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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 82 c10 Silverado has the dual dual tanks, but is stuck on the driver side tank. The switch is doing nothing for me, and is not even getting power. If anyone know anything about this system, and could share some information, it would be greatly appreciated!
than
 

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Old(s) Fart
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Did you check the function of the selector valve? Is there power to the valve? Is the valve stuck?
 

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That valve is a complicated thing. Even worse if you have to replace it! The aftermarket one is different from Oe, and a real pain in the butt to work with.
I did one for a customer one time because the guy had to have it. I will never do that again!
Edit, remember that thing is 40 years old now. So there could be a whole bunch of different stuff wrong with it.
 

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Old(s) Fart
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"Complicated thing"? No, not really. Two ports in and one out for fuel and one port in, two out for the return line. It's not rocket science, just plumbing. The valve just slides back and forth inside the housing.
 

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First (before you mess with the pump) is to replace the switch.

Half the time it is the switch.

Next check for power and grounds at the pump.

Now that you have done the easy stuff we get to the pump.

Ok when doing this you want to replace the pump, the lines(hard and soft) going to the pump, and the bolts holding the pump on.



This lets you cut the pump out because it will fight you and it is not worth trying to save the old lines or hardware.

When replacing the soft lines run fuel injection line. Gates Barricade is what I use and recommend. It is not more expensive and is often rated for todays ethanol fuels.




Or you can do what most people do and run one tank. I hate saddle tanks and am a firm supporter in running a blazer or other tank. This moves the tank higher and also gets rid of the plastic protectior that is great at holding mud etc causing the bottom of the tank to rust out.
 

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Old(s) Fart
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Don't replace anything. The first thing to check for is power on the wires to the valve (there is no electric pump). It's trivially easy to verify that the switch works by testing for voltage on the power wires to the valve when you actuate the switch. If there's voltage, then the switch is fine. Next, try powering the valve directly. If it doesn't move, the valve is the problem. Again, no buying of parts until you find out what's broken. Randomly replacing parts without troubleshooting is a good way to introduce new and creative failures.
 

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First (before you mess with the pump) is to replace the switch.

Half the time it is the switch.

Next check for power and grounds at the pump.

Now that you have done the easy stuff we get to the pump.

Ok when doing this you want to replace the pump, the lines(hard and soft) going to the pump, and the bolts holding the pump on.



This lets you cut the pump out because it will fight you and it is not worth trying to save the old lines or hardware.

When replacing the soft lines run fuel injection line. Gates Barricade is what I use and recommend. It is not more expensive and is often rated for todays ethanol fuels.




Or you can do what most people do and run one tank. I hate saddle tanks and am a firm supporter in running a blazer or other tank. This moves the tank higher and also gets rid of the plastic protectior that is great at holding mud etc causing the bottom of the tank to rust out.
82 is a carbed engine

Sent from my LM-X420 using Tapatalk
 

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If the 82 is like the 84 , it's a motor drive valve , vs a solenoid type valve , to get the valve to switch ,you have to press & hold the switch , you should able to hear it shift one side to the other . My 73 is a 3- port solenoid , ( click , click) my 84 is motor drive , 6- port , ( ziiip , ziiip )
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First (before you mess with the pump) is to replace the switch.

Half the time it is the switch.

Next check for power and grounds at the pump.

Now that you have done the easy stuff we get to the pump.

Ok when doing this you want to replace the pump, the lines(hard and soft) going to the pump, and the bolts holding the pump on.



This lets you cut the pump out because it will fight you and it is not worth trying to save the old lines or hardware.

When replacing the soft lines run fuel injection line. Gates Barricade is what I use and recommend. It is not more expensive and is often rated for todays ethanol fuels.




Or you can do what most people do and run one tank. I hate saddle tanks and am a firm supporter in running a blazer or other tank. This moves the tank higher and also gets rid of the plastic protectior that is great at holding mud etc causing the bottom of the tank to rust out.
It’s a mechanical pump on the side of the block, like any other 73-87 c10
 

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GM used two different types of solenoids (the part under the truck) to switch fuel.
  • Earlier models had 3 or 6 ports (it switches both feed and return lines), and it was a simple solenoid with one power terminal. Flipping the dash switch to Aux powered the solenoid and switched to the other tank.
  • later models have a motorized solenoid with six terminals. Same principle, but different wiring.
Which type of solenoid do you have?

Bruce
 

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Sill no answer from OP about which solenoid/valve he has. These are the common choices.
  • 3 port Pollack with single power wire. Easy to find and replace.
  • 6 port Pollack with single power wire, used on trucks with a return line to the fuel pump. These are no longer made, and are therefore nearly impossible to find.
-6 port motorized with six wire connector. These are easy to find, but you need to make wiring mods if you are replacing the older one-wire 6 port.

When you are trying to troubleshoot, keep in mind that GM configured it so it was easy to use either one or two tanks, so the wiring layout is a little confusing/redundant. The wiring for the 2nd tank is more like an add-on, even if factory installed. They also switched from a passenger side “main” tank in 73 to a driver’s side “main” tank in about ‘77 or ‘78, which led to variations in wiring. They also used at least 3 types of dash switches over the years.
 

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Lmc says they have both
The 3 is $50
The 6 is $90

Shows good picture of diffrent valves, and sending unit tops.

I try not to use LMC because they are expensive and take 2 to 3 weeks to recieve parts that if I can find the parts elsewhere can be had in 2 or 3 days. But if they say they have the part I have always recieved the part eventually.
 

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LMC sells the 6 port with 6 Wire connector, which should be the right one for the ‘82 the OP has.

For 73-80 they only sell the 3 port valve, since the older 6 port is discontinued. However, in many cases someone has swapped in pieces from other trucks and different years, so the OP should verify what he has before buying anything.
 
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