling groove

Crower on the left, Comp on the right. The link bar is chinsy on the Comp lifters

 

[Guest]

is there a reason you went with a soild roller instead of a hyd roller for the street?

IMO the HYD is a better choice for street driving applications.
the soild rollers are more for high rpm strip use but some people run them on the street.

if you can return the soild roller and the lifters id return em and get a HYD set up just for piece of mind. but it all depends if you like wrenching every 1000 miles.

 

[my87Z]

I use Howards direct lube pro max lifters in mine, idles at about 1100rpm and i adjust the lash twice a year. when i do they barely need any adjustment. but they are around 650.00 too. i would't say that you need this expensive of a lifter. i would think that a set of the Howards direct lube pro lite lifters would be just fine

 

[Mr. P-Body]

The "appearance" of a lifter is meaningless. The Crower lifter is a good one. So is the Comp. The Comp is significantly lighter in weight, and the area where the weight is "removed" is not where strength is an issue. The Comp "Endurex" lifters run about $500 a set. MANY out there with more than 10K street miles and plenty of "street/strip" action.

For the "record", I don't make these recommendations based on other peoples' experiences. I base them on MY experience, WITH these engines. I have offered a valid reason for using restrictors. Simply saying "never use restrictors in a as street engine" without specifically explaining WHY makes only for more confusion. If you have reasons other than "that's the way I've always done it", please share. I'm "here to tell you", using restrictors will NOT affect longevity in a negative manner, just the opposite. If you've had oiling problems, look elsewhere.

Jim

 

[joelster]

The "appearance" of a lifter is meaningless. The Crower lifter is a good one. So is the Comp. The Comp is significantly lighter in weight, and the area where the weight is "removed" is not where strength is an issue. The Comp "Endurex" lifters run about $500 a set. MANY out there with more than 10K street miles and plenty of "street/strip" action.

For the "record", I don't make these recommendations based on other peoples' experiences. I base them on MY experience, WITH these engines. I have offered a valid reason for using restrictors. Simply saying "never use restrictors in a as street engine" without specifically explaining WHY makes only for more confusion. If you have reasons other than "that's the way I've always done it", please share. I'm "here to tell you", using restrictors will NOT affect longevity in a negative manner, just the opposite. If you've had oiling problems, look elsewhere.

Jim

Well I beg to differ on the appearance part being "meaningless". On MY engine with a .900" base circle cam, the body portion of the Comp lifters is so far down into the lifter bore that I was apprehensive about possibly cocking one in the lifter bore. Think of a short skirt piston with over half of it hanging down below the cylinder. I feel way more comfortable running the Crower's for my application. Maybe the Comp's wouldn't have presented a problem for me, but I wasn't willing to take that chance. I asked a few experts on yb and they recommended a taller bodied lifter. I didn't weigh them but yes, the Crowers are much heavier.

 

[Mr. P-Body]

I've seen the "small base circle" issue before. I agree, they look a little "short' in the bore. The oil "band" is also too low in the bore. Our solution to that problem is using the Comp 859 lifter (Pontiac) with the BBC link bars. The body is a little taller (about .080"), but the oil band is in the proper place for the "new" position. One 427 took 30-40 seconds to get oil "to the top" with the Crowers made to Chevy specs. After changing to the Pontiac-type, it took less than 5 seconds. That engine now has several thousand street miles on it without issue.

It's okay with me, what ever brand one is comfortable with. I just offer real-world experience to the situation. Crower and Isky definitely make good lifters. So does Comp.

Jim