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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I joined up a couple of years ago looking for info on '49 Plymouth conversion stuff. Its a Special Deluxe Club Coupe. So far I've acquired a disc brake conversion from AAJ brakes along with his power booster and master cylinder set up, the motor mounts based on the "plydo" pattern from Butch's Cool Stuff, and Fatman trans crossmember and power rack brackets and parts, also from Butch's. I recently pulled a running 318 and 727 from a '76 Cordoba, so I'm getting closer finally. The install needs a truck oil pan and pickup and truck exhaust manifolds too which I just acquired by parting out an '87 D150. I grabbed the interior out of a wrecked Intrepid but haven't figured out yet if I can make the seat backs flex for entry into the coupe. The rear seats appears that I can cut it down pretty easily and get the upholstery resewn to be narrower. As my wife and I want to take trips in the '49 and need a reasonable level of comfort (I'm 61 and she's not far behind...) I think I'm going to go with Classic Auto Air, I like their set up a bit better than Vintage just on reading about them and I've talked to a Classic rep about the specifics. I grabbed a full set of modern whitewall radials and the 15X6 wheels from a '76 New Yorker Brougham which (you guess it) I parted out this summer, they may be too big but that will be my first try. I may keep the stock rear for now as the shoes, cylinders, etc seem to be readily available and I'm not going racing. I'll stop rambling now.
 

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drive shaft

Didn't the old Mopars use a ball and trunion u joints, maybe a later rear with a modern drive shaft would be easier, cheaper in the long run.My son has my copy of Tex Smith's book How to build mopar hot rods, He has a 36 Plymouth project. Tex is selling any books he has stored in his garage for $ 10 post paid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ball and chain er, trunnion

Yes in front, but standard joint in rear. I probably will switch at some point to get away from the tapered axles and get the 10X2.5 or 3 brakes, but the only axle assembly I have right now that would be about right width is a '62, which also has tapered axles, so not much gain there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
49 Mopar and Tex Smith book

My son has my copy of Tex Smith's book How to build mopar hot rods, He has a 36 Plymouth project. Tex is selling any books he has stored in his garage for $ 10 post paid.
I was lucky enough to buy the book back when it was on the news stands. I have a complete front sub assembly from an Aspen and considered doing the conversion on the '49. The upside is you get the modern engine with mounts, disc brakes, and torsion bar suspension, but I decided to go the other way for now. And, thanks for the tip on the tech article, sounds like a place to explore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rear drum conversion

I was lucky enough to buy the book back when it was on the news stands. I have a complete front sub assembly from an Aspen and considered doing the conversion on the '49. The upside is you get the modern engine with mounts, disc brakes, and torsion bar suspension, but I decided to go the other way for now. And, thanks for the tip on the tech article, sounds like a place to explore.
I just took a look at the Wiki article, my primary feeling is: why didn't I think of that? I've always had some kind of Mopar with a tapered axle set up since my first car (a '58 Savoy) in 1965; I'm thinking of all the time I would have saved through the years.

One niggling little question about the article though: I have a '62 Sport Fury maximum performance car. It has its original 8 3/4 assembly and 3.91 gears...in a "742" housing. The article seems to say that max wedge cars used 741 housings...
 
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