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Looks like I need to cut the back china wall gasket just a bit to lay down the passenger side intake manifold gasket tab flush.
View attachment 628726
Intake gasket should fit behind the end seal. Since they are now glued on, only cut enough off to slide the gasket behind the end seal and then a little dab of silicone right before intake goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #445 ·
OK...big day today and I feel accomplished...

I got my intake manifold installed...

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I got the exhaust manifolds put back on...new gaskets, new bolts, torqued to 25 ft lbs...

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I also have the starter back in...didn't take a pic of it, but it's also new.

Supposed to rain tomorrow and be a bit more chiller, but the cork valve cover gaskets come tomorrow, and I still need to install the fuel pump.

From there:

1. priming the oil pump.
2. install spark plugs
3. set TDC and drop, plug in, and set the distributor.
4. install spark plug wires.
5. install the water pump.
6. install the radiator.
7. connect coolant hoses.
8. add coolant.
9. install battery
10. install and pre tune the carburetor.
11. connect emissions hoses.
12. install the valve covers, fill it with break in oil and about a quart of other oil.
13. pour some gas down the carburetor snout.
14. and fire her up for break in at 2000-2500 for 25-30 minutes.
 

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I did.

I did two sequences, first sequence was 15 ft lbs and the second round 25 ft lbs.
Looks like good work. Don't be surprised if you need to tighten the exhaust y-pipe after the break in. Has been formed to that additional metal donut for a while. Don't let an exhaust leak stop the break in. I wouldn't worry about the other side if it doesn't leak. Worst case, pull it apart later and used some exhaust pipe sealer.

Go over the intake one more time tomorrow.

You are set to prime the oil system!
 

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Only one I have experience with is the can.

Just so you know, this is probably the stuff your pan gasket was stuck on with. (with apparently excessive amounts!)

Are you sure you actually need a donut? Looks like the manifold already has a sealing bevel (donut) built into it. Some were like that. How does it fit the pipe without the donut? Look at the photo where the new donut is sitting on top. Seems like the previous owner put an extra part in there, and that's why the studs weren't long enough?
Now you'll need a super deep.socket to tighten them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #453 ·
How can I add the break in oil with the valve covers removed ? Through the distributor hole with a long funnel ?

Or just put on the drivers side valve cover with an old gasket and add the oil ?
 

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I'll get them switched to the shorter bolts after cam break in if it is too big of a leak.
STOP!!! If the exhaust manifolds are still like in your photos above (with the bolts tightened), it's going to leak so bad that it's not going to get through the break in. Fix it now, if the manifolds aren't pulling in to the cylinder heads. Probably why that one bolt previously broke off - was bottomed in the bolt hole when you tried to tighten it up. I think you need a different set of bolts. Measure the thickness of the manifold at the bolt hole and add 1/2 inch.

I'm not talking about the two studs around the donut. Im taking about the 6 bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head.
 

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Exhaust manifold bolts holes in the head are blind, unlike the other intake and head bolt holes themselves. The exhaust takes only a 3/4 inch long thread. They do not need to be grade 8 bolts, grade 5 is sufficient. I only use stainless steel, but I’ve been through the why’s of the extra money.

Your next big tasks will be setting the final preload on the lifters and getting the distributor timed.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #460 ·
STOP!!! If the exhaust manifolds are still like in your photos above (with the bolts tightened), it's going to leak so bad that it's not going to get through the break in. Fix it now, if the manifolds aren't pulling in to the cylinder heads. Probably why that one bolt previously broke off - was bottomed in the bolt hole when you tried to tighten it up. I think you need a different set of bolts. Measure the thickness of the manifold at the bolt hole and add 1/2 inch.

I'm not talking about the two studs around the donut. Im taking about the 6 bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head.
When I took that photo, I didn't have them tightened down all the way I just had the bolt started and the gaskets laid on the bolts and the only thing I had to do was tighten them down.

Just now looking at the pictures I uploaded, that was before I realized they were too long and I added washers to tighten them down securely.

They are secure now. I watched and heard them press against the head as they started to tighten up.
 
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