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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All- these units use a crush sleeve. My question... If I disassemble to replace bearings only. Why couldn't I just measure the assembled length of my old pinion bearings and crush sleeve. Then apply that exact measurement to cut a sleeve to match with the new bearings/races. In other words a non crush sleeve. I understand I would also have to measure the exact position of the ring gear in the case too.

Just curious on this.

Thanks
 

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Solid crush sleeve eliminators have existed for a long time. The problem is that the whole point of a crush sleeve is to make it easy to make up for manufacturing tolerances in the bearings and housing. If you are replacing bearings, the only certainty is that the old crush sleeve won't be the right height. The aftermarket solid sleeves use a selection of shims in addition to a sleeve to achieve the correct preload. These are a lot more work to install than a crush sleeve because the pinion needs to come out to change the shim thickness to achieve the correct preload. One option to reusing the original crush sleeve is to add a shim so that the next time you crush it a tiny bit more.

Here's an example of a crush sleeve eliminator kit.

 

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I don't think you're plan would work. Otherwise you'd just reuse your existing sleeve. Why cut another. If you're planning on doing this much, put a 9" in it. Can't wait to switch my '55 rear out to one. Not a real fan of these stock rears. Quality axle bearings are non-existent and only 17 spline axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the response... I just thought it would be a quick and easy way to change out all the bearings without using all the special tools, etc.

I would never add a Blue oval rear end to my chevy. Lol. I have about a dozen 3rd members so I can change out if need be.

This just more of a would it question so thank you!
 

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Press, Torque wrench (inch & ft lb), yoke holding plate and dial indicator for gear set. Check backlash before pulling apart and put back to same. Use factory service manual for 55-57. I may have some pdf's. Check out the drivetrain section on Trifive.com. Lot's of good info including a couple posts on me rebuilding mine I'm sure. Does take a **** ton of torque to seat that crush sleeve. I locked the yoke down with 3/4" bar and then another with a 6ft pipe on the yoke nut. First time I blew past the rotational spec so had to remove everything and replace pinion seal and crush sleeve and do it over. Once it starts to compress it get's to spec very quickly. Best get a couple of sleeves and seals.
 

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a local shop that does gears would have left over shims that can be used with your existing crush sleeve.
if you add a 0.030 shim it does not take much rotation of the nut to reset the preload. make sure you have a good locknut and locktite on the nut
 
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