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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi i got a 77 camaro and I would love to make her a little lighter! Looking for anyones best ideas or tricks they've used. I know I can relpace some steel with fiberglass but that can get expensive. So any ideas of stuff I can take off??
Thanks for all the help and Ideas!
 

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There's more weight savings in removing the excess bumper crap, than anywhere else on a 77 Camaro!
The other place to save a fair amount of weight, and gain performance is aftermarket aluminum heads. That's a big money item, so you need to decide how serious you are about weight loss to spend the money for good heads.
Lighter wheels can help, but it's unpsrung weight, and not as helpful as eliminating sprung weight.
You can also relocate weight and make a difference. Take that heavy battery from the front and put it in the trunk where the weight will help, not hinder.
I've added weight to my Camaro vs. stock weight, and not gone slower. Usually weight loss wont make as big a difference as HP gains. When I built my '71 I was drag racing, so I added subframe connectors, traction bars, and a rollbar. Big weight items, but needed for strength and safety. At the same time I was adding performance items on the engine, so my times were going down as the weight went up. I've always felt the time and money going towards performance mods was better spent than most weight savings mods.
 

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How in the world did 2nd gen camaros get so heavy i don't know---it's a compact car after all.

i think it's important to establish a budget first and foremost for the weight-loss program. Otherwise it's just aimless. For instance quite a bit of weight can be lost thru aluminum heads/intake/water pump/wheels etc. But this costs $$$.


Actually i think the 5th gen camaros are actually the heaviest (why again?). But don't get me started on those...............
 

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100 pounds equals 10 horse power. lake wood traction bars or equivalent with J bolts is essential. Relocating the battery requires an outside power cutoff switch,not everyone wants that on a street car. Sub frame connectors do help. Roll bars are required if you go faster than 11.5s. wheels save a little weight.

re heavy new cars,,,rofl at all the retro looking cars. They are 3900 plus
 

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Battery in the trunk, poly windows, interior gutted, everything but the engine removed from the engine bay, lightweight clutch flywheel (or flex plate), aluminum or carbon fiber drive shaft, carbon fiber front quaters, cf or aluminum hood, racing seats, lightweight wheels, low pro tires, remove power steering
 

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100 pounds equals 10 horse power. lake wood traction bars or equivalent with J bolts is essential. Relocating the battery requires an outside power cutoff switch,not everyone wants that on a street car. Sub frame connectors do help. Roll bars are required if you go faster than 11.5s. wheels save a little weight.

re heavy new cars,,,rofl at all the retro looking cars. They are 3900 plus
Don't confuse NHRA with general street use. An outside battery cutoff is not required whenever a battery is relocated. You can also mount them in a discreet area that is still easily accessible. I've got them on all three of my cars, and most people can't even find them.
Subframe connectors are a must on 2nd gen Camaros if you don't want to twist your body panels. I speak from my own car, and having to realign a lot of gaps when I saw what was happening, and installed connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There's more weight savings in removing the excess bumper crap, than anywhere else on a 77 Camaro!
The other place to save a fair amount of weight, and gain performance is aftermarket aluminum heads. That's a big money item, so you need to decide how serious you are about weight loss to spend the money for good heads.
Lighter wheels can help, but it's unpsrung weight, and not as helpful as eliminating sprung weight.
You can also relocate weight and make a difference. Take that heavy battery from the front and put it in the trunk where the weight will help, not hinder.
I've added weight to my Camaro vs. stock weight, and not gone slower. Usually weight loss wont make as big a difference as HP gains. When I built my '71 I was drag racing, so I added subframe connectors, traction bars, and a rollbar. Big weight items, but needed for strength and safety. At the same time I was adding performance items on the engine, so my times were going down as the weight went up. I've always felt the time and money going towards performance mods was better spent than most weight savings mods.
Ya I accually already have alluminum heads, Sub frame conecteors, and im going to be getting some cal tracs and a roll bar. Im just looking for some ideas to help get rid of some weight.
 

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(Don't confuse NHRA with general street use. ) If you go through tech,at least at our track,if you race you must follow the rules. The guy just has a fast street car.If he races a lot I can see lexan windows and A/C delete.Too knock off a few hundred pounds is easy,to strip the car is expensive. If the car is undercoated,that can save 80 pounds but what a horrible job to remove it. Change flooring to aluminum,saves a couple hundred pounds but wow,,,the expense.

Its a street car,,,
 

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Well on a street car wieght savings isn't always practical since you sacfrice a lot of comfort. Most id do is front cf quaters and hood and lightweight sport seats. What you really need is more POWER!
 

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(Don't confuse NHRA with general street use. ) If you go through tech,at least at our track,if you race you must follow the rules. The guy just has a fast street car.If he races a lot I can see lexan windows and A/C delete.Too knock off a few hundred pounds is easy,to strip the car is expensive. If the car is undercoated,that can save 80 pounds but what a horrible job to remove it. Change flooring to aluminum,saves a couple hundred pounds but wow,,,the expense.

Its a street car,,,
I'm confused. If he's got a street car, then what does it matter what NHRA or your track tech have to do with it. That was my point that he didn't need to worry if it was a street only car.
 

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and if the guy goes to the track to test his toy,then he has to meet requirements. Street cars are fun,but,,,, we have no idea what they can do until we test them.Keep it simple just in case. That car will be so much fun that it has to be tested.
 

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I've spent many years drag racing, and for every car that makes an occasional trip down the strip, there's thousands that never see the strip, or get "tested" on the strip.
Of course if there's a chance you want to drag race it someday, then by all means make it safe. And even if it never sees the strip it should be safe. But you can build a safe street car and enjoy it forever and not drag test it.
My '71 Camaro has not seen the strip since 1989, but I left the harnesses and rollbar in it when I did the total restoration, not because I ever planned to test it again, but because it's part of the car's 16 yr. history when I raced it from 1973-1989. Likewise my street gasser has rollbar and harnesses, but it may never see the strip. I know what it can do, and don't need to test it at the track to get an exact number.
The percentage of people who actually get around to taking their cars to the strip is very small when compared to all the hotrods and muscle cars on the road that never see the track.
 

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people that have raced are less likely to test cars than people that have never been on a track,true. We know our blue car will be as fast or faster than the red car we had before. The people looking for a combination that will do X? have never raced or never raced what they are talking about.If someone sounds like a first timer or wants certain performance ,then testing should be included,,for proof. You also know that it takes more than a powerful engine to make the car quick or fast.
 

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eliminate the jute padding and trunk mat (if equiped) and install light weiht sound deadening material under the carpet that will save you up to 100 lbs even though it is a street car unless you have too have it look into removing the ac system or going with a light weight unit this can cut down on another 100lbs and look into replacing that heavy dash with a fiberglass on I replaced one in a firebird I owned years back and the dash pad weight was a unbelievable 65 lbs by itself with no gauges or components relocate the battery to the trunk and eliminate all unimportant brackets or construct some out of aircraft aluminum however this can become pricey there is no substitute for safety fiberglass street parts or bolt on parts really will not save that much weight for the price because of the reinforcements and the pin ons are flimsy because they have no reinforcements you actually have to construct your own but they are ultra light and the first time your tire throws a rock into it it will need bodywork in 77 the bandit , and rarer firehawk had plastic fender well options you can get restamped ones from yearone that will save a few pounds and stop mudpuddle splash frame connectors are a must weather they are bolt on or weldons invest in some aluminum body mounts also this will cut down on the rest of the body flex but being a street car do not install the radiator support ones unless you want to replace your radiator often
 
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