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Elsewhere on this forum there is a long discussion from 3 years ago where I was troubleshooting my brake system. Car is a '48 Lincoln Continental with a Mustang II front end, 9" Ford rear with drums (probably '74 Torino). In the previous thread, over a period of several weeks I went from a stock 74 Mustang front disc setup to Wilwood 11" brakes and a 7" dual frame mounted booster. I was dealing with low vacuum to the booster and eventually sorted that out. Performance went from "mechanical brakes" level to OK hydraulic brake performance- nearly impossible to lock the wheels, but somewhat adequate. I've driver the car several years like this and only once had a hair raising stop when someone pulled in front of me.

I still think the performance could be better and may finally have figured out what the problem is. I've found that the brakes perform much better under severe use, such as a couple of panic stops. After warming the brakes up like this, it's possible to lock the rear wheels (still not the front) , and the front hauls you down nicely despite not locking. My conclusion is that the Wilwood brake pads are a racing formulation or close to it, so they don't perform well under everyday street use (the first stop of the day can be quite harrowing).

Best I can tell, there are only 2 other pad formulations made for this caliper and they are all more racing oriented than mine (BP-10). Anyone with Wilwood experience care to weigh in?
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Several ways to go other than different pads. First, have you looked into a larger booster? Understand there isn't much room under the car but if you can upgrade to a duel 8" booster it will give you 26 percent more area. If your M/C is 1 1/8" bore you may want to look at a 1" bore which will up your pressure a bit. Last, because stopping is mandatory Have you considered converting to hydroboost?

Sweet ride!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Several ways to go other than different pads. First, have you looked into a larger booster? Understand there isn't much room under the car but if you can upgrade to a duel 8" booster it will give you 26 percent more area. If your M/C is 1 1/8" bore you may want to look at a 1" bore which will up your pressure a bit. Last, because stopping is mandatory Have you considered converting to hydroboost?

Sweet ride!

Unfortunately a larger booster simply won't fit in the frame rails. I did (at the last moment) realize I needed a 1" bore and changed my order before it arrived. Don't know a thing about hydroboost but will check into it. Seems like I may end up with a hanging pedal and booster on the firewall.
 

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The BP-10 compound should be the right one assuming there wasn't a mix up.
For the price of a local parts house pad at $20 it would be worth trying and see if the performance is too your liking. You would know by the end of the street.
 

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Got to thinking about booster and M/C location. They do NOT have to be right next to the pedal. The rod from the pedal to the booster can be several feet long if there is more room for a bigger booster back further. Did that on my Willys, they were just in front of the rear wheel.
 

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My neighbor is 6'5". Brack needed a big car to build. I found him a very nice original 1935 Packard Victoria cabriolet coupe...121" wheel base, 5000 pounds, an original driver.
The day he got it back from Western New York, I ordered a crate 502/502, 700R4.
Used a 12" booster on the firewall with equalizer block. 9" Ford axle. Fat Man IFS with C5 Corvette IFS.
A fine Lux-O-Rod 2 years later.
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