4l60 add drain plug where?
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Old trick is insrall 4 or 6 longer bolts so once the rest are removed the pan drops a inch+.
Remove one bolt before to get the properr thread pitch.
Then you use a hand siphon pump and suck most of the pan dry into a container.
No holes, potential leaks, or mess on your floor.
Remove one bolt before to get the properr thread pitch.
Then you use a hand siphon pump and suck most of the pan dry into a container.
No holes, potential leaks, or mess on your floor.
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4,246 Posts
If you pull your dipstick then slide a hose down the dipstick tube it will also let you use a hand pump and suck out the fluid that way.
Pump it into a container then when your done pump it back down the dipstick.
Just requires a longer hose. So your not creating a potential dipstick tube seal leak. Also keeps you above the engine longer.
Pump it into a container then when your done pump it back down the dipstick.
Just requires a longer hose. So your not creating a potential dipstick tube seal leak. Also keeps you above the engine longer.
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Remove the pan and drill the hole in the bottom and somewhere near the back. Doesn't have to be all the way as long as its a flat area and will clear your x member. Weld/braze/solder the female part in place. Yes you can solder steel very easily with the right liquid flux. Just don't get it too hot or you have to do it again. Works great. Then test the pan with some water to be sure it doesn't leak. Throw the fluid away that you drained because there is a good chance that you got some dirt/grit/gasket in it. It will cost a whole lot more later on if you cheap out and reuse the fluid even if its almost new. There used to be an old engine filter commercial where a mechanic said"you can pay me now or you can pay me later" .
He said that the fluid is new. He could just buy a paint filter and run the fluid through the filter into a clean container. The drain plugs we used to get had a female with a 1/8 pipe plug. The female fitting had a brass washer and nut on the inside that you screwed together, no welding .
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See the picture at the link, this shows where it is safe to drill a hole and where it’s not.
If going through your effort, I open up the hole and weld in a stiffener that I tap for a plug. To keep the pan from wrapping I bolt it to a flat piece of at least 3/4 plywood or better two layers glued together so it can’t warp when heat is applied.
A deep pan is a big help to these transmissions along with external oil coolers as these overdrive trannies run hot, especially if this is a working truck, that includes working hard for having fun.
Be sure to seal the dipstick tube really well, the GM anti-drain back valve on the converter is notorious for leaking which overfills the pan such that if the filler tube and or the TV cable are not well sealed a lot of oil will get out. Permatex ATF, RTV sealer part number 81180 is made specifically for ATF sealing. Just incase you haven’t noticed ATF is a fantastic penetrating oil, if there is a way out it will find it. Additionally 81180 is formulated to resist the chemistry of ATF that dissolves most anything it contacts given a little heat and time.
Be careful if you screw around with the cooler line fittings the threads in the case are straight pipe thread not taper pipe thread, using standard plumbing fittings will crack the case.
Bogie
If going through your effort, I open up the hole and weld in a stiffener that I tap for a plug. To keep the pan from wrapping I bolt it to a flat piece of at least 3/4 plywood or better two layers glued together so it can’t warp when heat is applied.
A deep pan is a big help to these transmissions along with external oil coolers as these overdrive trannies run hot, especially if this is a working truck, that includes working hard for having fun.
Be sure to seal the dipstick tube really well, the GM anti-drain back valve on the converter is notorious for leaking which overfills the pan such that if the filler tube and or the TV cable are not well sealed a lot of oil will get out. Permatex ATF, RTV sealer part number 81180 is made specifically for ATF sealing. Just incase you haven’t noticed ATF is a fantastic penetrating oil, if there is a way out it will find it. Additionally 81180 is formulated to resist the chemistry of ATF that dissolves most anything it contacts given a little heat and time.
Be careful if you screw around with the cooler line fittings the threads in the case are straight pipe thread not taper pipe thread, using standard plumbing fittings will crack the case.
Bogie
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