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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all new to the site! I have a 53 customline with a 302 and c6. Previous owner kinda hacked in the 12v to some of the original 6 volt wires. I have done some patches but it's to the point that I think its a Hazzard and it's time for a full redo. My question is what harness do you all suggest? I an considering the ezwiring. Mostly do to the extremely affordable price. Pros cons? Any problems people run into with this harness of need to know on these ford cars? Thanks!
 

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The EZ harness should be fine. Rebel has a good reputation also. There's not that many circuits in our cars so all you have to do is install a fusebox and replace each wire. I just rewired my '54 Customline with an 18 circuit universal Painless unit that I found at a garage sale, unopened, for $25. I didn't even use half the circuits it came with. Your original wiring has cloth insulation and is 68 years old! I can almost guarantee that somewhere in the car the insulation has deteriorated, fallen off and left bare wire exposed.
Here's my mess of an original wiring harness..........

618295


Let me also say.......remove the dashboard! Makes it so much easier! I mounted my fusebox up high on the drivers kick panel, behind the dash.

618296


618297
 

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I would agree that rewiring is in order. Research and asking questions (like you have) is the first step. Here is my input, which is what I have learned over the years. I like the "kits" that have a separate fuse panel because adding circuits is so much easier. I like fuse panels that are broken down into three areas: Battery, accessories and ignition. I also like to mount my panels where they are easy to troubleshoot (along side the road 2 A.M.!). To me a well done wiring to a stand alone panel has much more logic than a hard wired panel with a snarl of wires coming out the back. Your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The EZ harness should be fine. Rebel has a good reputation also. There's not that many circuits in our cars so all you have to do is install a fusebox and replace each wire. I just rewired my '54 Customline with an 18 circuit universal Painless unit that I found at a garage sale, unopened, for $25. I didn't even use half the circuits it came with. Your original wiring has cloth insulation and is 68 years old! I can almost guarantee that somewhere in the car the insulation has deteriorated, fallen off and left bare wire exposed.
Here's my mess of an original wiring harness..........

View attachment 618295

Let me also say.......remove the dashboard! Makes it so much easier! I mounted my fusebox up high on the drivers kick panel, behind the dash.

View attachment 618296

View attachment 618297
Looks good! I ordered a painless last night hopefully get started this weekend on it.
I have heard that the original ignition won't work well with the new harness for some reason? Any truth to that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would agree that rewiring is in order. Research and asking questions (like you have) is the first step. Here is my input, which is what I have learned over the years. I like the "kits" that have a separate fuse panel because adding circuits is so much easier. I like fuse panels that are broken down into three areas: Battery, accessories and ignition. I also like to mount my panels where they are easy to troubleshoot (along side the road 2 A.M.!). To me a well done wiring to a stand alone panel has much more logic than a hard wired panel with a snarl of wires coming out the back. Your choice.
I very much like the idea of mounting in a easy to get to area. I am thinking firewall or inner fender for ease
 

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I went the full custom route, bought components, relays, fuse blocks, power blocks. I used marine grade wire. Put in a 22 pin pass through plug at firewall. But everything is low current, on relays. The original harness passed the massive 37 Amp charging current to the back of the ammeter. If you want ecm you have to clean things up.
 

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If you can find the real estate, fire wall would be nice. I went with the LH kick panel, but I found that requires seeing around corners. The standard ignition should work fine, it has ign, acc, and crank. The current capability is better with the old one.
 

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I strongly recommend American Autowire. They make a high quality product with awesome, color-coded documentation, and their tech support is great! I used one of their vehicle-specific kits, and also their #510008 "Power Plus 20" universal kit. I currently have their 67-72 Chevy pickup kit in my shop waiting for me to get to work on it!

Didn't have a good experience when wiring a 37 Chevy with an EZ-Wire kit. Materials were nice, but documentation and tech support was poor. I can't recommend them if this is your first wiring project.

BTW, if your car will have high current draws, my last two AAW kits included their alternator connector kit which uses 6 gauge SXL wire and a mega-fuse. I installed the kit, but used 8 gauge wire instead, which was more than enough than I needed and easier to route.

 

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To add to what 39Master said: If you want to use a kit where the wires are not already soldered to the fuse panel, Ron Francis has kits where each wire connects to a screw terminal on the fuse panel. I inherited one of his kits that had been installed (poorly) on a 55 Chevy. Great tech support from Ron personally.(y) He asked me for the fuse panel's serial number, and then sent me the documentation for no charge.

 
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