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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So has anyone ever bought one of the 9-inch rear ends from Currie? I've done a lot of research and I know there are alot of different discussions about the 8-in. vs. the 9-in. I'm putting a 302 in my '66 Mustang that I know makes nowhere near 400hp, but I have a lot of plans for down the road where I may hit that 400hp point. Like a lot of projects, they may not never come to be but I would like to already have the rear-end in place if I do ever reach that goal. I've been looking locally for a 9-in. that will bolt right up but their getting to be kind of hard to find around here. I saw this on Currie:


  • Currie Centurion 9-Inch Notchback Housing For Mustang And Cougar
  • Currie Performance 31-Spline Axles With Wheel Studs
  • Timken Axle Bearings (Shipped Loose)

SKU: CE-FDM6466X

Unfinished, Ready for Paint Satin Black Powder Coat (CE-0091H1) [+$200.00] Gloss Black Powder Coat (CE-0091H3) [+$200.00]
$1,255.00

I'm going to keep looking for one locally that would be cheaper to buy and rebuild. But in the event that I cant find one, does anyone have a opinion about these?
 

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There are at least a dozen companies offering bolt in housings in that same price range.
You won't save much taking a junkyard housing and having it modified.
Don't bother with the F8 as it doesn't cost anything less to build one.
 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, from everything I've read, it would cost about the same to build up a 8-inch as it would to just buy a 9-inch. And trying the right length has been a pain. I've found two or three but they were not the right length.
 

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While thats not a bad price, it isn't going to come with the brake drums, and backing plates. You will do better if you can find a "complete" used unit. That way you have all the brake parts and a third member to build . Costs will not be cheap, but if you buy just a housing, you pay dearly for all those other things. You will probably have to buy drums , shoes, and wheel cylinders anyway. Then shorten the housing. You will find that the larger housings work better and a truck housing can be found with 31 splines. I would buy a Detroit Tru Track from Summit. They don't have clutches to wear out like the stock Ford posi. Go to Amazon and purchase a book called "Ford Differentials". It will save you money. The thing is that there are a lot of variations in the Ford rears......like 3 different brake widths. You need to know this kind of stuff before ordering replacement parts.
 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the advice. I’m still looking and maybe I will stumble across one. Like I said, I’ve found two but they were too long. I didn’t want to go through the hassle of having to have them cut and shortened but I guess that’s always an option.
 

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Lots of luck finding a 9" that doesn't need narrowing. I wouldn't recommend a 8" . The 8" (with 3.50 gear) in my '65 Falcon Ranchero survived a 306hp Shelby 350 engine but I didn't abuse it, had a few 14.5 sec quarter miles. Something you might find that is the correct width is a 1990+ Ford Ranger with a V6 and 8.8" rear end. It is also easy and cheap to adapt '94-04' Mustang disk brakes.
 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just spoke with the guy and I’m going to try go take a look at it tomorrow evening. He said that it measured 57 inches from plate to plate so I’m hoping it will be a direct fit for my 66.
 

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If it’s 57 inches plate to plate it’ll be about 62-63 inches wide from wheel mount surface to wheel mount surface.
Your mustang is 57.25 measured to the wheel mount surface.
Here’s a chart for widths.


 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
He was asking $200. I was thinking I could change the axles out of it was the wrong bolt pattern. And if it is 62” long, couldn’t I have the housing shortened?
 

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'Way back in the nineties I came across a 28-spline 9" rear in a '68 Cougar and grabbed it for $75, those were still the days I guess, I pulled the stock 8" out of my wife's 67 Mustang and stuck it in there for no good reason except it had bigger brakes plus it was easier to get a centersection with gears we needed for doing lots of highway driving at the time. Funny thing though, one of the axles was bad and it turned out the one from the 8" was a direct swap. It just made me think, if the bigger rear used the same axles maybe it wasn't all that much stronger. Of-course when you move up to 31 spline that would be different. BTW it seems like early Bronco rears were about the same width, with different brackets and bolt pattern.

There was a guy near here selling what he said was a Mexican-market early-Mustang Dana 44 for a while. Nothin' wrong w/ an 8.5" D44 in a light car. I wonder if a Cherokee unit would fit...maybe too wide...
 

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High Performance Rear Ends
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If it’s 57 inches plate to plate it’ll be about 62-63 inches wide from wheel mount surface to wheel mount surface.
Your mustang is 57.25 measured to the wheel mount surface.
Here’s a chart for widths.


I don't know about the Ford and Mopar stuff, but there is a lot of WRONG information on the Chevy rear ends on that chart. Be very careful. I've been trying to find the source of that chart for years to get it corrected.
 

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Since you don't have much experience with this stuff, here is a way you can do it. First thing is you need to know what type of ends that aftermarket housing comes with. There are several different types, and that determines the correct wheel bearing the axle will need. It will also determine which backing plate will fit. The aftermarket seller probably gives you a choice of which one you need.

Once you know what you want or need, buy the complete used rearend and use the drums and backing plates on the aftermarket unit you purchased. If you know ahead of time that you can get whichever housing end you want, then just order one that matches the used rearend. You can also use the differential out of the used rear. That leaves you in possession of a used rear end housing and its axles.

Hem haw a little and offer the guy $150 for the rear. After you have gotten what you need from it, sell the axles and housing on Facebook. You can usually get $75/$100 for just those parts. Then you have a new housing, new axles with new bearings and seals. It has the correct bolt pattern and you have most of the brake stuff. Since you know where there are two other rear ends, I would ask if any of them are 31 splines. Which ever one (if any)has 31 splines, thats the one I would buy. Then you will have the stronger 31 spline unit and your aftermarket unit can be bought with those axles. If none have 31, then a 28 is still pretty good. The thing is that by getting 31 splines, you can upgrade your differential later with a posi that has 31 splines too. You just have to make sure which parts are available in order to make things fit each other.

So, quickly.......31 splines if you can find one
Avle ends will determine which axle bearings are needed and which backing plates and drums will fit
616366

616367

616368

616369

616370

616371

616372

There, that should help.
 
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