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Discussion Starter #1
Guys -

I am new to the forum and I'm not too sure if this is the right place to ask for this information, so If I need to look elsewhere please let me know. I have worked on SBC but never built one from he ground up let alone bild a 496 Stroker from the ground up. So, I am looking for a solid build/spec sheet as complete as possible to build a 496 Stroker topped with duel four barrles. Can anybody here provide me with something like that? I do hope to eventually add a 871 blower later on. I want to keep this beast running on pump fuel as well. I just do not want to waste time or money gathering up the wrong parts or tearing things back open once I do get the blower later down the road. Right now I only have a stock 1983 454 engine out of a motor home that I plan to use as a starting point. I want everything to be balanced and mechanicaly sound as possible. This will be a driver, and may once in a while see the strip just for grins. Thanks for your help in advance.
 

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Guys -

I am new to the forum and I'm not too sure if this is the right place to ask for this information, so If I need to look elsewhere please let me know. I have worked on SBC but never built one from he ground up let alone bild a 496 Stroker from the ground up. So, I am looking for a solid build/spec sheet as complete as possible to build a 496 Stroker topped with duel four barrles. Can anybody here provide me with something like that? I do hope to eventually add a 871 blower later on. I want to keep this beast running on pump fuel as well. I just do not want to waste time or money gathering up the wrong parts or tearing things back open once I do get the blower later down the road. Right now I only have a stock 1983 454 engine out of a motor home that I plan to use as a starting point. I want everything to be balanced and mechanicaly sound as possible. This will be a driver, and may once in a while see the strip just for grins. Thanks for your help in advance.
It's tough to build a naturally-aspirated motor that will please you today and then turn it into a blower motor tomorrow because the static compression ratio required for each application is so different. You'll want ~10.0:1 for a naturally-aspirated one and ~8.00:1 for a blower motor. If you build it 10.0:1 today, you will not be able to use much boost in it later. If you build it 8.00:1 today with forged pistons, it will still run OK, just won't make as much power as it would at 10.0:1 with more cam, but it'll be blower-ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
clarification

Ok, I was hoping mid way through the build to start driving the car until I came up with the blower. If it's not feasible then let's include the blower in the build. Can anybody give me a detailed build plan or spec sheet to build a blown 496 stroker with duel carbs?
 

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Just did a project for a guy on Chevelles.com. Promised him 600HP/600#/ft and he got 663/660HP.

10 to 1 Compression
AFR265 out of the box
Vic Jr with gasket match
950HP
B&B Oil Pan Kit
569/.569 235/235 .050 on a 108 Sep Hyd Roller
Morel 5374
 

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I just did a 496 w/ Weiand 871 blower. Here is what my specs and what I used. I used a Mark IV block.


- Pro-systems 950cfm custom carburetors with venom II metering blocks (custom but still less than off the shelf stuff)
- 8:6-1 CR, forged pistons, callies H forged rods
- Moroso 7 quart oil pan
- ATI Super Damper, dual keyed (2nd one 1/4"), SFi compliant, external balance
- MSD Dynaforce starter
- ARP main studs and ARP head studs
- AFR Magnum Aluminum cylinder heads. CNC combustion chamber, Intake runner volume - 345cc
- Lunati Billet Steel Camshaft, solid roller, custom ground, .670 lift, 266/278 @ .50 , LSA 114
- Crower hardened chromoly 3/8" .080 pushrods
- Lunati double roller timing chain with billet cam and crank gears, 9 position keyways, torrington bearing
- COMP Cams Ultra Pro Magnum XD Roller Rocker Arms,
1.7 ratio, Chromoly (8650) Steel
- Isky EZ-Roll Max , Solid Roller Lifters
- Weiand Aluminum blower Intake
- Stans Hi Performance headers, 2" with 3.5: collector
- Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
- Aeromotive 13202 return style fuel pressure regulator
- MSD Pro Billet distributor
- MSD Powergrid Ignition & control system
- MSD Flying Magnet Crank trigger system


Is that sort of the info you are looking for? Did you want other information on more drivetrain or just engine and fuel/ign? My setup is for drag racing so you might go a little smaller on the AFR heads.
Hope that helps you out for ideas.
 

