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Listen and Learn
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,

I have been having some weird issues with my ck performance trans brake valve body since November of last year and I am at the point of just having to replace it with one from Jakes.

Since my trans has already been modified for the CK kit I am looking to make sure I have everything figured out on what needs to be undone to properly work with the Jakes kit. I am comparing the instructions between the two and want to confirm a few things. The first is the Jake's kit is a LOT simpler. The CK Performance kit has you make a TON of modifications to the pump which is not required with the kit from Jakes. So I think the best option for me is to just start fresh with a stock pump instead of undoing all of the other modifications. I will drill the oil drain back hole behind the seal to 1/4" which seems to be recommended on all units.

-The overrun clutch: Look to just be for additional lubrication so should be fine.
-The direct clutch: The dual feed mod and the relief hole are the same. It looks like the CK kit provides a TH400 piston and spring retainer but that should not make a difference.
-Center support: Both have you removed the 2nd sealing ring. CK has you enlarge a lube feed hole. Again should not be a problem between the two.
-Rear servo: CK provides a different spring, I can swap back to the stock one and omit the seals on the 1-2 piston like Jakes recommends.
-Case: CK has you plug one of the openings next to the center support bolt. Jakes does not so I will need to remove that.
-Check balls: CK kit uses 3 balls; 1,3, and 10. Jakes uses 1,3,4,and 10.
-Wiring: Last change I see is the wiring between the 2 kits. Since the EPC is deleted CK uses the 12v EPC wire to power the transbrake and grounds the solenoid to the valve body.
Jakes has you drill a new hole in the connector and add a plug then rtv it to seal it, then tie into the ground connection for the pressure manifold. Honeslty I do not like the way Jakes does that and will probably retain the wiring that CK does.

What have I missed so far? Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions?

Thanks for your time.
Shane

Here are the 2 sets of instructions.


 

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Oofa, have you called Chris and Jake to get in the middle of that argument about who stole who's idea?

I've seen some heated threads over on LS1tech about the two's D3 transbrake with both responding.

I'm curious how this works out for you, but 'I'm out' on any knowledge to help you out with this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oofa, have you called Chris and Jake to get in the middle of that argument about who stole who's idea?

I've seen some heated threads over on LS1tech about the two's D3 transbrake with both responding.

I'm curious how this works out for you, but 'I'm out' on any knowledge to help you out with this.
haha I am steering clear of that but ive seen some of the arguments.

Its strange because Chris's kit requires a lot of modifications but it also sounds like a lot of people have issues with his kit whereas Jake's kit seems a lot more proven on the number of high hp cars that are running it or at least the number of people that mention/discuss using his kit.
 

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I;ve known Jake for years.. I'm up on who did what on the VB design. I will not comment further either.

That said: Follow Jakes instructions. As for the wire controls . I use a single wire case connector for thr trans brake connector. I do not like the added wire thru OEM case connector. I drill a hole on passenger side of case. Just above the solenoid pack on Jakes TB.. Single wire connection. Works well. I used this for over 10 years on 4L80E

CK has some ideas in there for oil holes on later 1996 & up trans. Increase in sizes. I've done those mods for years.
 

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Is there any advantage to '96 and up vs the pre '96?
None... Pre 1996 is better for a high HP use. Better oiling in early design 4L80. Better roller clutch in early design at the over drive planet / over run clutch
 

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None... Pre 1996 is better for a high HP use. Better oiling in early design 4L80. Better roller clutch in early design at the over drive planet / over run clutch
I thought I had heard just the opposite of this, but I'm glad you clarified. I have a pre 96 and am running alot of HP with nothing other than a stock rebuild. I have a shift kit thatI'm going to install within the next couple of weeks.

I really want to install a trans brake, but not interested in the D3 deal mostly because it's more money. I've never torn into my 80E and I'm somewhat nervous to jump into it with little to no knowledge and experience. I'm hoping we get some decent photos here. I'm not aware of Shane's experience with this, but I'm hoping he passes along how it works out.
 

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Listen and Learn
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I;ve known Jake for years.. I'm up on who did what on the VB design. I will not comment further either.

That said: Follow Jakes instructions. As for the wire controls . I use a single wire case connector for thr trans brake connector. I do not like the added wire thru OEM case connector. I drill a hole on passenger side of case. Just above the solenoid pack on Jakes TB.. Single wire connection. Works well. I used this for over 10 years on 4L80E

CK has some ideas in there for oil holes on later 1996 & up trans. Increase in sizes. I've done those mods for years.
I do not like the idea of drilling the hole in the factory connector either.

I am just going to use the 12v wire that goes to the EPC solenoid to the transbrake instead since the EPC solenoid is deleted and that is how my existing wire harness is done.

I should hopefully have my trans back Friday with an OEM valve body and will run it that way for the next 3-4 weeks while I wait for the Jakes D3 kit to come in that I ordered on Monday.
 

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I thought I had heard just the opposite of this, but I'm glad you clarified. I have a pre 96 and am running alot of HP with nothing other than a stock rebuild. I have a shift kit that I'm going to install within the next couple of weeks.
On 1996 & up units I replace the solid mid shaft and use an early design mid / main shaft with the hole in it length wise.. You have to watch the height setup since GM changed up those parts in later units. You must check clearances on bushings, height of the transfer tube so the direct drum does not contact the center support end where the sealing rings are. If depth is off , the center support can run on the inside of the direct drum bore where sealing rings are located.
 
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