[Tynan918]

This rear pan seal is as tough as the gasket material...chips away and hard as a rock...

How can I soften this seal up to get it out more easily ?

Will heat loosen it up ?

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

I would pound a flat bladed screwdriver down the channel underneath it.

 

[Tynan918]

I would pound a flat bladed screwdriver down the channel underneath it.

I was thinking that, I thought I would damage the metal underneath.

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

its iron

 

[Tynan918]

its iron

Good, I took a two day break and I'm ready to start chipping away today...last warm day we got for a week...and I got my daughter this weekend.

 

[RWENUTS]

A pic or two of where you’re cleaning gasket off would be nice. We might see something else you need to check on.

 

[Tynan918]

A pic or two of where you’re cleaning gasket off would be nice. We might see something else you need to check on.

I'll take pictures when it warms up a bit outside.

 

[Tynan918]

I can't raise the engine again to pull the oil pan all the way out, so I'll need a longer flathead screwdriver that sticks out at the bottom of the flywheel, and a big sized hammer to whack the butt of the screwdriver with to get the gasket material off in less swings I would do using an average hammer. I'm going to sharpen the screwdriver tip too...may need to jack the car up a bit too for swing room...

What size hammer ? 2 lb ? 3 lb ? 4 lb ?

The two long screwdrivers locally available today is a 3/8in x 16in from Autozone and a 1/4 in x 22 in at Harbor Freight. I think the 22" is a bit too long, and the 16" should be just right.

Is there an affordable power hammer and long flathead extension I can buy to really beat it out without much effort ?

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

I wouldn't ruin the screwdriver by sharpening it. Just tap lighty with a small hammer. Easy does it. Don't let any junk fall inside the pan. I think better to take oil pan completely off. Screwdriver shouldn't be wider than the seal you are removing from the groove in the rear main cap.

If it helps for access, you could take cover off bottom of torque converter (cover below and in front of flex plate)

Sorry, no easy way to do any of this with the engine in the car.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

[Tynan918]

If it helps for access, you could take cover off bottom of torque converter (cover below and in front of flex plate)

I don't have a cover on the torque converter.

Good to know I don't need a bigger hammer and able to save some money...

 

[Tynan918]

A pic or two of where you’re cleaning gasket off would be nice. We might see something else you need to check on.

 

[Tynan918]

Bought a cheap 8oz stubby hammer and I have these screwdrivers and the scraper tool...

 

[RWENUTS]

Make sure you clean out the tiny area where the cap meets the block.
there’s a gasket locating tab fits in there. It’s not very deep. Maybe 1/8 inch.
How is your one piece gasket attached to the pan?

 

[Tynan918]

I got the gasket material oil pan on and torqued down...finally !

 

[RWENUTS]

Those corner pins (felpro calls them snap ups), how hard are they to use?
Do they make it easier to hold the gasket to the block until you slide the pan up into place?

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

I got the gasket material oil pan on and torqued down...finally !

Yay! Give us a note when you get the balancer/timing tab on and are ready to start adjusting valves.

 

[Tynan918]

Those corner pins (felpro calls them snap ups), how hard are they to use?
Do they make it easier to hold the gasket to the block until you slide the pan up into place?

Yeah, the only thing that derailed the process and made it harder was that rear oil pan gasket still being in place while trying to install it the first time..

But those Corner pins held the gasket to the engine block and the oil pan just fine. Just be sure not to over tighten them or they are hell to get back out.

 

[eric32]

Awesome job!, can't wait too see the cool chevy 305 come alive.

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

Wow, quite a job.

Well done.

Bogie

 

[Tynan918]

OK, today I want to install the harmonic balancer and do the valve adjustment or drop the engine and install the motor mount bolts to secure it back to the frame and install the starter and oil filter to be done with under the car work.

I've heard horror stories and I've heard good stories using the install tool I bought...biggest fear is the bolt snapping off inside the crankshaft bolt hole, being impossible to get out.

I've read using grease on the threads prevents this from happening, is this true ?

When I installed this last time, I used the install tool kit loaned from Autozone with the removable tips, used grease on the threads and didn't have that problem...but I didn't have the $50 for the loan tool this time around...