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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a little update for what it’s worth..Went with a mild 1 1/2” chop and removed the drip rails.Keeping the curved glass in rear (looks good if it’s not leaned too hard imo).S/S fuel tank from ricks with pump & filter inside.And that’s about it for now. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey bud..Tried to keep the angle the same but only shorter.If that makes any sense..Ordered laminated glass for both front and rear so cutting it down should be much easier.Got the glass in fri so let ya know how it goes.
 

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Slow but willing learner
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Pictures, Pictures... Lots of pictures :) . This will really be interesting to follow. I really enjoyed the thread on cutting down laminated windshields a month or so ago. There is no right or wrong way to customize a car but some ways are easier than others. I personally really like the 1 1/2 chop. It brings the car into proportion without looking too extreme. Having chopped a merc 3 1/2 inches I can guarantee yours will be easier to drive around town also.

Keep your camera handy. We are waiting. :drool:

John L
 

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Very nice, I like a subtle chop on the early 50's Chevys, the kind where it brings the car into a nice proportion as to where you have to look hard to see the chop. As John sas, post pics, this will be a cool build. Dan
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Heck yeah that looks good. That mild of a chop changes everything in the difficulty dept, things go sooooo much smoother with a little less cut out. I am thinking with that little cut leaning the A pillars back did't change the shape of the hole that much. But without a doubt get that glass cut so you can fit the top to it as you finish the chop.

Brian
 

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boatbob2
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Chop Top,,,,,,

Hi,ive only chopped one top,and cut down one windshield,so im NOT the authority. BUT,what i did,was use a 1/8 inch door skin (HD) to make a pattern,then after the skin,fits the hole,perfectly,i put it into the rubber weatherstripping,and installed the skin,as a windshield,(i had to make 2 patterns) then,when i was satisfied with the fit,i removed it from the weatherstripping,and duct taped it to the new glass before cutting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A little more progress: Top done,glass out being cut,bottom all stitch welded and ground.Booster,a/c fitted.Steering column was a little long but worked out ok.Fenders blasted fixed up and POR'ed / epoxy primed.Body now back from blaster.Will spray frame a satin (like suspension) and belly w/lizard skin? :)
 

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SPI Thug
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nice work ! i like a small chop . extreme just doesn't work on everything. the glass guy i use to use would sand down windshields on a wet belt so he could fit them. plus he didn't break any . i could retire on the windshields i've busted . :(

keep the picks coming .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry for the random order of pics.But,I know you sharp fellas can put em in order.Had a decent thread going at the HAMB but they were taken down as soon as I posted the body back from the blaster.:rolleyes:
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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I guess not.Suppose the cage gave someone cardiac arrest.:confused:Looks like i'm here to stay.:thumbup:

God that's bizarre! Life is too short to act that way, and life is too short to put up with it. :D

Brian
 

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Nice work! I have to ask though, it appears your frame crossmembers are not tied into the rockers, is there a reason? This seems like it would make the body "float" as both the body and frame are attached separately to the floor and will flex because of it...

Russ

A little more progress: Top done,glass out being cut,bottom all stitch welded and ground.Booster,a/c fitted.Steering column was a little long but worked out ok.Fenders blasted fixed up and POR'ed / epoxy primed.Body now back from blaster.Will spray frame a satin (like suspension) and belly w/lizard skin? :)
 

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body reinf.

When I did the 5.0 capri I ran 1 X 1 1/2 tube inboard next to the rockers and put in crosmember for more seat support and for mounting points for the roll cage. It really helped to stiffen up the body having a ladder section on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
In the first picture,we used a 3/16 90 degree angle iron that is 3.5”x 3.5”, that is alternately rosette welded all the way down to the inner rocker. The inner rocker, which we fabricated, is 18 gauge sheet metal with vertical ribs to enhance strength on a vertical plane.
The inner rocker was welded to the outer rocker, quarter panel, A pillar, and B pillar
The main floor pieces are 3/16 plate. They sit underneath the angle iron.
The floor pieces are welded to the frame and then completely welded to the angle iron. They are then connected to the firewall and rear floor of the body. The rear floor of the body is welded to the tubs, etc.
The 2nd picture shows the floor UNDERNEATH the angle iron from the rocker.
The 3rd picture then shows a strip that bridges over the outer rocker, the inner rocker, and the angle iron on the scuff plate area of the car.
The other 2 pictures show how it connects to the firewall and quarter.

Picture the weight of the body pushing down on the rockers. The rockers, welded to the angle iron, pushes down, but since it is on TOP of the floor, it has to push down on the floor to be able to move. The rear crossmember goes completely to the inner rocker area. Therefore it sits under the angle iron by over 3 inches as seen in the 5th picture. You can see the evidence of the angle iron to floor weld in the primer and see that it sits 3” PAST that. So now the rocker is pushing down on the frame. 3/16 plate is VERY difficult to flex .The distance between that and the front crossmember where it’s welded to the floor is approximately 5”. So therefore it has only 5 inches to flex that 3/16 plate, but in order to do so, it would have to flex the firewall. And since the firewall is vertical, it’s not very capable of flexing that way.

Also, by doing this we are able to weld the cage directly to the frame making it impossible to flex the car.

I hope this makes sense through my explanation. Because of the questions, we’ll cap the rear crossmember and put a spacer in between the front one and the floor. As you can see in the picture, that will eliminate any possible flex in that 5” area (even though it wouldn’t) and you can also see that the spacer will also be sitting under the angle iron.Oh,the reason the front member has a dip/notch is because it was going to be a body on frame car.:D
 

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