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I have a 50 ford i`m planing to convert to 12 volt neg. ground. I will be putting an alt. in place of the generater. do i have to use an after market volts guage or can i still use my stock amp guage? i know i need the converter for the guages i already have the ron francis one. second if the alt is internally regulated can i still use my points distributer?will i have to put in a differant kind of points?
 

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You'll need an aftermarket gauge if the amperage output of the alternator is higher than the stock gauge is amde to handle. Amps are amps so voltage doesn't matter there except concerning gauge capacity.
Is your gauge an AMP gauge or a Battery gauge(voltmeter)? I believe Ford had both at the time and used one or the other depending on the model of the car. If it is a volt meter you HAVE to use an aftermarket gauge.
Points are points, don't worry about them. I seem to remember that Ford used those same points until they went to electronic ignition.
 

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pasadenahotrod said:
You'll need an aftermarket gauge if the amperage output of the alternator is higher than the stock gauge is amde to handle. Amps are amps so voltage doesn't matter there except concerning gauge capacity.
Is your gauge an AMP gauge or a Battery gauge(voltmeter)? I believe Ford had both at the time and used one or the other depending on the model of the car. If it is a volt meter you HAVE to use an aftermarket gauge.
Points are points, don't worry about them. I seem to remember that Ford used those same points until they went to electronic ignition.
voltage going to points will tho. he will have to put a ballast resistor & bypass in, to keep the points alive
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Your Stock AMP Gauge is most likely, -30, 0, +30 AMPS..if the Vehicle was a generator type charging system.

Almost all alternators Now are at Least 64 AMP output at full load (although some 34 amp Alternators are still out there) , Which Equates To the Meter pegging and possible Shunt burnout under a full load, with lights, stops, Turns, Heater motor and any other accessories you may have going. So an upgrade would be necessary, Or abandon it and use a Volt Gauge (better, and much safer!).

The Regulation of the Alternator will have no Direct effect on the Ignition system. What it will Effect, is how the regulator turns on and off under different load conditions predicated upon where it is hooked up.

If you hook it directly to the fuse link at the battery source,(which is OK for most apps) the regulation period will be shorter (on later, off sooner) than It would be at say the horn relay power..meaning the regulator is not SENSING the load as well as it would at the horn relay power..(the end of the system load.)

Your Ignition Coil as you probably Know, Must be upgraded To a 12 Volt Coil, and a proper Ballast resistor installed, as well as The secondary Ignition wire that runs from the "I" or "R" terminal of the solenoid PAST the Ballast resistor, Directly to the + Side of the coil.

Points Have No Voltage ratings (6 or 12 volt) or polarity, like a switch, they don't care which direction power comes from, so long as it doesn't exceed contact ratings..(arc over point) So you should not have any problems with the standard set you are running.

Doc :pimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so to sum it up dump my stock guage which is the 30+ ampmeter, use a ballast resitor, and keep my stock points.

i think you said hook the regulater to the horn relay. my plan is to use a painless harness. which from my experiance when i put one in my 68 camaro is that it eliminates the horn relay.
i`m not sure if my alt is inernaly regulated or not is their any way to tell? it is a gm i took off a 70 something chevy pickup with a 350.
also is their an electronic upgrade for my stock dist.? or is any known that is a direct fit in with my flat head that i could source from something else or a local parts house?
 

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Yes there is 1lowryd. Look at the two wire connecter on the side at the rear of the alt. If the flats of the spade conn. face each other it is an externally regulated unit. If the edges of the spade conn. face each other it is an internally regulated unit. Hope this helps a little. :)
 

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1lowryd said:
so to sum it up dump my stock guage which is the 30+ ampmeter, use a ballast resitor, and keep my stock points.

i think you said hook the regulater to the horn relay. my plan is to use a painless harness. which from my experiance when i put one in my 68 camaro is that it eliminates the horn relay.
i`m not sure if my alt is inernaly regulated or not is their any way to tell? it is a gm i took off a 70 something chevy pickup with a 350.
also is their an electronic upgrade for my stock dist.? or is any known that is a direct fit in with my flat head that i could source from something else or a local parts house?

Doc here, :pimp:

Sorry for the delay, I lost which one was your post.. :sweat:

Your synopsis is correct. You probably already have a Ballast resistor, but a new one is a good idea.

Are you sure the harness eliminates the horn relay, and Not PROVIDE one at the buss panel?

In a stock configuration, It is not possible to provide power from the horn button to the horn without a relay, as the horn button wire is on GROUND when pushed. This wire provides Ground to the horn relay, closing the contacts to provide power to the horn.

Without a relay, this would require a re~wire of the horn button mechanical configuration, removing the floating ring from ground , and isolating it to provide direct power..(inside the column, a major modification).

Besides that, I doubt the Horn ring and the movable contact would withstand that much current for direct power to the horns for very long..the floating "brush" would pit, Carbonize, and burn up as well as the copper ring.Horns DO draw a lot of current.

Chances are good that if it is a mid to late 70's 12 SI alternator, it is internally regulated. If the posts say, "B", "A", and "F", It is EXTERNAL, If they are Numbered, "1" and "2" with a single connector on the top, It is internal.


INTERNALLY REGULATED, 12 SI SERIES ALTERNATOR.

As Far as an Electronic upgrade for a Flattie Dizzy, I really couldn't tell you, I assume someone has come up with a product for that, but I have not run across it yet. That might be better asked on a Flathead site. OR in an Email to Mallory or other manufacturer.

Doc :pimp:
 
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