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1,210 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed that my old post with this issue came up again lately, and decided to share my experience, since I after some thoughts decided to drive with this combination the first 2-3 years after finishing my hot rod back in 2013.
First: I all went well. No broken studs, no tires falling off or bolts loosened.

To increase the safety I always drove with center hub rings to ensure prefect fixating between wheel and hub. This might took off some of the forces working on the bolts?
I don't know.
But I still won't recommend it.

The bolts were visually bent. Not much, of course. The margin is after all very small. But still possible to see by a close look.
Every time I tightened the wheel bolts, I felt that the cone part of the bolt head, met the outer part of the reverse cone area around the rims bolt hole before the inner part. Wear marks around the bolts holes (not very deep or visible) showed the same.

After 2-3 years I changed to wheels with the correct 5x4,75" pattern.
Now the opposite effect was noticeable, since the bolts are slightly inward bent.
But this opposite effect is very weak. I don't think another person would have noticed any of this if he changed the tires on my car today. The 4.75" pattern rims have normal wear marks around the bolts holes.

Now someone might say that by bending the bolts back out again, I will weaken them even more.
If these bolts was grade 8, maybe yes. But then they would probably have broken off in the first place.
Grade 8 bolts are not used much on car chassis and driveline.
The wheel bolts are probably more like grade 5. And grade 5 are not weakened much (if any) by the amount of bending that we are talking about here.

To sum it up:
I all went well, but I still don't recommend it.
Car is driven app 7500 miles so far.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire

578 Posts
That is one sweet-looking car. Fun stuff.

I have been guilty of some pretty marginal methods attaching wheels and other things in my early days and gotten away with it, but then learned that the reason complex things made from many individual components work as well as they do is usually because of there being engineered sizing and tolerances and it behooves one to pay attention and stick to the program.

As far as I know wheel studs are all supposed to be grade-8, but I've noticed that some "grade-8" fasteners are so hard you can't bend them with a hammer, and others not nearly so. Let the buyer beware...

A good friend recently had a problem with mis-aligned wheel studs, using 1/2" press-in studs that a supposed-professional shop pulled into place instead of pressing in as recommended. Pulling in by running a nut down and tightening it --can-- pull hard enough to damage the stud, but not hard enough to fully seat it. After a few drag strip launches, wheels-up on a 3200-lb car, some of the lug nuts (shanked w/ washers, not conical) could hardly be removed and as far as I can tell it's from the good name-brand studs shifting position slightly in their press-fit, not bending, so there's that to consider...your studs may have shifted in their press-fit holes, not bent. (That car is now getting 5/8" screw-ins.)

Conceivably they could be shifted back, by putting an old nut on them and smacking with a hammer. But the first time one looks like it's compromised, i.e. bending or breaking, I'd replace them all. (By pressing-in! :))
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