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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I looked at the Edelbrock kit. You’ll notice that it comes with a 500 cfm carburetor. That’s all your 302 will ever need. It’s up to you if you want to spend that much for an intake. Personally I wouldn’t. Skip White sells many aftermarket parts that are comparable at much lower prices. I would be wary of an off brand carburetor, but I’ve had good results with the 3 off brand intakes that I’ve bought. I’d check eBay. I’ve bought some awesome valve covers also. I’m partial to polished aluminum, but you can go with chrome everything if your pockets are deep enough. Even chrome Edelbrock carbs.
I was planning on some edelbrock carburetors anyway. The 350 that I am going to sell has an edelbrock carb and intake. Im guessing for better gas mileage.
 

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I was planning on some edelbrock carburetors anyway. The 350 that I am going to sell has an edelbrock carb and intake. Im guessing for better gas mileage.
I was planning on some edelbrock carburetors anyway. The 350 that I am going to sell has an edelbrock carb and intake. Im guessing for better gas mileage.
Why are you still saying carburetors? One 500 cfm carburetor will flow all the 302 can burn. I found an Edelbrock kit with camshaft, lifters , intake and 600 cfm Edelbrock carburetor and all gaskets for just over $800. Performer intake. Package designed for fuel mileage and performance from idle to 5,500 rpm. Advice in advance for breaking in a flat tappet camshaft. Prelube the engine with an electric drill turning the oil pump. Prelube pump driveshafts are available, although I made my own for Chevy. Make sure that everything is set as close as possible as far as timing. Fill the fuel bowl on the carburetor through the fuel bowl vent using a tiny funnel or the bottle from assembly lube. When the engine starts, immediately bring it up to 2,200 to 2,500 rpm and maintain for a minimum of 20 minutes. Best if you go 30 minutes. You can set the timing at 34 degrees when running this rpm to alleviate overheating. If you do overheat or need to make adjustments during the break in. Shut the engine off. DO NOT let it idle before the break in period is complete. These instructions should be with the camshaft. The reason being is that the only oil that the camshaft lobes get is slung off of the rotating crankshaft. If you don’t adhere to this procedure, expect lobe failure in less than 3,000 miles.
 

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Why are you still saying carburetors? One 500 cfm carburetor will flow all the 302 can burn. I found an Edelbrock kit with camshaft, lifters , intake and 600 cfm Edelbrock carburetor and all gaskets for just over $800. Performer intake. Package designed for fuel mileage and performance from idle to 5,500 rpm. Advice in advance for breaking in a flat tappet camshaft. Prelube the engine with an electric drill turning the oil pump. Prelube pump driveshafts are available, although I made my own for Chevy. Make sure that everything is set as close as possible as far as timing. Fill the fuel bowl on the carburetor through the fuel bowl vent using a tiny funnel or the bottle from assembly lube. When the engine starts, immediately bring it up to 2,200 to 2,500 rpm and maintain for a minimum of 20 minutes. Best if you go 30 minutes. You can set the timing at 34 degrees when running this rpm to alleviate overheating. If you do overheat or need to make adjustments during the break in. Shut the engine off. DO NOT let it idle before the break in period is complete. These instructions should be with the camshaft. The reason being is that the only oil that the camshaft lobes get is slung off of the rotating crankshaft. If you don’t adhere to this procedure, expect lobe failure in less than 3,000 miles.
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Why are you still saying carburetors? One 500 cfm carburetor will flow all the 302 can burn. I found an Edelbrock kit with camshaft, lifters , intake and 600 cfm Edelbrock carburetor and all gaskets for just over $800. Performer intake. Package designed for fuel mileage and performance from idle to 5,500 rpm. Advice in advance for breaking in a flat tappet camshaft. Prelube the engine with an electric drill turning the oil pump. Prelube pump driveshafts are available, although I made my own for Chevy. Make sure that everything is set as close as possible as far as timing. Fill the fuel bowl on the carburetor through the fuel bowl vent using a tiny funnel or the bottle from assembly lube. When the engine starts, immediately bring it up to 2,200 to 2,500 rpm and maintain for a minimum of 20 minutes. Best if you go 30 minutes. You can set the timing at 34 degrees when running this rpm to alleviate overheating. If you do overheat or need to make adjustments during the break in. Shut the engine off. DO NOT let it idle before the break in period is complete. These instructions should be with the camshaft. The reason being is that the only oil that the camshaft lobes get is slung off of the rotating crankshaft. If you don’t adhere to this procedure, expect lobe failure in less than 3,000 miles.https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwiKi4qb8NvyAhUHr8gKHR41DjIYABAHGgJxdQ&sig=AOD64_16Y-8uk67YvfkOghzXGcgRT4hozQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwil6oKb8NvyAhXwEFkFHaU1CYUQww8Izwk&adurl=
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Why are you still saying carburetors? One 500 cfm carburetor will flow all the 302 can burn. I found an Edelbrock kit with camshaft, lifters , intake and 600 cfm Edelbrock carburetor and all gaskets for just over $800. Performer intake. Package designed for fuel mileage and performance from idle to 5,500 rpm. Advice in advance for breaking in a flat tappet camshaft. Prelube the engine with an electric drill turning the oil pump. Prelube pump driveshafts are available, although I made my own for Chevy. Make sure that everything is set as close as possible as far as timing. Fill the fuel bowl on the carburetor through the fuel bowl vent using a tiny funnel or the bottle from assembly lube. When the engine starts, immediately bring it up to 2,200 to 2,500 rpm and maintain for a minimum of 20 minutes. Best if you go 30 minutes. You can set the timing at 34 degrees when running this rpm to alleviate overheating. If you do overheat or need to make adjustments during the break in. Shut the engine off. DO NOT let it idle before the break in period is complete. These instructions should be with the camshaft. The reason being is that the only oil that the camshaft lobes get is slung off of the rotating crankshaft. If you don’t adhere to this procedure, expect lobe failure in less than 3,000 miles.
I meant one carb, I was referring to the edelbrock's in general. Also, would it be better to go with fuel injection?
 

