Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a third crank shaft pulley for my 350 chevy to line up my power steering pump, I have removed the three bolts holding the two existing pulleys,but it appears that the damper bolt washer is holding those pulleys on also, any ideas how I can add this pulley without trying to get the damper bolt off , as the motor is in the car and there is no room to get an impact wrench in there, it's an automatic car so using a socket and breaker bar won't work, thanks in advance for any ideas
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,646 Posts
A socket and breaker bar will work. You just have to prevent the engine from turning. You can have someone hold a bar into one of the teeth of the ring gear while you go at it with the socket
 

·
WFO
Joined
·
5,030 Posts
I just bought a third crank shaft pulley for my 350 chevy to line up my power steering pump, I have removed the three bolts holding the two existing pulleys,but it appears that the damper bolt washer is holding those pulleys on also, any ideas how I can add this pulley without trying to get the damper bolt off , as the motor is in the car and there is no room to get an impact wrench in there, it's an automatic car so using a socket and breaker bar won't work, thanks in advance for any ideas
You could open the center hole up but I'd caution you against doing this because the outer pulley center hole has a lip that locates it to the existing pulley so they run true. Without the center hole locating the outer pulley, the bolts would be all there is to locate/center the pulley, and the holes are loose enough that the pulley could have some run-out.

So, best bet and correct way is to remove the damper bolt. The way suggested above is as good as any, if you have a helper.

Have you tried loosening the bolt w/the belts all in place? Often that's enough (along w/the engine compression) to allow the bolt to be loosened. If you have a manual trans, put it in high gear, apply the E-brake/chock the wheels and give it a try.

If not, an old trick is to remove the plug from an easy-to-reach cylinder and bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the crank CW some more (past TDC), and using clothes line cord or similar, fill the cylinder up w/the cord. Rotate the engine CCW until it stops turning, then you can loosen the bolt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
removing the crank bolt.

I was looking at having to remove the bumper grill, radiator, etc to use and impact gun when a buddy that was a factory mechanic stopped by. I had already tried putting it in gear with the E brake on. THE EASY WAY use your breaker bar and socket and rest the end of the breaker bar on the driver's side frame rail. use duct tape or have someone carefully hold it so the socket won't fall off. THEN bump the starter, the bolt will stay stationary and the engine will turn loosening the bolt.The starter gear multiplied by the teeth on the ring gear has a lot more torque that you could pull even with a 5 ft cheater pipe on your breaker bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone for the great tips !!! I think i will try and get the bolt off, to loosen the bolt is it clockwise or anticlockwise, and what is the torque specs when tightening:confused:
Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,784 Posts
engine rotation

normal engine rotation will loosen to bolt. Anti-clockwise engines are normally only found when a large boat has two drive engines . each one opposite from the other to help stability. and I think Chevy Corvair Flat 6 were Anticlockwise rotation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,684 Posts
Thanks everyone for the great tips !!! I think i will try and get the bolt off, to loosen the bolt is it clockwise or anticlockwise, and what is the torque specs when tightening:confused:
Thanks again.
Turn the bolt counterclockwise to loosen it. Clockwise to tighten it. Torque to 65 ft. lbs. Use red locktite on the threads to keep from backing out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,613 Posts
The "cheater bar on the driver's side frame rail" will work great for loosening the bolt, but not so well for tightening it to torque spec. I used to keep a very large straight slot screwdriver (about 30 inches long) in the garage for holding in the flexplate teeth and against a part of the engine block to prevent the crank turning so that the other of us could use the socket to torque the damper retaining bolt. My son called that tool "Dirty Harry".
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top