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Slow but willing learner
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5,356 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5,561 ·
That one panel looks like you could save it...(y)
The other....not so sure.
Was Steve with on this outing ? I haven't heard much about him lately and was wondering how he is doing and what progress he is making on his project.
I went up to Steve's tonight and helped him put in the rear glass and instal the deck lid. This is the old blue sedan you used to see in the pictures when he was working on my convertible. He bought it from his brother a while back.

John

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Collector of "someday" cars
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2,450 Posts
Hey thanks guys. Put it in today. Time to start the other side..........

John

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ART, STUNNING, ASTOUNDING, CRAZY COOL. No way to over compliment this upholstery. The pleats being angled to match the trim was great and they match the seat back angle well too. I know you can point out all the little things that bug you about this job, but I bet the shops putting out $20,000 interiors can too and theirs aren't going to be any better.
I know you didn't build this to win awards, but that car should win Good Guys "Home Built" award without a second thought.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,470 Posts
Looks good however, maybe it's the camera, the pleat angle looks different between the two.
I like how you continue one into the other precisely.
 
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Slow but willing learner
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5,356 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5,573 ·
Can you cut out a circle from the backing and let the handle push the fabric into the recess to lock on ?
I can't and the reason why is also the problem. The back is a piece of 3mm abs plastic and the pleats are in 1/8” foam glued to another piece of 3mm abs. That adds up to 3/8" inch of material plus the thickness of the material. To cut a relief from the 1/4” of abs without tearing up the 1/8” of foam and material would be pretty well impossible I believe.

I will redesign the driver's side and see see how it works and then go back to this one. LOL, I would like to have something to show for the cruise in tomorrow. (y)

John
 

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Slow but willing learner
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Discussion Starter · #5,579 · (Edited)
My problem with the RH side was the panel ended up so thick, the window crank won't go on. To fix this I needed to design the panel in such a way that the area where of the handle was is as thin as possible.

Here is what I did.

Instead of foaming the panel and then adding the pleats on a second panel, I foamed the back and cut the pleats into it first. The relief for the crank appears to be slightly off center but it is not. It was marked off while the foamed panel was on the car and the crank was installed. The hole itself is slightly off.

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The vinyl was glued on to the foam after making sure there was plenty of glue in the reliefs with a brush.

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Once this was done the next challenge was to get the lower portion installed without it ending up thicker than the pleated portion.

I found a poster board thickness of PVC board and cut a small piece out of it. Then, I stapled the brown vinyl face down with the thin board aligned with the bottom of the pleats.

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Next, I glued 1/8” foam to the lower half of the panel lining it up with the top edge of the poster board material.

I am going to finish this post with another post coming. I'm afraid I am running out of room for my pictures.

John
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Slow but willing learner
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Discussion Starter · #5,580 ·
Once I had the foam glued and trimmed, I found it was thick enough along the poster board area it was going to show pretty badly. One of the nice things about the closed cell Landau top foam is it can be sanded and shaped. I took 100 grit paper and sanded the thick area to bring it down flush with the bottom area.
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Then it was just a matter of trimming the foam, folding the dark vinyl over, and wrapping the bottom of the panel. I ended up with a panel that was only 1/8” thick plus the thickness of one layer of vinyl at the window crank area.

It looks good, works well, and I am pleased.

John

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