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I agree with Ericnova, find a complete running 88-92 Mustang with trans, or a crown victory(cop car) and swap over, if really looking for nice running car put the efi system on 67. I think the hardest part about installing efi would be your fuel system

You will have a fun and should be reliable car for school, plus it would be a nice little challenge for you. Before you tackle or next hot rod.

As for selling engine 1500 or so
 

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I agree with Ericnova, find a complete running 88-92 Mustang with trans, or a crown victory(cop car) and swap over, if really looking for nice running car put the efi system on 67. I think the hardest part about installing efi would be your fuel system

You will have a fun and should be reliable car for school, plus it would be a nice little challenge for you. Before you tackle or next hot rod.

As for selling engine 1500 or so
I agree on all counts
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
I agree with Ericnova, find a complete running 88-92 Mustang with trans, or a crown victory(cop car) and swap over, if really looking for nice running car put the efi system on 67. I think the hardest part about installing efi would be your fuel system

You will have a fun and should be reliable car for school, plus it would be a nice little challenge for you. Before you tackle or next hot rod.

As for selling engine 1500 or so
Ok, so find an 88-92 mustang or a crown vic? I could trade my car that I was going to sell to find one! Ill get right on it. Will the mounts be the same?
 

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I meant one carb, I was referring to the edelbrock's in general. Also, would it be better to go with fuel injection?
Fuel injection will require an in tank fuel pump and new fuel lines to handle the fuel pressure required. Also, are you prepared to spend $1,000 on fuel injection? It would be the best solution. You can use the same square bore intake manifold. If it was mine I’d love to put in a little bit more cam. Just slightly more. Say 1800 to 5500 rpm range and a slightly looser torque converter. If I was 16 again I’d love to hear a little rump rumpity at idle. Heck, even at 69 I’d like to hear that. Vacuum should still be good at idle. Personally I’d put a master rebuild kit in the engine. Probably has a lot of miles. You don’t need to go crazy. You just need the block professionally cleaned, bored, new cam bearings, core plugs and new pistons installed on the rods. Also have the heads rebuilt. You could pay to have the crank and cam installed if you’re not comfortable with that. Doing all of the rest yourself, locally here I could do it all for under a $1,000. Then another $1,000 for the fuel injection and you’d have something to be proud of. You can select your cam when ordering the engine master rebuilt kit. To make sure everything is right, let the machine shop order the engine kit.
 

