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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I grabbed a 2wd 94 s10 that had a junk 2.2, 5 speed and then started cutting and welding. Despite everything else being modified I left the IFS (and glass) alone. The front end is perfect just how it is. The front "small" calipers will also work just fine.

Before I build custom length crossover steering it would be a good idea to replace the rusted control arms, bushings, springs, brakes and spindles.

This thing is a 94 and when I bought it the thing was being parted. The frame ended up having 9" hole right in the middle to give you an idea on what I started with. The control arms are badly rusted to the point I could pull chunks of flaked rusted metal off around 3/16" ish. So probally not a good idea to run those anymore. The spindles may be good enough to just reuse with some new bearings. Worst case I will just reuse them or some other "good" used ones from someone doing a 2" drop. But I would just rather buy some new ones.

Just start with a completly new IFS that will bolt up to whats left of the old frame. No need to complicate a system that works just for looks.

Being all stock you would think parts would be easy to find.
Speedway sells a complete new upper and lower arm assembly with all the bushings, bar, ball joints, etc installed so thats a no brainer.
I will buy it off amazon from speedway using a gift card and it will be around $200 with alot of headaches eliminated.
I am going to run new stock 4 cylinder springs and then will play around changing shocks to get the feel I want. The shocks just drop through the middle of the spring/control arm on 2wd so I won't need to remove the lower arm each time.


The thing I am running into is the sea of all the lowered aftermarket stuff for the s10 spindles. Mix in some A, B, X, G body "metric" spindles and I have a good chance of having "stock" spindles that are just different enough to cause a issue or I will flat out end up with lowered spindles.

I have been roaming G body sites thinking that might be easier to just say I have "this" give me stock spindles. They use the s10 spindles because the hole position which is around a half a inch diffrent and allows for a bit tighter turning radius.


As long as I change the spindles before welding up the drag link, and tie rod heims I can adjust for the diffrent hole position. But I would rather just use s10 spindles so I can keep the IFS all 94 s10 when replacing bearings/rotors.

I highly expect to see some scoring on the spindles I currently have. Lots of part outs of the 2nd generation s10 so I should be able to find spindles. But frankly I know I personally would not waste time tearing apart the IFS for used parts I might sell for $40.
I don't expect to find anyone selling just the spindles. Maybe a entire frame though.
Junkyard is a option I don't want to play with when it is 10 degrees out. Lots of time wasted for potentially just slightly better condition parts.

I have found 83 to 94 2wd blazer "steering knuckles" which should be the same. But everything is out of stock or $300 to $450 PER SIDE (Dorman). I am fine paying $200 even $250 after shipping for a set of spindles. Lots of "metric" ones in that price range. But $250 is the point where I can justify just running the ones I currently have.

So where can I find factory height 94 s10 spindle replacments?
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Along with the S series vehicles, Blazer, Jimmy, Sonoma, etc
78-87 G body (Monte Carlo, Cutlass, Regal, etc) will interchange.
They are everywhere.
Whats your location and I’ll get you a number to call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I seen a forum post where someone had measured the hole diffrences and started all this confusion. But I can't find it now so screw it.


Bought Left and Right metric (80 G body) ones off amazon.

CCP were cheaper via ebay. But the reviews on those castings are mostly bad.

Apprently at some point in the 80's the lug nut/studs threads changed. So I will just make sure to order rotors off rock for a 91 s10.
 

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More for Less Racer
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The difference between G-body and S-10 spindles is just the length of the steering arms cast onto the spindle. That is the hole location difference, the tie rod end hole on the steering arm is farther out.

Only effects turning radius, and possibly bump steer. Doesn't effect fit or function otherwise.

GM went from SAE thread to metric studs sometime in the 1980's, I can't remember what year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The difference between G-body and S-10 spindles is just the length of the steering arms cast onto the spindle. That is the hole location difference, the tie rod end hole on the steering arm is farther out.

Only effects turning radius, and possibly bump steer. Doesn't effect fit or function otherwise.

GM went from SAE thread to metric studs sometime in the 1980's, I can't remember what year.
Oh that clears things up. I have not built my steering box mount and can easily move the box /draglink forward. The holes being further in from spindle to spindle is what would cause possible tie rod toe adjustment issues/limitations once that tierod is welded up.
 
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