[JohnTN]

I am street rodding a 1939 Olds after a frame off restoration. We have a 1971 Olds 350 engine, QJet carb, TH2004R, transmission, HEI, and no computer.

What kind of kit do I look for to add cruise control, and how is the control mounted on a plain Ididit column?

Would a late model GM column with cruise control on the stalk work with a new kit?

John

 

[poncho62]

Maybe, if you have a wiring diagram for the column and the unit.

I have found that aftermarket CC units are crap. Maybe, you can adapt a factory one.

 

[cboy]

John,

I put an Audiovox Universal Cruise on my '32 and I'm very happy with it (especially considering the $90 price tag). It has button controls (not a stalk/lever) which I mounted in an inconspicuous spot below the dash. I have 9,000 miles on it and haven't had any problems. The only drawback I can see is that the installation sheet is not very good and I had to search out a couple sites on the web to that sort of walk you through the installation and calibration of the unit. BTW, for some additional bucks you can get a stalk mounted control switch.

 

[302 Z28]

I agree with Ponch, most if not all aftermarket CC's are garbage. I would adapt a late model GM unit to the street rod. The criuse in my 90 Chevy full size truck is all electronic, with zero vacuum lines. It has been bullet proof since new. When I finish my 34 I will be looking at that model truck for a cruise control. I would stay away from the later models as they interact with the VCM (vehicle control module) too much to be adaptable to a street rod unless you are running the engine and trans that the VCM is controlling.

Vince

 

[cboy]

Aaaaaaaaaaay, you callin' my cruise control junk? Put up your dukes.

Dewey

 

[302 Z28]

Aaaaaaaaaaay, you callin' my cruise control junk? Put up your dukes.

Dewey

Left a disqualifer in there , most if not all.

Vince

 

[cboy]

Not to worry. There are a lot of people who would agree with you about the aftermarket cruises. My personal opinion, at least about the Audiovox, is that they would have a much higher percentage of happy customers if they would spend some time to write a decent installation/troubleshooting manual.

 

[302 Z28]

I think it would be an easy matter to adapt a 90's model Chevy truck cruise to a streetrod. the cruise on my truck is one box. You could use a speedo trigger for an electronic speedo from AutoMeter or VDO and tie it into the GM cruise control. I think it would make a sweet installation.

Vince

 

[36scsc]

I dunno if I would knock all after-market units. Over the years I have installed several vacuum types with varying degrees of success, but for my current project I purchased and installed a Global Cruise Rostra all electronic unit...

http://www.rostra.com/cruise-control.htm

While I cannot vouch for how well it works since I am not on the road yet, what articles I have found all say good things. The instructions were easy to understand (never got that "these instructions have been poorly translated from some other language feeling"). The controls are on a (good looking) wand that I installed on my Ididit column as the turn signal control (fishing the wires down to a hole I drilled was not my favorite sub-project).
It is quite a bit more expensive that the vacuum units (which is probably a good thing).

Last spring I purchased and installed an Audiovox unit on my motorcycle. Installed 2 magnets on the rear wheel for the pick up. Couldn't get it to kick in below 35 mph. Called the tech line. The guy was very rude and just looking for a reason to get rid of me. At first I was vague about what it was installed in. Finally told him. Waa-Laa, now he had his reason to get rid of me, which he did. Ain't no difference between my installation and magnets on a drive shaft. Anyway, wont be buying anymore of their stuff.

 

[[email protected]]

I installed one of those 80s GM vacuum operated controls with the remote pot metal case that two speedo cables go into on my buddie's '42 Willys truck. Beauty of this unit is the control is 1 inconspicuous button in the end of the turn signal. There are no markings whatsoever so unless you know it's there, you have no clue the truck has cruise. Had to check out a dozen or so control units at the junk yard to find one that didn't have spun/frozen bearings on the internal workings. But we finally found one that looked good. We hid the box back under the bed of the truck near the speedo shaft on the tranny so there is zero evidence inside or outside the truck that it has speed control and it has worked perfectly for many miles over the last 12 years.

 

[36scsc]

Willys,

All units I can remember typically have... set/coat, resume/accel. on/off.
With only one button whats the deal, just 'set/coast'?

 

[[email protected]]

I don't recall all the protocol but it has all the features. As I recall, quick tap sets it, hold the button down accelerates, maybe double tap and hold second tap coasts, tap the brake pedal turns it off. Anyway, it is a really neat setup and best of all comes pre-installed in a stock GM column from the junk yard and you know how much I love getting parts from the junk yard! Here is the column installed in his truck. Photos don't show the button unfortunately.

 

[Mr. Jigs]

First unit I had was a Audio Vox, mounted it on a Model A. For those of you who are familiar with the A, there isn't much room under the dash, so I had to go under the car, being a Roadster I don't drive in the rain if possible so I thought I would be safe. Worked fine for about a year then it would engage but after a couple of miles it would drop out, tried everything finally took it out and replaced it with a Global all electric, that has never worked, lights are on but no one's home, anyone have any ideas let me know.

