83-84 L69 305 H.O. - Camshaft and Lifter Replacement

17626 Views 607 Replies 13 Participants Last post by 2001Blazer4x4, 3 mo ago

Tynan918

Discussion Starter · 6 mo ago

Starting this thread to keep track of the process of replacing my flat tappet camshaft and lifters and to ask questions I will have a long the way.

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2001Blazer4x4

· #381 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Tynan918 said:
Well what do you think of this plan here...

For $50 quote I scheduled a welder to come out and weld a wide washer with the same inner diameter as the bolt diameter, then weld a nut to the washer, and turn the broken bolt back out, like this dude did in this video.

I bet that will work in your case! Especially since your bolt sticks out a bit. See what experienced people can do?? It wasn't in my brain to think of that - but it seems like very good technique. Here's a case where YouTube really comes through! If new bolt doesn't screw in easily afterwards, you will need to get a tap to clean out the threads. But that is only a minor concern.

Remember to go back together with grade 5 or better bolts. They should be blue color in the hardware store.

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Tynan918

Discussion Starter · #382 · 4 mo ago

2001Blazer4x4 said:
I bet that will work in your case! Especially since your bolt sticks out a bit. See what experienced people can do?? It wasn't in my brain to think of that - but it seems like very good technique. Here's a case where YouTube really comes through! If new bolt doesn't screw in easily afterwards, you will need to get a tap to clean out the threads. But that is only a minor concern.

Remember to go back together with grade 5 or better bolts. They should be blue color in the hardware store.

OK cool, I'm going for it then.

Tynan918

Discussion Starter · #383 · 4 mo ago

I know I'm not there yet, but I'm worried about the repair of the broken stud on my exhaust manifold...

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...and while I have the money now, I want to buy whatever I need to get it fixed and have my car running this month.

Will I have to drill anything out ?

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2001Blazer4x4

· #384 · 4 mo ago

Can you get the stud out of the manifold, or at least the nut off the stud? Where does that tube go to currently? (bigger area photo please) Start soaking stud hole with penetrating oil. Make a pool of it on top of that stud and let it soak for a day or two then bolt the manifold back to the engine with a couple of bolts before trying to loosen the stud from beneath - try not to break it off. If you can get the stud out, then replace both studs and nuts and the exhaust donut. If the nut comes off, you could re-cut the threads on the existing stud if necessary.

As a backup, it appears that if threads in the manifold are screwed up on either side you could drill the threads out and put a nut on the top of a bolt that goes through the resulting hole - but in any case you first need to get the manifold off the engine and there is one stud preventing that.

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Tynan918

Discussion Starter · #385 · 4 mo ago

2001Blazer4x4 said:
Can you get the stud out of the manifold, or at least the nut off the stud?

Are you referring to the the stud that didn't break ? I haven't attempted to remove it. As far as the broken stud, it broke where the nut met the flange. I have that nut with a piece of stud attached to it in hand from the broken stud.

2001Blazer4x4 said:
Where does that tube go to currently? (bigger area photo please)

That side of Manifold connects to the exhaust Y pipe, which crosses over to the passenger side along the oil pan to the other Y pipe to manifold connection that is straight piped all the way to the back bumper...I have a single exhaust pipe on the passenger side...

I'll shoot a video today for a visual.

2001Blazer4x4 said:
but in any case you first need to get the manifold off the engine and there is one stud preventing that.

By this, do you mean remove the manifold completely from the engine bay and Y pipe ? To drill out the stud from the manifold to y pipe holes ?

Tynan918

Discussion Starter · #386 · 4 mo ago

Should I be okay with the intake manifold that I have or should I replace with something with slightly more RPM operation range to match with the RPM operation range of the new camshaft ?

The RPM range of the new camshaft is 1200-5200 and my Edelbrock Performer EPS intake manifold operating RPM range is Idle to 5500...

My Edelbrock Performer eps intake manifold should be about just right for this camshaft correct?

AutoGear

· #387 · 4 mo ago

Its more important to get the ports of the intake manifold to line up with, and seal, with the ports of the heads. If you have problems there; the "rating" of the manifold is moot. A better fitting/sealing intake will perform better than one that leaks.

So, If the EPS doesn't physically match up with your heads and gaskets; replace it with a Performer RPM, airgap or not airgap isn't important - but definitel the RPM version of the Performer line.

You could also use a Holley Enforcer or similar Z/28 manifold clone

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2001Blazer4x4

· #388 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Tynan918 said:
Should I be okay with the intake manifold that I have or should I replace with something with slightly more RPM operation range to match with the RPM operation range of the new camshaft ?

The RPM range of the new camshaft is 1200-5200 and my Edelbrock Performer EPS intake manifold operating RPM range is Idle to 5500...

My Edelbrock Performer eps intake manifold should be about just right for this camshaft correct?

I think it is just fine for your 305. Remember this is just a patch up repair so engine will run on all cylinders without noises - not any kind of a perfection high performance build. My advice is to not spend any more on this 305 than you have to - at least until you have made it through the cam break in and see what you have as a result. Still need to check those valve guides.

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2001Blazer4x4

· #389 · 4 mo ago

Tynan918 said:
Are you referring to the the stud that didn't break ? I haven't attempted to remove it. As far as the broken stud, it broke where the nut met the flange. I have that nut with a piece of stud attached to it in hand from the broken stud.

That side of Manifold connects to the exhaust Y pipe, which crosses over to the passenger side along the oil pan to the other Y pipe to manifold connection that is straight piped all the way to the back bumper...I have a single exhaust pipe on the passenger side...

I'll shoot a video today for a visual.

By this, do you mean remove the manifold completely from the engine bay and Y pipe ? To drill out the stud from the manifold to y pipe holes ?

