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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Only problem is no motor or trans to test wires, striped vehicle for new power plant. Wanted to get wiring done so I could "plug and play"....lol wiring obviously is not my strong point.... This and the heater are my last obsticals before test fitting motor and trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Perfect, I will wire it up just like that. Thanks brother! I've been looking for a while to find out if orange is hot in run only, where do you find your info....Google searches and schematics have me running in circles.

So i understand, on mine the Orange wire is hot in run and also fused.

Gray is not hot until engine is running. But I'll have to double check once I get motor running?

Thx again!
 

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Get my info from my head and using the diagram you provided....lol

According to your diagram, I assume your orange wire is hot in run and fused. Once you get the battery back in and use a multimeter and verify that's what it is.

The gray wire will be hot in "run", may or may not be hot in "start".
The new wire from the starter will only be hot in "start"
The wire (grey?) that actually connects to the fuel pump will be hot in "run" and "start"
 

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If you wanted..... using a 3 pole oil safety switch, it is possible to eliminate the relay in your application.

Using the old 2 pole oil safety switch you must use a relay.

The relay is used if you don't have a heavy enough gage wire from the ignition switch to carry the load of the fuel pump thru the ignition switch etc..... In my case that's what I had to do, In my original diagram I had a separate fused 12 supply wire because the wire wasn't heavy enough from my ign switch etc.... It appears from your diagram, the yours was wired from the factory with a heavey gage wire etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks for the info, every time I go to close the door on this issue another one opens! Lol Do you think in my application it is necessary to have a relay? It looks like all the wires are the same gage. And there was already a relay and three prong in my old application? Just wondering, but as long as I keep the safety system that's all I care about! So if there is a better way I'm all ears!

I have a new wire I need help with, I'm assuming the wires all have the same value as before but just for shyts and giggles I traced back the wire from the fuel pump, there is a purple thin wire which is the sender wire for the gauge and a thick gray wire, when I follow this up, it goes into the firewall all by itself. So I'm assuming it's spliced behind the firewall into the other gray wires....at least this is what I gather from the schematics? But it is considerably thicker that the normal wires so it has to be for the fuel pump power.
 

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On a bosh type relay terminals 85 and 86 are interchangeable, they are the leads for the coil that energizes and closes the contacts in the relay.
EOD Guy has done an excellent job in helping you with your wiring problems. But there are relays out there that have a diode across the relay coil and those are polarity specific. I just finished wiring the headlights in my 76 Corvette using two of those style relays and terminal 85 is positive and 86 is negative.
 

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Your guess is probably correct, but you have to check the gray wire for continuity all the way up to the existing relay and the oil press switch. If you don't KNOW where each and every existing wire starts and stops and what it's connected to...... very possible to short something out when you start re-wiring/modifying the existing system etc....... Once you let the smoke out of a wire it's impossible to get it back in.

Your choice on the relay, as you are having a little difficulty understand the existing system, I'd modify/replace the existing relay and oil press switch..... once that works correctly you can play around with eliminating the existing relay etc.....
 
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