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Discussion Starter #1
My 57 Chev pickup project has a 700 r4 and a ford 8.8 rear. I need to tackle the driveshaft. I have a driveshaft from an extended Astro and I have the one from the Ranger truck that donated the 8.8 rear. Both have a 3 1/2"od tube but the Astro driveshaft tube tapers down at both ends. I figured on machining off the Rangers rear yoke and cutting the Astro's driveshaft in the 3 1/2" portion to weld the rear yoke on but the darn things about 6" too short. I'm assuming the tube should be one piece so I can't join these two shafts. To make a long story short I now need a donor driveshaft with a 700 r4 front yoke and a long enough 3 1/2" tube section to cut and weld the ford yoke on at the rear. Just wondering about what vehicles to check at the wreckers. It'll be a challenge to find one because if they've been out for a while the sleeve part will be rusted and if still under the vehicle it'll likely be bent from the wrecker's forklift. My 700 r4 is the older version with fewer splines.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Don't weld the tubes together. It won't last say's my driveshaft guy. I couldn't tell you the last time he made one that failed. Last year he had one guy bring a shaft back every week for repair for the entire season. He kept getting his racecar all jacked up the the left front and the shaft was cutting the tubes.

Any driveshaft company's can weld the correecet yolk on eighter end. Cost's me about $50usd.
 

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Driveshaft

Go to your local auto parts store and ask to see the U-joint catalog.
Check and see what u-joint the Ranger uses in the rear and what u-joint the Chevy uses at the front.
Find the section for crossover or combo u-joints...that is joints that have a Ford size crossbar and cups and a Chevy size crossbar and cups or other combinations.
Thus you will only need a Chevy shaft and a combo u-joint for the rear.

See your local driveshaft shop to have it cut if necessary and welded/balanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pasadena, the problem is I now have two driveshafts, both of which are too short. I think the easiest solution is to get another shaft from a 700 r4 that's longer so that I can cut it at the backend and weld the Rangers rear yoke on. That will be cheaper than a total retube at the driveshaft shop. I'm wondering what possible donor vehicles/years will have the shaft I need for the older version of the 700 r4. It'll have to be a 3 1/2"od tube at the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Am I limited to just early 700 r4's or is the spline the same on 200 4r's or other transmissions? As long as it will fit the 700's output shaft and have 3 1/2" tube at the back end it will work for me. It doesn't have to be REALLY long, just long enouhg for a 57 pickup, short box. I think a lot of full sized vans have two piece units.
 

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The front slip yoke on a 700R4 is the same as a TH350 and a 2004R. These trannys are shorter than the 700R4 so the driveshafts from the cars that use them should be longer, about 3".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys, great info. If those front slip yokes are the same I have more options than I originally thought.
 

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I saw a post here that said the 350 slip yokes had a hole in the end and that they could not be used on a 700r4. I don't remember which one, but there are a lot of posts on 700r4's to look through.
 

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Thank for the part number, Blazin! That will help me a lot with the 8.8 I'm putting into my '71 Nova project :thumbup: (...and thanks to you too, Charlie!!)

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well problem solved. The challenge was to find a driveshaft a little longer that has 3 1/2" tube. I had to have 3 1/2" tube because the Ranger yoke for the 8.8 rear welds to 3 1/2". A lot of the shafts I looked at were 3" or else had tapered ends or else had been pulled and the slip yoke was all rusted or else was bent from the yards forklift. I ended up getting a shaft from a mid to late 80's 1/2 ton truck (with a rusted slip yoke) and snagged a clean slip yoke from an Astro that has the same u-joint size. It's now gone to the machine shop to get cut and welded.
 
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