I figure that since you obviously can't turn the nut on the remaining stud to adjust the depth correctly for a new donut, you will want to replace both studs. Since one is broken off already, you could go ahead and drill out that hole, putting in a bolt with nut on top (providing there is room for the nut and bolt on the back side, and I think there is room) - but you have to remove the manifold to do that. If you can soak in penetrating oil, the remaining stud may come out of the manifold clean and you can replace it with a stud, only having to drill out one side.

Alternatively, if you can just get the manifold off, an exhaust shop could make short work of fixing one or both bolt holes (preserving threads) and provide the new studs.

On the exhaust manifold, I'm talking about the small pipe that screws into the manifold right above the flange in the right side of your photo. Not the exhaust pipe.

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2001Blazer4x4

· #390 · 4 mo ago

Tynan check additions in post 388.

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eric32

· #391 · 4 mo ago

The EPS intake is a good intake manifold and actually sits higher then the edelbrock performer intake and also higher then entry level idle to 5500 rpm intake manifold on the market. It is a 1/4 inch higher then almost every idle to 5500 rpm rated dual plane intake from what I have seen measurement wise from the Jegs and Summit brand intakes to the Weiand street warrior and in a Hotrod article it made more torque and slight amount of more power vs other 5500 rpm intakes.

The difference is nothing a seat dyno will notice though. The EPS is a half inch shorter then the edelbrock performer rpm intake and rpm air gap intake. In my opinion the EPS is a very good intake and for a camshaft size that the rpm tops off around low 5000 rpm it will be more then enough for a daily cruiser and the intake matches quite well with the 1205 felpro intake gaskets well and matches up good with 180cc intake ports on most aftermarket heads. If using a cam with an intake lobe duration @50 that is around 220 or less then it should be enough if its something just to cruise with especially if hood clearance is an issue.

Its a heck of a lot better then any stock intake that is for sure and I have used it many times on several builds over the years and it ran just fine and swapping it out to the edelbrock rpm intake gained me nothing in how it ran and responded and felt no different on the top end and that was with a 219/[email protected] 50 hydraulic roller cam with a 112 lsa.

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eric32

· #392 · 4 mo ago

Here is an article on dual plane intake manifolds and is pretty surprising how well the numbers turned out. Dyno vs real world results will vary I am sure but it kind of gives a good idea between the brands. The EPS did quite well compared to others and not even ten horsepower difference between most of the 6500 rpm intakes.

www.motortrend.com

Dual Plane Intake Manifold Comparisons - Car Craft Magazine

A well-designed dual-plane intake can improve torque, add horsepower, and make that otherwise stock engine look a little more aggressive. This is why we have decided to provide you with several Dual Plane Intake Manifold Comparisons.

www.motortrend.com

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Tynan918

Discussion Starter · #393 · 4 mo ago

2

I'm going to use new exhaust manifold bolts to mount the manifolds to the engine block...

These are the bolts I used last time, are these the appropriate grade I should be using ?

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If not, they have these Fel Pro branded, but they're $45 for a set...

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I will if I have to, I will...I just don't want another bolt breaking in the cylinder head.

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eric32

· #394 · 4 mo ago

Make sure to use some never seize on those bolts before putting them back in the heads. Every single bolt that goes into my heads and intake gets never seize on them if they don't go into a coolant passage. Don't matter if iron or aluminum I always do that to keep from bolts getting corrosion and then have a hard time coming out. Good luck on your exhaust

55_327

· #395 · 4 mo ago

I wonder if brass nuts like this are less prone to getting frozen to the studs? By having so many threads, they are certainly less prone to stripping. I've used them a lot over the years, but can't say I ever loosened one that had been intsalled for more than a few years.

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2001Blazer4x4

· #396 · 4 mo ago

Here is how to tell grade of the bolts. The Dorman ones are grade 8.

Bolt Depot - Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart

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Tynan918

Discussion Starter · #397 · 4 mo ago

2001Blazer4x4 said:
I figure that since you obviously can't turn the nut on the remaining stud to adjust the depth correctly for a new donut, you will want to replace both studs. Since one is broken off already, you could go ahead and drill out that hole, putting in a bolt with nut on top (providing there is room for the nut and bolt on the back side, and I think there is room) - but you have to remove the manifold to do that. If you can soak in penetrating oil, the remaining stud may come out of the manifold clean and you can replace it with a stud, only having to drill out one side.

Alternatively, if you can just get the manifold off, an exhaust shop could make short work of fixing one or both bolt holes (preserving threads) and provide the new studs.

On the exhaust manifold, I'm talking about the small pipe that screws into the manifold right above the flange in the right side of your photo. Not the exhaust pipe.

BogiesAnnex1

· #398 · 4 mo ago

I use nothing but stainless fasteners in exhaust systems from bolting the manifold or header flange to the cylinder head to the last clamp on the pipe. This totally eliminates the rusty bolt problems. Especially when you live where they salt the roads.

A cost reducing effort can be to at least use stainless or brass nuts on steel compression clamps.

Bogie

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Tynan918

Discussion Starter · #399 · 4 mo ago

2001Blazer4x4 said:
Still need to check those valve guides.

How do I check the valve guides with everything assembled?

2001Blazer4x4

· #400 · 4 mo ago

Tynan918 said:
How do I check the valve guides with everything assembled?

Only need to do this if you still have ticking noises when you are done with cam break in. Engine has to be running. Does a tick go away or change when you lightly pry the valve retainer towards the center of the head with a big screwdriver. A messy job but very fast way of finding noisy valve guides. Let's hope that is not a bridge you will need to cross and that all will be quiet. Remember I tried to get you to do this before taking things apart but you jumped the gun. But with the bad cam lobes I think you probably found the source of your noises.

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