There is an actuator located on the front differential. If it's the original one, it is thermally controlled which GM had alot of problems with. The replacements are electrically controlled. It is about a $200.00 part from a dealer. Simple install.BestDamnGarageInTown said:I have a 1994 chevy 1500, push button 4x4. The 4 wheel drive will not work. It will go into low range but the light on the dash will not come on and the front diff will not lock in. Is there a box that controls that and where is it?
This was a budget build and I done all the work myself. The cage is just a Halo kit that the track has not complained about yet. The intake is a Victor Jr. with a 1150 gas Dominator. The motor is a 461 BBC (454 +.030), Speed Pro Forged dome pistons, casting 215 heads that have been redone with 2.19 intakes & 1.88 exhaust Ferrea valves, mild porting & gasket matched, Comp cams 294S FT cam. Runs pretty good but as you know, us racers are always looking for more so we are still changing things.BestDamnGarageInTown said:I just saw your pics. Nice motor! I can't see going through all the trouble of narrowing the frame, I just built a whole tube chassis for it and used a Jegster front end. I have never seen roll cages built like that before. Will that pass specs? I do like your fabed dash, looks very nice. What all do you have done to the motor? I notice the vic jr intake and is that a dominator carb? She looks like she will roll on pretty good! I went with the blazer because of the weight on the rear ( I was racing it pretty much stock body) then we went crazy with the chassis and knocked out the windows, replaced them, cut out allot of metal that we didn't need and ran 6.30 in a 8th. Now it's on the road as a kick *** toy! I built another drag car because it would not pass specs for the class I was in (NHRA rules are a bit**) thinking of switching to IHRA ( not so much headache involved).