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straubtech and byronski both offered very decent builds. either build could be stepped up,,,or lol stepped down. what do you want? up to 750 horses n.a. or up to 1200 horses with boost? it only takes a couple buckets of money.

even 600 horse power is going to break driveline parts
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ironbear

Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. Can you also give me and idea as to what type of drive train to use as well. I have allready begun to purchase parts for the engine and would like to think I'm well on my way with a good start. I am an engineer and the detailed planning plays a big part in a project like this for me. Thanks again, I appreciate all the valuable knowage. I hope this keeps me from making rookie type mistakes.
 

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I just did a 496 w/ Weiand 871 blower. Here is what my specs and what I used. I used a Mark IV block.


- Pro-systems 950cfm custom carburetors with venom II metering blocks (custom but still less than off the shelf stuff)
- 8:6-1 CR, forged pistons, callies H forged rods
- Moroso 7 quart oil pan
- ATI Super Damper, dual keyed (2nd one 1/4"), SFi compliant, external balance
- MSD Dynaforce starter
- ARP main studs and ARP head studs
- AFR Magnum Aluminum cylinder heads. CNC combustion chamber, Intake runner volume - 345cc
- Lunati Billet Steel Camshaft, solid roller, custom ground, .670 lift, 266/278 @ .50 , LSA 114
- Crower hardened chromoly 3/8" .080 pushrods
- Lunati double roller timing chain with billet cam and crank gears, 9 position keyways, torrington bearing
- COMP Cams Ultra Pro Magnum XD Roller Rocker Arms,
1.7 ratio, Chromoly (8650) Steel
- Isky EZ-Roll Max , Solid Roller Lifters
- Weiand Aluminum blower Intake
- Stans Hi Performance headers, 2" with 3.5: collector
- Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
- Aeromotive 13202 return style fuel pressure regulator
- MSD Pro Billet distributor
- MSD Powergrid Ignition & control system
- MSD Flying Magnet Crank trigger system


Is that sort of the info you are looking for? Did you want other information on more drivetrain or just engine and fuel/ign? My setup is for drag racing so you might go a little smaller on the AFR heads.
Hope that helps you out for ideas.
Just a couple of things on this. Assuming you are going to twist thing based on cam and head selection, after you get a few runs you will want to crank down the lash adjustment on the exhaust. This thing is going to need more time to get the exhaust out. I would tighten the exhaust lash down .006" and run it. I would then tighten it in .002" increments till the gains stop.

Header size. You have enough header on the engine to support the engine to 6000-6200. If you looking to make peak power around 7000 rpm you need a 2.250" header on this mill to get all of the power out of it.

Pushrods. .080" Wall stuff will flex like a pole vault pole in the engine. I would recommend going to a 7/16" .120 wall pushrod. The new AFR castings will accept these now. If the pushrods flex you will loft the lifter off the lobe and they will crash down on the back side of the lobe. Bushing or not it will fail the lifters.

Just trying to save you some headache on this. Very nice build.
 

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Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. Can you also give me and idea as to what type of drive train to use as well. I have allready begun to purchase parts for the engine and would like to think I'm well on my way with a good start. I am an engineer and the detailed planning plays a big part in a project like this for me. Thanks again, I appreciate all the valuable knowage. I hope this keeps me from making rookie type mistakes.
What is the power goal? I did a hyd roller in a SBC 427 that is in a C3. To date with 513RWTQ it has sheared the wheel studs, torn out the halfshafts, destroyed the ring and pinion.

The amount of power you want will determine what needs to be behind it.
 

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More for Less Racer
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Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. Can you also give me and idea as to what type of drive train to use as well. I have allready begun to purchase parts for the engine and would like to think I'm well on my way with a good start. I am an engineer and the detailed planning plays a big part in a project like this for me. Thanks again, I appreciate all the valuable knowage. I hope this keeps me from making rookie type mistakes.
Kind of hard to advise you on drivetrain parts without knowing what the vehicle is, and how you intend to use it. :confused:
 

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Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. Can you also give me and idea as to what type of drive train to use as well. I have allready begun to purchase parts for the engine and would like to think I'm well on my way with a good start. I am an engineer and the detailed planning plays a big part in a project like this for me. Thanks again, I appreciate all the valuable knowage. I hope this keeps me from making rookie type mistakes.
I'd advise you to post the parts you intend to purchase here before you buy them.
These fellas will steer you in the right direction before you end up with a lemon.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Eagle stroker kits

Has anybody used any of the eagle stroker kits? For the money they seem appealing, but I d not know anything about them. I seen thatthey offer internally ballanced set ups which seems it would save on machineing as well. Let me kno your thoughts.
 