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Or would I just be transferring the fuel injection system over to a 302? Either way its a good Idea.
If you want to use the factory EFI on the old engine you’ll need a whole bunch of sensors, wiring harness, and relays. Not worth the trouble IMHO. I’d do what I said in my last post, but putting the entire set up from a 88 to ? Lincoln Is doable. My son in law put the entire set up from a Lincoln into a 56 Studebaker Commander. Sweet. I could write a book on everything he did on the old Stude.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
If you want to use the factory EFI on the old engine you’ll need a whole bunch of sensors, wiring harness, and relays. Not worth the trouble IMHO. I’d do what I said in my last post, but putting the entire set up from a 88 to ? Lincoln Is doable. My son in law put the entire set up from a Lincoln into a 56 Studebaker Commander. Sweet. I could write a book on everything he did on the old Stude.
K, so what you guys were saying is get a 88-92 mustang or crown vic for a car to drive until I get this done? I would agree with that. I was already looking for a mustang around that year. As for the efi Im willing to spend the 1000 on it, just need to sell the 350 and the other car first.
 

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If you want to use the factory EFI on the old engine you’ll need a whole bunch of sensors, wiring harness, and relays. Not worth the trouble IMHO. I’d do what I said in my last post, but putting the entire set up from a 88 to ? Lincoln Is doable. My son in law put the entire set up from a Lincoln into a 56 Studebaker Commander. Sweet. I could write a book on everything he did on the old Stude.
I’m referring to the entire engine and transmission setup from the Lincoln. Not just the EFI.
 

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K, so what you guys were saying is get a 88-92 mustang or crown vic for a car to drive until I get this done? I would agree with that. I was already looking for a mustang around that year. As for the efi Im willing to spend the 1000 on it, just need to sell the 350 and the other car first.
They are taking about taking the entire engine and transmission with all of the wiring and ECU and putting it all in the Mustang. It can be done. My son put a LS1 in his rally car. A 1987 Mazda RX7. It dominates the 2wd open eastern division rally circuit. I’d love to see you build the Mustang.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
I’m referring to the entire engine and transmission setup from the Lincoln. Not just the EFI.
Ahh, kk. Well what I think i'm going to do is get an EFI conversion kit for the 302 as well as a master rebuild kit. I have things at my house that can sell during the winter and a lot I can sell for during the summer. that should bring my price to around 1300 for the conversion and rebuild. I've done the math and if I sell the car I have and the engine I have for the right price, I should skim by. Hoping to be able to sell them for a little more then what I was thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
They are taking about taking the entire engine and transmission with all of the wiring and ECU and putting it all in the Mustang. It can be done. My son put a LS1 in his rally car. A 1987 Mazda RX7. It dominates the 2wd open eastern division rally circuit. I’d love to see you build the Mustang.
Oh, I would love to see that done as well. How hard would it be? would it be harder than the 350 would have been?
 

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Ahh, kk. Well what I think i'm going to do is get an EFI conversion kit for the 302 as well as a master rebuild kit. I have things at my house that can sell during the winter and a lot I can sell for during the summer. that should bring my price to around 1300 for the conversion and rebuild. I've done the math and if I sell the car I have and the engine I have for the right price, I should skim by. Hoping to be able to sell them for a little more then what I was thinking.
It sounds like you have a good plan. That’s exactly what I’d do if it was mine. And the last overhaul kit that I bought for a 3 speed automatic was under $120. I’d put a Ford C4 transmission behind that engine to keep it simple. Probably put in a shift kit while I was at it. Should be able to find instructions for rebuilding a C4 on the web. I’ve done 3 and 4 speed auto transmissions of Ford, Mopar and GM varieties. Really not that difficult if you have the right tools and patience. There are a couple special tools needed. I built my own.
 

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Oh, I would love to see that done as well. How hard would it be? would it be harder than the 350 would have been?
Putting a Ford into a Ford should be less difficult. But not as simple as running period correct components. I’ve personally never done it. My son lives 925 miles away. I have no clue as to what is required. I’ve seen programs on THE VELOCITY CHANNEL where it’s been done but they don’t show details. May find something on the web.
 

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Putting a Ford into a Ford should be less difficult. But not as simple as running period correct components. I’ve personally never done it. My son lives 925 miles away. I have no clue as to what is required. I’ve seen programs on THE VELOCITY CHANNEL where it’s been done but they don’t show details. May find something on the web.
The plus side is that the drivetrain out of a 88-92 crown Vic or Mustang will be cheaper than what it would take to rebuild the 302 and C4. My son said complete LS1engines can be had for about $500. The salvage yards are full of them. I’d guess that the Mustang and Crown Vics are quite numerous also. Just call around you should be able to find a wrecked donor car to salvage everything you need.
 
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