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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm putting together a small journal 68 stock 327. I've got a set of fuely heads been cut and opened up with 202/160 valves, weiand team G single plane intake, Holley HP 650 dp, headers, turbo 350 w/ 2800 stall, 4.10 gears. What would be a good cam for this motor? It's going to be in a 96 S10. It's strip only bracket racing.
 

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I'm putting together a small journal 68 stock 327. I've got a set of fuely heads been cut and opened up with 202/160 valves, weiand team G single plane intake, Holley HP 650 dp, headers, turbo 350 w/ 2800 stall, 4.10 gears. What would be a good cam for this motor? It's going to be in a 96 S10. It's strip only bracket racing.
Welcome to Hotrodders. I edited the thread title. It is best to add proper information in the thread title to aid the membership to know more about your question. thanks
 

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Has the short block ever been rebuilt?? or is it as GM shipped it??
Reason I ask is there differences in compression ratio even between two flat top pistons, depending on if they are standard height or reduced height "rebuilder" pistons.
Head gasket thickness also greatly impacts compression ratio.
I'm guessing you don't have a domed piston Hi-Perf factory engine??.

Bracket race, I'd be using at minimum a solid lifter cam if using flat tappets....no hydraulics.
You willing to go that way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
CR might be 8:1 and it might be 11:1. What does the Piston look like?
I can't answer that yet, I bought the motor already built. All they said was it's a stock rebuild. The heads, intake and carb mentioned above are what I've got that I'm going to replace the stock heads, intake and carb with. I haven't started tearing it down yet.
1/8 or 1/4 mile?
Racing gas?
what RPM is expected?
1/8 mile. Prefer to stay at 92, 93 octane. I'm going to say 5600 to 5800
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Has the short block ever been rebuilt?? or is it as GM shipped it??
Reason I ask is there differences in compression ratio even between two flat top pistons, depending on if they are standard height or reduced height "rebuilder" pistons.
Head gasket thickness also greatly impacts compression ratio.
I'm guessing you don't have a domed piston Hi-Perf factory engine??.

Bracket race, I'd be using at minimum a solid lifter cam if using flat tappets....no hydraulics.
You willing to go that way?
Yes I like solid. I also have a 383 stroker motor that's running a solid lift in a Chevy II.
I got this little motor for $500, it was really just a set up motor in some other drag cars. I've never run anything this small displacement. That's why I'm asking about a cam for it.
 

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Until you get it torn down to the short block and can check what the piston and deck height is, it would be foolish to try to pick a cam spec.....cam spec is closely tied to compression ratio.

Bracket racing.....the 2800 rpm stall is just slightly above half what it really needs. The 4.10 gear is good.

Why such a low peak RPM?? Stock short block would be good to 6700-6800 all day long.....and you need to be up there to get power out of a 327.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Until you get it torn down to the short block and can check what the piston and deck height is, it would be foolish to try to pick a cam spec.....cam spec is closely tied to compression ratio.

Bracket racing.....the 2800 rpm stall is just slightly above half what it really needs. The 4.10 gear is good.

Why such a low peak RPM?? Stock short block would be good to 6700-6800 all day long.....and you need to be up there to get power out of a 327.
I run foot brake, no trans brake. I adjust on the tree by my stall. If I'm leaving late then I stall more, leaving early stall less. 2800 generally gets me in the 500 to 510 RT.
As for turning up the motor for shift points I'm all for it. I've never had a 327 before. I'm doing my research and being schooled on this little bad boy. Thanks for your input, all is appreciated
 

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At one time Wiseco had some really nice 327 performance pistons that weren't too expensive. I'd also skip the stock rods if you decide to open up the bottom of the motor. Thats just me. 1968 should be a large journal 327, which means you save a little bit of money and sometimes time trying to find an Eagle SIR small journal rod.
Now, you'll get guys telling you thats a great candidate for a 383 build, and it is...but if you wanna do something different and keep the OG 5.3L displacement? I say call up bullet cams and ask them for a Harold Brookshire solid lifter grind.
If your tires are taller than 27" and wider than about 8 inches? You are going to want more rear gear than a 4.10:1, long term. Strip only, with a 28" tire I'd want a 4.56 gear.
Please tell me you're nt doing this with a stock S10 axle :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
At one time Wiseco had some really nice 327 performance pistons that weren't too expensive. I'd also skip the stock rods if you decide to open up the bottom of the motor. Thats just me. 1968 should be a large journal 327, which means you save a little bit of money and sometimes time trying to find an Eagle SIR small journal rod.
Now, you'll get guys telling you thats a great candidate for a 383 build, and it is...but if you wanna do something different and keep the OG 5.3L displacement? I say call up bullet cams and ask them for a Harold Brookshire solid lifter grind.
If your tires are taller than 27" and wider than about 8 inches? You are going to want more rear gear than a 4.10:1, long term. Strip only, with a 28" tire I'd want a 4.56 gear.
Please tell me you're nt doing this with a stock S10 axle :)
Ford 9" rear with Yukon guts and strange axels. 26/10.5/15 MT stickies
 

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4.10 is probably very adequate; it all depends on how quick or fast you want to be. You're making compromises (650cfm, 331cid, etc, etc). But I think its a good start. I would "CC" your cylinder heads. That means remove the heads and essentially fill the combustion chamber with windshield washer fluid from a graduated container to see how large the chambers are, that will help you decide on what needs to be done as far as pistons, head gaskets, camshaft needs. It also means, with the heads off, you can bring oe cylinder up to "Top Dead Center" (TDC). Here we can get a good look at the piston top, and see if its dished, flat or domed, maybe even a part number or other identifier. Its worth a set of head gaskets to find out, to my mind. But I'd defer to the guys who are engine specialists...Im a gearbox guy first and foremost
 
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