[LATECH]

When it is cold, after setting all night, remove the air cleaner.Look at the throttle body , get a good light on it so you can watch for fuel spray.
Have a buddy, or the wife, crank it to see if it is spraying fuel or not at first start.


If not, then check for injector pulse.(You can usually hear them clicking on and off) or check with a NOID light.


If the pulse is there, then you need to verify that the fuel system is powering up, and then subsequently making fuel pressure.


It kinda sounds like the fuel system is losing its prime overnight. Even though the fuel pump is new, it could have a bad check valve and not hold pressure due to this.
Also the regulator could be leaking pressure off overnight and allowing the fuel lines to empty, leaving only vapor(AIR), which would necessitate fuel in the entire line from the tank to the engine Hence the long crank/hard start first start of the day.
You will need to get a fuel pressure gauge with a range of 0-15 PSI to accurately check fuel pressure on a TBI system as the normal pressure is around 13PSI. A small variation of just a 1 Psi or 2Psi will not show accurately on a fuel pressure gauge with a higher pressure reading as with a 100 PSI gauge for example, can have a tolerance (innacuray) of several Psi so.....


I have, in the past, cycled the key on then off 5 or 6 ttimes in a row (not to the start position) cycling the ECMs 2 second pulse for the fuel pump to prime the system after which the car started almost as normal. It proved out the fuel system prime theory and gave me some direction to go with my diagnostic routine.
So you could try that as well after checking for lack of fuel spray at the TBI

It is possible that the ECM (or computer) is not cycling the fuel pump relay when first turning the key on, which would make a hard start first thing as well.So listen for the fuel pump relay when first turning the key on. AND , just because a relay clicks on and off DOESNT mean it is powering up the pump circuit so you may need to verify that as well.


What was the "soft" code you were reffering to?


Here is how to get codes without a scanner:


OBD Diagnostics


The section you want to use is the "paper clip method" section.
When retrieving codes payclose attention to the blinks when it is broadcasting them. Getting out of sequence with the flash codes is a common mistake and muddies the "Diagnostic Waters" LOL


I know this is a lot of info thrown at you all at once, but just read through it , take it one step at a time. Write down the results on a checklist (paper) so you have an active record of what is going on

 

[LATECH]

Recap:

1 check TBI for fuel spray
2 check fuel pump relay action
3 verify fuel pump relay is powering up the circuit
4 hook up fuel pressure gauge verify when cold (after setting overnight) that pressure comes up as fast as required and is also to spec when running
5 Monitor pressure when driving at RPM range that driveability issue occurs
6 perform code retrieval as outlined in the link Paper clip method section


You are lucky. A simple TBI EFI, paper clip diagnostics .....


Some of the OBDII Can systems can be a challenge LOL


Keep us posted......... LA

 

[LATECH]

12 will be no distributor reference pulse (because dizzy aint turning so...)
It (code 12 ) is used as well to determine the start of self test readout
32 is EGR system. Shop manual says to fix any other codes stored FIRST.
So....the code 22 TPS.......the fact it has a TPS code would be enough for me to change it.
Be sure the wiring up to the TPS isn't melted inside where it is taped first.
Without a TPS value, or if the value is intermittent, it could surely cause driveability issues.
If the code 22 is fixed and you still have an EGR code , then proceed to repair the 32.

 

[LATECH]

Drop the trans pan and change the filter. Refill. Then do a closed loop fluid exchange.
Don't use any so called "flush" chemicals. ATF is high detergent fluid.
Flush chemicals ....who Knows?....

 

[LATECH]

Well, Hard start is still there, cant find any leaks. Will i have to replace the entire pump/sending unit or can i just replace the pump? And i got the complete overhaul kit so i hope its not the wrong regulator. It was doing thjis before i replaced it. SES light hasnt came back on yet though so thats a plus, mainly just the hard start now.

Several years ago I had an 89 that came in to be checked out for a very similar problem.
Took some looking to find it, but....and I am not saying yours will be the same but....I found the wire to the pickup coil in the distributor were corroded almost in two. I replaced it and it must have been the problem because it fixed it.
Funny thing is it still had spark but wouldn't spray the injectors.
Must have been sending a signal that was too weak to Feed the Ignition and the ECM
That being said, the TBI system is very good at startup especially cold as it sprays the fuel, promoting atomization, unlike a carb that requires the fuel be siphoned through small orifices in the carb before it even atomizes .
A TBI is a very dependable cold starting system even in the face of -25 degrees and better.
I wouldn't worry about any timing chain problems at this point as it is a dual row chain and not the morse silent type. The dual row is used in roller cam engines because it is less prone to allow timing fluctuations due to design alone.
I would try spraying down the throttle and then try to start it first thing in the morning to see what you get.If it starts with a spray then fuel is lacking for some reason.
It would really benefit the diagnostic routine if you had a pressure gauge on the system to verify cold startup pressure or lack of, or slow to build pressure.
Better to diagnose than to throw parts at it.


One other option for cold startup fuel starvation (a presumptive test) would be to turn the key on don't crank, wait 2 seconds. This cycles the fuel pump by using the ECM 2 second pulse that turns the fuel pump on to prime the system. You can cycle the key 4-5 times. Be sure to listen to be sure the fuel pump relay is indeed cycling. Then after that see if you get a decent cold startup.
If that seems to help the startup situation the it is likely the pump check valve is not holding or the line in the tank between the pump and the fuel outlet line is leaking.


At any rate you really need to nail down if your cold start problem is fuel related.
Be sure the fuel pump relay will cycle and that it is powering the circuit
Get a fuel gauge and hook it up.
Stop guessing at it.