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OK, today I want to install the harmonic balancer and do the valve adjustment or drop the engine and install the motor mount bolts to secure it back to the frame and install the starter and oil filter to be done with under the car work.
I would go ahead and finish up underneath and get the harmonic balancer on. Then mark the balancer with a sharpie (silver or black, depending on your balancer color) every 90 degrees, starting with the existing mark. First go across from the existing mark and mark that. Then split the distance again on both sides, and when done you should have 3 lines from the sharpie + 1 original line on the balancer. These lines should intersect with your timing tab.

Next, find TDC #1. This is where neither lifter is visibly moving as you turn engine to line up the original mark on the balancer (turning same direction as you would to tighten crankshaft bolt) and both lifters are visibly at the bottom of their travel (none sitting lower than they are). You should also be able to notice that one of the #6 cylinder lifters is moving and not quite at the bottom of it's travel as you come to the mark. If these are the conditions you have, then you are on TDC #1 and are ready to install pushrods and rockers for #1 cylinder per Bogie's post. In addition to what Bogie outlined, I would add that with the intake off you can actually see the plunger in the lifter just start to compress after all the slack is taken out. Then you go 1/2 turn more for both rockers on #1.

Next, turn engine 90 degrees to next mark (turning same direction) and do exactly the same for #8 cylinder. 90 degrees more and do #4. 90 degrees more and do #3. 90 degrees more and you should be back to original mark on balancer and do #6. Keep going for #5, #7, and #2. Turn 90 degrees more to leave original mark on balancer lined up with zero on the pointer. This is TDC#1, and where you want to be when you drop in the distributor. Then put the valve covers on and the spark plugs back in.

Let us know when you are ready for the distributor, or if you have any questions about what you are going to do when adjusting the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #329 ·
How do I know if I need to replace the rocker arm ball bearings ?

Some had to go on with more effort than others, seemed to get stuck a quarter to halfway down the stud so I used valvoline grease on the studs to ease the process...

Wondered if that was a sign of an potential issue ?
 

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How do I know if I need to replace the rocker arm ball bearings ?

Some had to go on with more effort than others, seemed to get stuck a quarter to halfway down the stud so I used valvoline grease on the studs to ease the process...

Wondered if that was a sign of an potential issue ?
Probably just a buildup of old varnish. As long as the metal on the ball part looks OK and is not discolored blue you should be OK. It's an easy fix later if there is a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #331 ·
Probably just a buildup of old varnish. As long as the metal on the ball part looks OK and is not discolored blue you should be OK. It's an easy fix later if there is a problem.
I got some extra cash to buy some new ones if needed...

Mine didn't look blue in color.

What's the difference between the smooth rocker arm balls and the grooved rocker arm balls? They have some grooved rocker arm balls at my local auto parts store for 69 cents a piece..

Material property Font Circle Parallel Screenshot


Should I use the grooved rocker Arm balls instead of the smooth ones that I have ?

I just don't want these to cause my camshaft or any valve train parts to fail during break in...

I don't know why, but I feel that I need new rocker arms, rocker balls, nuts, and push rods... correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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I got some extra cash to buy some new ones if needed...

Mine didn't look blue in color.

What's the difference between the smooth rocker arm balls and the grooved rocker arm balls? They have some grooved rocker arm balls at my local auto parts store for 69 cents a piece..

View attachment 628481

Should I use the grooved rocker Arm balls instead of the smooth ones that I have ?

I just don't want these to cause my camshaft or any valve train parts to fail during break in...

I don't know why, but I feel that I need new rocker arms, rocker balls, nuts, and push rods... correct me if I'm wrong.
If you want to put them on, then by all means go ahead. Grooves are presumably there for oiling purposes.

I see I got ahead of myself in adjusting valves instructions. Need to put intake on and prime oil pump after adjusting valves (before putting valve covers on). This is so you can verify that all rockers are getting oil.

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Did you oil the timing chain before putting on the front cover? If not you can still squirt some oil on the chain through the hole in the rear of the China wall but you will need an in oil can to do so


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