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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys i got old carburetor rebuilt but i had to remove all vacumn lines in my haste i didnt mark the vacuum lines i took pictures well the pictures arent quite clear enough does anyone know how these lines are to be setup i have no smog pump i deleted this due to no catalytic converter this is legal in ohio and transmission is a th350 does anyone know where i can find a clear diagram This is my first electronic carb rebuild also after carb was rebuilt due to it spewing fuel allover the engine im having major throttle delay at any point of acceleration heavier than quarter throttle and engime stalls when stopped uphill unless throttle is slightly held open im thinking either misadjusted electric choke or bad vacuum line setup help guys please not alotta information on the vacuum lines online
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No the check engine light has been doing this since as well mind you this is a rear whleel drive cutlass turn the engine over thw light fashes and ends with the same code then stops flashing until key is tuned back and engine resarted then repeats and when driving no also i believe oil pump is worn out low oil pressure at ligh
tz by light and guage
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It flashes 13 twice then no longer flashes until car is restared ive never seen this before also after flashing stops carb clicks heavily for a few seconds and stops until throttle is reopened could tps be bad also fast idle for ac i dont believe is functioning my ac doesnt funtion anyway but im at a loss on ths carb was proffesionally rebuilt by national carbs supposedly live engine tuned i believe its carb i dont think it ignition because revs fine out of gear in gear it fa
lls flat on face
 

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It flashes 13 twice then no longer flashes until car is restared ive never seen this before also after flashing stops carb clicks heavily for a few seconds and stops until throttle is reopened could tps be bad also fast idle for ac i dont believe is functioning my ac doesnt funtion anyway but im at a loss on ths carb was proffesionally rebuilt by national carbs supposedly live engine tuned i believe its carb i dont think it ignition because revs fine out of gear in gear it fa
lls flat on face
Code 13 is an oxygen sensor problem, either the sensor or the wiring to it.
The carb will"click" for about 30 seconds when first turning on the key. It is normal. It is the Mixture solenoid cycling on and off.The computer is doing that, it helps engine on start up.
Vacuum hoses arent going to cause your problem, unless they are leaking. Plugging them wont change much.
The MAP sensor though, ...has to have manifold vacuum, and if it is unhooked the car will run rich and without much timing.
Check the MAP sensor to be sure it is hooked up.
Plug the EGR hose for the time being to eliminate it from the loop.
Verify base timing.
I have a hunch the float level may be too low also. How did you set it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I personally did not rebuild the carb i sent it out to be rebuilt i did make the final adjustment also im confused on the map sensor ive been to ld this engine doesnt have one by my local parts stores
 

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It could be built into the Computer.
Look athe wiring harness for the engine sensors. There could be a tiny vacuum hose in it. That will go to the computer as the sensor could be built in. Those early years were a formative bunch for GM as they didnt have it all together, so it can be a guessing game.
Most of the time the sensor is underhood.Many years they were mounted on the air cleaner housing
 

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I found the map sensor its on air cleaner the tubing looks good my question is how to check it
If its hooked up, and in place, plugged in and all, its probably OK.
You could check for trouble codes. If it has a problem it will display a code 33.
You can, if you want, unplug it while the engine is running. It should make it run worse. That would indicate that it is probably working.
just remember unplugging it while running will set a code 33.
Look here for more info on T codes.
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
Good info ....may help
 

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No. float adjustment as well as most of the others are made with carb opened up. Fine tuning can be done by accessing adjusters through some of the holes in the carb.
Have you checked the base tining?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks to your great help i decided to open the carb up only to find you were correct the adjustment screw was 2 full turns below what the chiltons book specified no thanks 2 national carbuertor sometimes your better off to do it yourself ehh? I did also discover i may have a blown head gasket on one side due to the factho t i just put new plugs in the thing even though the previous owner had sworn hed put new plugs in well in my search to find answers i discovered that cylinder 5 has some pitting on it around the base is this a for sure sign or could this be from bad valve guides some sort of oil seepage it wasa little bit of white ash on the very tip thanks again latech
:D
 
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