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Which kit you mean. Hopefully you are only considering the forged kits and not the el-cheapo cast kits. SCAT also makes a kit (forged components).


For a project like this I wouldn't cheap out on machine work by worrying about the cost to balance. It isn't that much to have it balanced at the shop and, IMO, is the way to go. A small price to pay and a fraction of the investment you are assembling.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Build Change

Well, after some thought and really focusing on my goals, this is what I have come up with. I scaled back from the blower and I am really trying to get a lot of torque with respectable hp along the way. This may not turn ou to be the drag car I hoped for, but it will be fun on the road. I think I should get roughly 630 hp and 590 ftlb torque at 6000 rpm. But all the torque will kick it at relatively early in rpms making a great, fast driver. I found the build sheet in a hotrod magazine from 2007. See below nd let me know your thouhgts. I know many of you are familure with scat parts, but I added all the part numbers including the rotating assembly in case any of you have questions. I am really leaning towards fuel injection for this animal to gt around any fuel delivery issues. I am looking at a self teaching system now. Do any of you have any experiance with them or have any suggestions?

454 Mark IV core: block
RHS 320cc aluminum heads: Racing Head Service 11001-05
Scat 496 rotating assembly: Scat 1-91610BI
Scat 4.25-inch stroker cast crank: Scat 945425
Scat 6.385-inch I-beam rods: Scat 26385716
SRP 18cc dome forged pistons: JE/SRP 212157
JE file-fit ring set: JE/SRP J100F8-4310-5
Main bearings: Clevite CLE-MS829P
Rod bearings: Clevite CLE-CB734P
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake Summit/Edelbrock EDL-7562
Carb: 850 cfm Mighty Demon/Jegs 132-5563010GC
Thumpr BMT hydraulic roller cam: Summit/COMP CCA-11-602-8
Hydraulic roller lifters: Summit/COMP CCA-854-16
Rocker arms: Summit/COMP, 1.7:1 CCA-1021-16
Pushrods (intake): Summit/COMP, 3/8 inch x 7.750 CCA-8905
Pushrods (exhaust): Summit/COMP, 3/8 inch x 8.800 CCA-7908
Distributor gear: Summit/COMP CCA-12200
Distributor: Summit/MSD Street Fire HEI MSD-8362
 

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how about 290 cc AFR oval port heads(or check profiler) Vic Jr oval port,Boutique 950/1050 cfm carb and a cam like this isky;

396640 RR-640 3200-6800 .640 .028 304° 264° intake and exhaust @ .050 108°
 

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Just did a project for a guy on Chevelles.com. Promised him 600HP/600#/ft and he got 663/660HP.

10 to 1 Compression
AFR265 out of the box
Vic Jr with gasket match
950HP
B&B Oil Pan Kit
569/.569 235/235 .050 on a 108 Sep Hyd Roller
Morel 5374
Here is is your torque with a smaller heads and smaller cam on 496CID.
 

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496 Stroker build sheet

Check out these Profiler heads. BBC 24 Degree Sniper Heads 174 Series. These heads are made in the USA. I would order them bare and have your machinist install the valves, and valve springs, retainers, and locks for your camshaft. If you are going to buy Chinese parts at least buy forged. Check with CNC Motorsports about a rotating assembly you will be better off than buying parts separate. Scat 1-42355BI BB Chevy 496 Competition Balanced Rotating Assembly - 10.5:1 Icon Dome Pistons - BB Chevy 496 Kits - Rotating Assemblies - New - Engine Components | CNC Motorsports | Car Parts | Truck Parts | Competition Engines. I bought a 496 kit from them with the Eagle forged crank, Eagle H-Beam rods, Icon pistons, Clevite H-Series main & rod bearings, and Mahle pre-fit rings. I asked to substitute Icon forged pistons IC789-040 instead of SRP's. I explained that my block was already bored to .040. CNC Motorsports customer service was easy to work with. Check out the MSD 8360 unlike the Street Fire they have advance stop bushings to setup the mechanical advance. You don't need to worry about low end torque go with the Victor Jr. intake and a Holley 950 cfm. Stay away from thumpr camshafts they are all noise. Check out this Lunati hyd. roller 20110549K. Lift .578/595, duration @ .050 232/242 2000-6000. I think you will be better off waiting to buy pushrods until the engine is assembled and measure for pushrod length.
 
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