[Campbem]

I am in desperate need of help on this one. I have a 38 chevy pickup with a 69 GM column in it. Am having trouble getting the horn to work. I know I have the wires right from the fuse box because I can put a simple push button starter switch on and it works. I know the problem is in the steering column and in particular, the horn button assembly. I had a grant steering wheel on it when I got the truck (couple months ago) and I put a GM adapter on it and Colorado steering wheel on. I replaced all the horn parts that I think will make the horn work but I am not sure I got everything back in right. Does anyone have a diagram of the set up? Also, not sure if I am grounding it correctly. I have a green wire running fron under the horn cap that I grounded to the 3/8 screw in the adapter. Hooked the hot lead from the horn button to the horn lead running through the horn cam? Where did I go wrong?

Thanks for your help!

campbem

 

[bracketeer]

generically speaking

Most horns work by running power from the fuse box through a relay to the horn to a ground. Another power wire goes to the activating side of the solenoid, up the column to the horn button to ground. When the horn is depressed it sends current to ground thus activating the sloenoid. When the solenoid activates it allows power to go the horn. When you checked your horn you may have checked it on the down stream side of the solenoid. You need to check the activation side to see if solenoid works. If it does you may have a broken wire in the column, especially if it is a tilt wheel. You also mentioned a hot wire. To my knowledge ( I may be wrong) there is no hot wire. As soon as the horn wire hits anything metal. The horn should blow.

 

[poncho62]

The wire that runs up the column and trough the horn button is a ground, not a power wire. It works by grounding the circuit.

 

[Campbem]

Thanks guys,

I really am not at all electrically literate. I have a wire running up from the horn cam spring and pin to the middle button located on the rear of the horn button. Is this correct? The pin makes contact with the little button located on the turn signal cam setup, underneath the horn cam. Is it possible that when I cut the pin to fit in the cam that it could be too short. The brass spring still makes contact with the pin as it moves.

I have green wire running from the back of the horn button, which is off center that I ran to a zinc coated 3/8in. screw that is threaded into the floor of the GM adapter. Is this right?

Again, thanks for your help and I apologize for my stupidity. I am learning as I go. I guess thats what rodding is all about... it's frustrating at times but when it all comes together, it feels great!

Mark C.

 

[bracketeer]

you lost me

take the green wire you say is your horn wire and touch it to metal. horn should blow. If it doesn't. It is a problem downstream not in the steering wheel horn button. Check wire running through column with an ohmmeter. If its ok. Hot jump the horn relay. If horn doesn't blow. Relay is bad.

 

[Campbem]

Tried the green wire

I took the green wire and tried to ground it but nothing happens. I have power to the wire going to the column where the wire from the fuse box connects to the column cluster at bottom of column ("P" connector). Horn works when I ground this wire to metal. I honestly don't know if I am hooking the wire correctly to the bottom of the column at the "P" connector. It's going in "G" slot in the "P" connector.

I need to get a wheel puller before I get down into the column again.

Thanks,

Mark C.

 

[Kevin45]

Check this out and print it off. It's the instruction from Grant CLICKY HERE I know when I got my truck that it had a Grant wheel and the person that had put it on had one of the pieces rotated into another hole (the spring and plunger) and it would not let the horn work. Also THIS portion of the site may help you out too.

Kevin

 

[Campbem]

Thanks

Thanks for the help guys! I will see if I can tackle it tomorrow after the hang-over wears off

Thanks,

Mark C.