[jaw22w]

OK. One more 9" Ford question, if you don't mind.
I have my new 9" housing ready to go in. All brackets are in place and waiting for the paint to dry. When I installed the center section, I used Right Stuff instead of a gasket, which I think is accepted practice. My question is whether or not to use those copper washers? I went to U-Tube U and watched a few videos. Some used them and some did not. Is the copper washer for leak stop purposes? I went around each stud with Right Stuff, so wouldn't expect any leaks. I didn't have the copper washers so i used soft SS 3/8" AN washers.
So, do you guys use the copper washers?
Thanks guys.

 

[lmsport]

leave em out unless 100 point restoration

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

Not using the gasket changes the pinion position in relation to the ring gear. You need to check that with grease paint in the gear teeth.

Bogie

 

[jaw22w]

Not using the gasket changes the pinion position in relation to the ring gear. You need to check that with grease paint in the gear teeth.

Bogie

Bogie, I hate to argue with your seemingly endless wisdom in all things automotive. But I just don't see how that could happen with a 9" ford where the whole center section, pinion and ring gear, slides in as a unit. Though I have been wrong before.

 

[big gear head]

The gasket has nothing at all to do with the pinion depth or ring gear. It does however change the relationship between the center line of the housing and the center line of the differential.

I use LubeLocker gasket on mine and I like it very much. LubeLocker LLR-C900 LubeLocker Differential Cover Gaskets | Summit Racing I believe it's going to be difficult to remove that chunk with it glued in with that right stuff sealant. I do not use copper washers, but I do put RTV sealant on steel washers and then install them. The copper washers are difficult to remove after they have been crushed by the nuts.

 

[lmsport]

on race car diffs that get removed alot I drill and tap a couple 1/4-20 holes in the bolt flange area to make removing the diff easy---just thread a couple bolts into the holes and push the diff out of the housing.

 

[jaw22w]

The gasket has nothing at all to do with the pinion depth or ring gear. It does however change the relationship between the center line of the housing and the center line of the differential.

I use LubeLocker gasket on mine and I like it very much. LubeLocker LLR-C900 LubeLocker Differential Cover Gaskets | Summit Racing I believe it's going to be difficult to remove that chunk with it glued in with that right stuff sealant. I do not use copper washers, but I do put RTV sealant on steel washers and then install them. The copper washers are difficult to remove after they have been crushed by the nuts.

Sealant on the washers. Gotcha!
I had black silicone and right stuff. I was thinking optimistically that I would never have to get in there again. Yeah, it will be a pain in the butt to get back off though.

on race car diffs that get removed alot I drill and tap a couple 1/4-20 holes in the bolt flange area to make removing the diff easy---just thread a couple bolts into the holes and push the diff out of the housing.

OH!. I wish I had read this before I stuck the chunk in. Good thinkin'.

 

[AutoGear]

on race car diffs that get removed alot I drill and tap a couple 1/4-20 holes in the bolt flange area to make removing the diff easy---just thread a couple bolts into the holes and push the diff out of the housing.

We used to do this on intakes too...Golly that Right Stuff is stubborn

 

[ekimneirbo]

If you think about it , I have to wonder why the studs leak on a 9" when a gasket is not only surrounding where the pumpkin slides in, but has an individual hole for each stud.......but obviously they do. I would say if you didn't use a gasket but used sealer instead, as long as it surrounds the studs it "should" not need the copper gaskets.

 

[lmsport]

The head of the studs is exposed to the oil, it just wicks around the stud and out.