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4 chevys and a ford
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614 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello hotrodders.
I noticed quite a bit of fluid leaking from my wife's 2000 windstar.
What I found was water pouring out of the A.C humidity drain port.
I never have seen quite so much drainage from the port, even in hot
and humid Atlanta. I just replaced the heater core less than a year ago,
and I figured maybe I installed a faulty one. So I pulled open the heater core
box, it was dry and I saw no signs of leakage. I also ran the van and watched
the core....nothing, no detectable leaks.
I put it all back together and ran the van. Same problem. I have not driven it enough to see if the coolant level begins to drop. What I did notice was the A.C lines were very cold and covered in condensation. All while the A.C controls were switched off, and the visable part of the compressor clutch was NOT spinning. Is my A.C stuck on??? If I switch the controls on the clutch does
begin to spin. Any takers?? What am I missing? :confused:
Thanks as always!
 

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4 chevys and a ford
Joined
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614 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did figure out that if I turn the ac button off after the ac has been running,
the ac stays on, as if the off button is broken. If I turn the ac,fan, and the ignition off, when I restart the van the ac will be off....go figure.

The water pouring out had to be because of extreme humidity that day.

Thanks for the input
Brian
 

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399 Posts
I would top off the refrigerant.

If you have noticed a larger amount of condensate discharged than normal, and you feel that the humidity has not been excessive, then you most likely have a leak and the refrigerant needs to be topped off.

(The water that you are speaking of is called "Condensate". It is the product of the process of "Condensation". The pros never call condensate, condensation.:thumbup:

What is happening is that the refrigerant is piling up on the low side of the system because of the heat load and demand for cool. After compression and the run through the condenser, it is losing too much heat on the high side and is introduced back into the evaporator, where it is colder than normal. That creates more condensate (I like that word!) than normal.

If you have a gauge pack, look at the pressure on the suction side service port. This will be after the evaporator coil and before the compressor. With engine running, check the pressure and then the temperature that the gauge needle is indicating. Then with a thermometer, check the temperature of the refrigerant before it goes into the evaporator coil (heater box side coil). If you compare these two temperatures, there should be a difference of about 15 degrees.

Using the high pressure gauge, check the pressure and then use your thermometer to measure the outside air temperature near the front of the car. If you look at the gauge and read the temperature indicated at the pressure shown, it should have about a 35 degree difference if the charge is correct.

I hope this helps you out. :D
 

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4 chevys and a ford
Joined
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614 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what would cause the excessive heat loss at the high side/condensor?
Humidity is down and all seems fine now. The ac is working fine with the exception of not turning off when I hit the off switch.
Thanks
Brian
 

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399 Posts
The refrigerant being on the low side. There is a thermo expansion valve for a metering device that separates the low side from the high side of your system. If the system is low, then the valve will be open and the majority of the refrigerant will be piled up on the low side of the system because the restriction is minimal. The compressor not only compresses, but is also sucks.

Might be time to slap a gauge pack on to see what is going on.

That will tell the whole story.

It is normal for the system to run even if it is not in A/C mode. I dunno about running all the time tho, so I would look for a bad or shorted control switch.
 
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