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Discussion Starter #1
I have recently acquired a nice Monte Carlo. My Dad bought one new in 1987 for my Mom, and I have always loved them since they came out.
This one is bone stock, and pretty much Immaculate. She has 105K on the clock, and someone has done a pretty nice paint job in the last couple of years.
I turned 16 in 1987, and took my driving test in our family car. My brother still has it, and it runs, but he has not cared for it like someone did for this one. This thing is nice, doesn't drip, doesn't smoke, not a lick of rust on it. I even removed 8 bolts on the Catalytic Converter yesterday with a 1/4 inch air ratchet. (After I broke them loose, of course...)
The old car sure seemed quick back then, but this one is a real Dog... So, soon I will be recieving my Dart Block 427 from ole Skippy. Its supposed to ship tomorrow, actually. Also, I have ordered a Top End from Straub, he says will put me right around 650 all in under 6500rpm. I think he is using the Pro Header Casting, but not for sure on that yet. But he did say something about a new guy working for him that came from HVH, or Trick Flow. I forget which one, its been about a month since I talked to him...
But anyway, I have some suspension parts coming from SouthSide Machine Performance, took a trip down to Florida this weekend and picked up a GN Posi Rear End.
So as you can tell, I'm gonna be busy this Winter!
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That'll be a nice ride.Sounds like you've got all the ingredients

My Mom had a '84 Monte SS bought in '85, the year I graduated HS. Hers was a special order driven for a year by the dealership salesman...it was the standard 180HP 305, F41 suspension, TH-350C and 3.42 gear. Dark Blue exterior, Blue bucket interior
It was quick by new car standards of the day, with only a few cars like Mustang GT and Buick Grand National being faster(it was just as quick as a Camaro SS that year, I raced a couple of those and ran neck /neck with them....don't tell mom LOL)
Stil just a 15 second 1/4 mile ride though....but what i liked was it handled great. All it needed was a HP boost( and a beefy rear axle) and it could have been a great car.

If you really want to do it up, look into boxing the open frame under the rocker panels/doors, it'll really stiffen it up. You can even buy kits to do it nowdays.

You'll have to fabricate or buy a trans crossmember that will allow true dual exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
G Force trans crossmember got ordered today.
They are known to be a pretty beefy unit weighing in at about 25 pounds or so. I went ahead and ordered the new style which is supposed to be about half the weight.

Chris told me about a few other things he's working on. One of them was very reasonable, but a little bit too much for me and just a hair over my budget. But he was talking about 750 plus horsepower from a large cubic inch small block. These packages are going to be ready early 2021. He said that it will definitely be worth waiting for!
 

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That has 200-4R in it correct? What's your plan with that?

Nice car - it's a beauty. It will need some cooling system help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That has 200-4R in it correct? What's your plan with that?

Nice car - it's a beauty. It will need some cooling system help as well.
Yep, 2004r.
There is a guy in Raleigh, about an hour away who specializes in GM Overdrives. He built the 700r4 in my truck, and it works very well. Lots of Billet parts inside. Runs 12s at the track, and cruises in 4th gear, with the converter locked. Even down to 1400 or so RPMs. No bucking, chugging, or any ill affects.
I hear a lot of bad things about overdrive transmission's here, especially behind performance motors... But I have not seen it myself. The Vortec 350 with the 276HR I had in the truck before, behaved the same way, this 406 now just makes a little more power. Truck has 3.90s with a 28 inch tall tire. MC has about the same size tire, but the Grand Nationals came with a 3.42. So I may change that when I rebuild the Posi unit, or i might just run it and change it later if necessary. This 427 will make gobs of torque, and I always liked the way tall gears pull so good on the highway. But then again, a 4.10 would be about perfect too!
Also, the guy in Florida had a HUGE radiator in his MC. He said it held about 3 gallons. I think he said it was a Griffin...
 

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You won't hear anything bad from me about an OD. Cars are made to be driven IMO. 200's are about the best OD bet for big power in cruisers that aren't computer controlled - just NOT in stock form. And considering your car was built with the best 200-4R made, it's a great place to start. The are many good parts available for your trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
First Mod!
Well, actually the second one. The other day I whacked off the tail pipes and mufflers and put my 3-inch Dynomax on it. But yesterday I got my new kit in the mail.
I rounded off the tips, and Polished the part you can see when it is installed.
527127
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Got an email from Skippy today. My 7.0 SBC is on the pallet, and headed my way! Looks like I'm gonna learn how to file fit rings...
Was thinking about just paying a little more coin to have them assemble it, but what kind of fun is that?
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Are those the year one 17" n90 wheels?
If so, can you put a straight edge on the wheel lip, and a tape measure on the lug nut area, so I can get an idea of the dish of the wheel face.
I like the 15" rims because of the way they look and the dish of them helps make the look,
All the photo's of the year ones 17" wheels look like the wheel face is somewhat flat.
Cool ride.
Are you going to gusset the rear end link mounts on the frame.
I remember as a young lad ,walking past a dealer and looking at them , and crapping myself at the 17k sticker price.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Are those the year one 17" n90 wheels?
If so, can you put a straight edge on the wheel lip, and a tape measure on the lug nut area, so I can get an idea of the dish of the wheel face.
I like the 15" rims because of the way they look and the dish of them helps make the look,
All the photo's of the year ones 17" wheels look like the wheel face is somewhat flat.
Cool ride.
Are you going to gusset the rear end link mounts on the frame.
I remember as a young lad ,walking past a dealer and looking at them , and crapping myself at the 17k sticker price.
Yep 17s.
I can check on the wheels when I get back to the shop. I've got new upper, and lower control arms on the way for the rear. I will look into strengthening it when I install them.
As for the price, it was kind of high back then. If I remember correctly Corvettes were about 30k?
My buddy's dad bought one, it was the fastest car around! His mom had a Mustang GT, that thing was King of the high school parking lot when his Dad wouldn't let him drive the Corvette!
 

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I'm a huge G-body freak. GM parts-bin upgrades galore. They're already drilled for nearly any GM engine and trans combo. I've had 4 of them. One 442 and three El Caminos.

Once you get past the front suspension geometry and the wheezer-era hp, they're great cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My Dart Block, with balanced Scat Rotating assembly showed up today.
I am seriously thinking of carrying it in to the machine shop to have them install the bearings, and measure for me. They did this on the last motor I built, and I feel really safe knowing they were measured and matched correctly to the rods, and main caps.
Does this sound like a good idea?
I have a couple other choices, one being slap it together and check with plastigage. Or two, buy the proper measuring tools and hope I read them correctly.
What would you do?
Also what is a good ring filer to buy?
Thanks in advance!
Another thing, it came with King Bearings, are these good for street use? I remember they split shells to get good clearance on my last one. Hopefully the bearings wont slow them down...
 

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Having the machine shop check bearing clearances is an excellent idea. And then still check their work with plastigage if you assemble it yourself.

I've used basic ring filers from Summit and they work fine. An electric one would be much better (easier), but I couldn't justify the expense for a several sets of rings. If I was setting ring gaps weekly, then I'd have an electric one.

King bearings are fine - I've used them twice without issue. It's not like your motor is going to spin a bearing if you use them lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks.
I like the fact it will be done right, and I won't have to worry.
I have the machine shop on retainer like an attorney already. LOL!
They are only about 45 minutes away.
 

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Yes, it came balanced. I paid a little extra for block prep too. Things like cam bearings, and freeze plugs installed. Rods are clearanced too.
So it came with a harmonic balncer and flex plate?
My Scott Shafiroff came with an SFI spec ATI balancer and SFI flex plate, balanced with the rotating kit
 
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