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I am planning on putting a 700r4 tranny in my Camaro, I am wondering, what needs to be done to get it to work, And how to get the Lock up to work as well. I know the driver shaft will need to be cut/balanced. And the crossmember extended, or moved. Can anyone help with this? I have the 700r4 tranny with the torque converter,, I know if I don't setup the lock up, my 350 will burn more gas, I don't want to do that, Saving more gas is why I am putting that tranny in. I appreciate the help.
 

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When I put a chevy 4.3 and 700R4 in my toyota pickup. I used a S10 T/V cable and used the self adjustment built into it for the final adjustment.

For the lock up on the first tranny I put into it " early model " I opened up the pan and moved a switch to a different port and moved the internal wiring around, which let me run one power wire from a push button switch on the dash down to the tranny.

On the second... " later model " I cant remember if I moved any switch's around or just moved the internal wiring.. But I used the same one wire setup, which gave me the options of when to turn on the lockup.

All the gear ratio's I was able to make, was great... Depending on where I put the gear selector and if I turned on the lockup or not..
 

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I have a 78 Camaro also an last year I put in 700r4, they really lower the rpms. I used a drive shaft from a nintyish Mustang, one that had a v8 in it. This is a stronger shaft than what the Camaro had in it, an I think it was the correct lernght, I took it to a drive shaft shop an they did all the work. I moved the cross member back an drilled new holes. One thing I found out was that the pad that the tail shaft is bolted to was to high. The bracket that the pad bolts onto needs to be lowered about an 1 1/2.
 

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First off, you DO NOT need to buy a kit to correct the lock-up condition as you can easily modify the existing wiring harness inside the trans pan to lock-up automatically when it goes into 4th, or both 3rd & 4th, depending on what pressure switch(es) you have on the valve body.

As the other poster mentioned, you need a geometry corrector for your specific carburetor. The 700 is a "cable driven" transmission which simply means if you don't get the correct brackets and set the cable up correctly, the transmission will not function correctly and/or will burn up shortly after install.

If your Camaro came with a TH-350, or Saginaw 4 Speed, or Borg Warner Super T-10 then the yoke on your driveshaft will be correct. You can simply take some measurements, then run down to your local drive shaft shop and have them shorten your existing shaft & rebalance it. If you have a TH-400 trans in the car, with matching shaft, then you will need to start with another shaft.

The cooler lines "should" be in the correct position. The crossmember will need to be cut up & rewelded. If I recall correctly on the Camaros the sub-frame has a very small area in which the ears of the cross member must sit in. I don't think you will have room to move the existing crossmember back because of this. You will need to cut the center of the CM out, move it back to where it needs to be, then weld in sections of metal to allow the ears to remain in the stock location. kind of like this _/-\_ if that helps.

This is not a hard swap to do but it is imperative that you get the TV cable brackets, cable, & geometry correction device sorted BEFORE you drive the car.
 

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i just swap a 700 in a 77 nova should be the same as the camaro the cross member needs to move back a little had to re drill the back holes to the frame i used a g body drive shaft and the correct tv ilnkage brackets and cable u can get a shifter conversion from shiftworks they sell the cable and brackets also if u run the lock up use a switch to activate it
 

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I swapped a 700r4 into my '72 monte carlo. the only change I HAD to make was to shorten the driveshaft by 6" (had a local machine shop do it for about $100)

the GM A-body frames already had the right holes in the frame.. just had to move the cross member back a couple of holes.


don't need to modify the trans at all for the lock up if you don't mind having to pay a little bit of attention to it. I ran ignition switched 12v through a fuse to a toggle switch, to a newer style brake light switch that has the second set of normally-closed contacts for the TCC circuit, and down to the trans.

my car weights 4,020 lbs with me in it.. that extra gearing in 1st gear really helps it leave the line HARD.. and the o.d is nice on the freeway.

I really don't bother with the lock up except when I'm on the freeway.

the stock 3 spd column shift works 'ok' with the 700r4 but you can't get access to Low-1 with it. I switched to a 700r4 specific Hurst Pro-Matic ][ floor mounted ratchet shifter, and love it :>

My Shifter:


my home-made shifter mounting bracket. this shifter actually had to protrude below the bottom of it's own plate, so you either have to dimple the floor, or do I like I did. .and mount it up off the surface (I welded bolts to the plate for the spacing)
 
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