[67Mustang Al.]

Can someone with info. on slave cylinders shed some light on how to extract the shaft from the cylinder once the internal circlip has been removed. I have a kit with new seals to go in this cylinder but i am unable to extract the nylon bush from the end of the cylinder. I have held the cylinder in the vice and tried to pull the nylon bush out by pulling the shaft outwards, but there is no movement at all. There does not appear to be anything holding it in, but i am obviously missing something basic here. Any help appreciated.
Al.

 

[Shelby1]

Don't know about your cylinder but i like your engine "test"stand!!
Kenny
Lost your job yet ? keep buying foreign...

 

[Gringo]

put a little air to and it should pop out. BE CAREFUL!!!!!!

 

[67Mustang Al.]

Test bed success.

Don't know about your cylinder but i like your engine "test"stand!!
Kenny
Lost your job yet ? keep buying foreign...

Yes the test bed works well. Had to pump the tyres up to 30psi as the engine was rocking sideways when you opened up the holley. All it needs is a diff and steering wheel. :thumbup:

 

[67Mustang Al.]

Power cylinder seals.

put a little air to and it should pop out. BE CAREFUL!!!!!!

Thanks for that . I put 60psi into it and picked at it with a sharp scriber and it came out with a "pop".
The two seals below the plastic retainer also popped out.
Thanks.
Al. from downunder.

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

Thanks for that . I put 60psi into it and picked at it with a sharp scriber and it came out with a "pop".
The two seals below the plastic retainer also popped out.
Thanks.
Al. from downunder.

we used plenty of air and it flew apart, the rod was BENT we straightened it out on a press, was told by a Mustang expert that it would never seal or seal for long. never had a leak after a couple of years now and only cost if I recall about $10. Good luck it will come apart. ED

 

[67Mustang Al.]

Power cylinder

we used plenty of air and it flew apart, the rod was BENT we straightened it out on a press, was told by a Mustang expert that it would never seal or seal for long. never had a leak after a couple of years now and only cost if I recall about $10. Good luck it will come apart. ED

Thanks Ed. yes it came apart with 60 psi. The shaft is straight in this one so should be good with new seals. I paid about $12 Aus. from Mustang Country , Paramount who have sent me lots of parts to get this rocket going again. I am wondering what sort of MPG i will get from a Holley 650 on a 347cu.in.motor with a 3.55 diff. Have to wait and see i guess.
Cheers
Al from downunder.

 

[cranky1]

If you want to go manual, it's really easy on those....

 

[67Mustang Al.]

Manual steering.

Thanks. Is there an advantage of going to manual steering. Before i pulled this car to pieces i only drove it up our driveway and thats as far as i have driven a mustang. The steering seemed light then.
Cheers
Al.

 

[cranky1]

I converted several early Mustangs to manual. I didn't like dealing with the leaks, thrown belts and the too light feel. Mustangs are not very heavy and manual steering isn't hard on the arms. To get rid of the slave cylinder, you swap out the drag link for one made for a manual system.

 

[67Mustang Al.]

Steering.

Thanks for the information. If i cant stop the leaks i will go with the manual steering. I have found a manual steering adaptor in a CJ Pony parts spares book and they are asking $164.95 U.S for it so as the Aussie dollar is 86 cents at the moment which makes it about 190 Aus.dollars. Does that seem a bit pricey to you.
Cheers.
Al.

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

The ford guy that told me not to rebuild my cycl. said for around $100 dollars there is a totally rebuildable cyucl. avialable with fitting on the ends that are easily removable. I thought I saw it in one of the ford catalogs a while back. ED It was an improved version. Would be better then getting rid of all that stuff that may give it a greater resale value. ED

 

[67Mustang Al.]

Pwr steer

Thanks. Good point Ed. The slave cylinder still has the original part no., date of manufacture and the Bendix tag stamped into it. I have looked at the alignment of the pulleys on the pwr pump since cranky1 said he had experience with belts coming off. I am wondering if this applies to engines that have been revved hard ?? with loose belts maybe.
Cheers
Al.

 

[cranky1]

High revs with a stock setup is what is mostly the cause but if the belt is tight and you have perfect pulley alignment, then the problem is reduced. All I changed on my 66 Mustang was the drag link. I did several including a friends 66 Fairlane. If the 67 Mustang steering has the same setup as a 66, then that should be all you need to get.

 

[67Mustang Al.]

Pwr Steer. Mustang.

Thanks. The alignment looks good between the pulleys with a steel straight edge and a bit of measuring. I'm not sure how many revs this 347 will do but i am no street racer. The engine has had half an hour running on the engine stand to run the cam in and sounds great.
I found the part you are talking about in a parts catalog to switch the steering if needed. You have a lot of expreience under your belt and i still have my learner plates on .By the way my 22 yr old son just walked in after his team won their grand final hockey game. :thumbup:
Cheers :thumbup:
Al.