Thanks
Jim

 

[cboy]

Worked fine for about a year then it would engage but after a couple of miles it would drop out, tried everything finally took it out...[snip]

I'm no help on your new Global unit but, like you, I also had to mount my AudioVox down on the frame of my 32 pickup where it is exposed to the elements (wind, rain, etc). I had some cutting out trouble whenever it rained so I fashioned a simple aluminum "shield" that covers the part of the unit where all the wiring goes in. This has solved the problem (so far). I also had a problem because my brake light sending unit (which also cuts out the cruise when tapped) is also under the car and exposed. I twice had rain kick up under the car and tear the cruise control electrical lead right off the sending unit. This is a major league danger in that once the lead is disconnected it NO LONGER disengages the cruise when you tap the brake. The first time this happened it caught me totally by surprised. I was doing 55 with the cruise on and the car ahead of mean suddenly decided to turn left...and I found myself barreling down on them at 55 mph...with the brake peddle to the floor. (It left a very nice set of skid marks for about 100 feet). I finally figured out what was happening and reached town to hit the manual "off" button...but sure had the adrenaline going. Moral of the story, make sure all of your electrical connections are correct, secure and not exposed to moisture or a lot of turbulence.

 

[enjenjo]

I have installed several of the Audiovox units with no problems so far. Instead of the magnets on the driveshaft, I use a Ford inline speedo cable signal generator. Ididit has a turn signal switch with the cruise buttons built in that will work with the Audiovox cruise, it will also work with the Rostra cruise.

If you have an electronic speedo, that will give a signal for the cruise too.

The old GM cruise is good too. Only Oldsmobile and Caddy had the resume feature, the rest had to be reset every time.

I have installed the late GM cruise in several cars, but always with EFI engines. They are particular about the signal they receive, the aftermarkets ones will work with a sine wave generator, the GM cruise needs a square wave signal. Painless makes a signal generator that will work, but it's $85. Otherwise they will work fine with a carbureted engine. You do need a tach signal too.

 

[36scsc]

I installed a Global unit and after 2 initial problems I have concluded that it is superior to any other aftermarket unit I have ever delt with.
The first problem was simply a weak connection in a harness connector. The second was in the violet Brake Negative wire. The manual says to connect that wire to the 'cold' side of the brake light switch. I was not at all comfortable with that because it means the expected ground connection, when the brake pedal is not depressed, has to be routed through your brake light filaments so you may end up with higher than desired resistance. Even if that is not your problem you might want to consider doing what I did just to make sure it is never a problem... cobble in a 5 pin relay.
85 ground
86 cold side of brake light switch
87 12volt (hot in run)
30 CC violet wire
87a ground
You did not indicate if you have carefully gone through the Self Diagnostics Testing Procedure. Assuming you did, did you get the expected results? Are you using a VSS signal or an auxiliary Speed Sensor?

 

[Mr. Jigs]

I did go through the self diagnositic. with the expected result. I am using the vss signal. Can you go through more detail on the purple wire connection, I do have that on the break switch. My electrical know how is limited, I like mechanical things.

Thanks

 

[36scsc]

OK, since electric's are not your strong suite, try 'this' before you bother to add the relay... just remove the violet wire from the brake switch and jumper it to a good solid ground, then take it around the block to see if the CC will engage. But remember, now it will not automatically disengage when you step on the brake so be ready to turn it off at the switch if it does work. If the CC works here, you have too much resistance in the brake light wire for the Global unit and you definetely need to cobble in the relay. Like I said, you might want to do the relay in any case. You can pick up a 5 pin relay at most any auto parts store (do not get a 4 pin). The rest is pretty easy... each spade connector on the bottom of the relay is identified by one of the values in my previous post (85,86, etc.) Just connect them like I stated.
You probably did not wire in what the manual refers to as the Orange Enable Output (ENO) wire. If not, waltz down to Radio Shack and pick up a 12 volt miniature L.E.D (green was my choice). Hook up the orange wire to one side and ground to the other. Then go test the CC. When you get up to speed and engage the CC this lamp should light up. It also may flicker when you turn the CC off or on at the switch. Let me know how it acts.
They make a both a 'closed' and an 'open' control switch... can you tell me which one you have?
I know you said you went through the diagnostics but I want to double check that you did the VSS test whereby you roll the car a few feet forward/back and check to see that the LED in the unit flashes.

 

[lilchevybrat]

CC in a 1976 blazer

So if was to use a CC out of a later model chevy in my 1976 blazer it would work better then a after market CC. So like out of earlest model with CC would work in my 1976 Blazer.

 

[Mr. Jigs]

Cruise Control

I am in Minnesota and have a roadster, so I have put away finishing this project until spring when I can do the road test, or is there a way to test without driving?