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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What do you do in say welding a quarter panel. I'm gonna weld the splice but after the weld I can't get behind the weld. Won't it rust through if I can't treat the back after the weld?
 

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yes ,it will start rusting imediatly afterwards...Dont splice unless you have too ...and if you have too ...put the seam where you can get at it... if its already done and these aren't options get some galvinized coating at lowes in the spray paint section it works surprisingly well,then undercoat but wait till the cars painted to undercoat its extremly flamable
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats the thing though. After i splice weld it I cannot get in behind it. I can use weld thru primer before welding the butt joint together but not sure how that will hold up after i weld it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I haven't welded it yet. I'm just getting everything to fit now. I'm gonna use 3m panel bond on most of it but the acutal splice I am gonna weld it. Well I just thought it was easier to splice. If I replaced the whole panel i'd have to take off my t top roof and it would come off in pieces and they are super expensive. It's a 1995 firebird. I can probably find a way to get in the back to paint it but i'm pretty sure I can't get back there to grind the weld down.
 

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Go get some Weld-thru primer.

It's available at most auto paint supply and welding supply outfits, Eastwood tools etc.

It's got a high-zinc content so still allows a mig-arc to be struck against it.

Some things to keep in mind:

You cannot top-coat with paint
It will burn off - if you get the weld area too hot

That said, it's still the best thing you can do to try and treat the inner panel area you can't get to after welding the patch/panel in.
 

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the galvinized compound can be welded and is better and cheaper than weld thru I always used weld thru primer until my painter swore by it and actualy brought some over because I wouldnt try it... now... thats what I use... its much better....so for 7.00 try it then make up your own mind then let us know what you think,also try the weld thru primer so you have something to compare it to....its called "cold galvanizing compound" by rust-oleum at lowes,try the differnt types yourself on some scrape pieces.its a small price to pay for the knowlage. I love it !!! two transparent light coats insted of one heavy coat.. :thumbup: it has a high zink content and CAN be top coated again after welding..try it rambo you'll see its better I swear.
 

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pavetim said:
I haven't welded it yet. I'm just getting everything to fit now. I'm gonna use 3m panel bond on most of it but the acutal splice I am gonna weld it. Well I just thought it was easier to splice. If I replaced the whole panel i'd have to take off my t top roof and it would come off in pieces and they are super expensive. It's a 1995 firebird. I can probably find a way to get in the back to paint it but i'm pretty sure I can't get back there to grind the weld down.
I've welded hundreds of 1/4's...Are you using a used 1/4 or a replacement chineese one ?you dont have to go up the roof ether,Since youve never done this before (im asuming) do you think you can handle doing it like this????it'll save you a ton of useless work and be ten times better your fighting a loosing battle with a splice...and it'll be a very expensive lesson to learn. check this out. Full 1/4's I cut down the inside looks just as nice as the outside,the seam was steped (flanged ) for strengh and very little warpage,no bondo ,two thin coats of ez sand putty....ez,better,cheaper and faster.A used 1/4 is better than a after market panel and its still GM..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got a quarter cut from a yard so it's OEM. I already cut it apart for my splicing so right now have to do it. If all else fails I can get anohter quarter and redo the whole thing. Ok i'll try the galvanizing stuff. Ok next question i've never used automix panel bond. I have some holes from drilling out the spot welds. Instead of welding the holes closed and grinding can I just "ooze" the panel bond out of the hole with I install my quarter and then sand the panel bond, and paint?
 

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bonding proceedures

"OK next question i've never used automix panel bond. I have some holes from drilling out the spot welds. Instead of welding the holes closed and grinding can I just "ooze" the panel bond out of the hole with I install my quarter and then sand the panel bond, and paint?"

There may be others that disagree, and they may get it to work, but my answer is no to the above process. If the hole is there, plug it shut. I would not see any need to use panel bond on a removed part. It is my experience, that it can only be used where seam is not an issue, jambs,tail lamp panel, outer wheelhouse etc. not on the sail panel or "body line" splice as shown by DB. That stuff works great for its intended use, and is garbage if it is abused.
Show some photos of the areas you are concerned about accessing, that would help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't mean plug it while the panel is off. I mean the part off has the holes but when I apply it i'll just apply it over the panel bond and then sand it. I don't mean i'll plug the hole with it off. I'll try to get pics.
 

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pavetim said:
I got a quarter cut from a yard so it's OEM. I already cut it apart for my splicing so right now have to do it. If all else fails I can get anohter quarter and redo the whole thing. Ok i'll try the galvanizing stuff. Ok next question i've never used automix panel bond. I have some holes from drilling out the spot welds. Instead of welding the holes closed and grinding can I just "ooze" the panel bond out of the hole with I install my quarter and then sand the panel bond, and paint?
When I glue ,I use panel bond adheasive from SEM I use drill screws every 2-3" glue it and remove screws (when dry)glue up the dril screw holes real good....their like glue rivits (works very weLL) Was there a lot of damage? the inner structure might be bent up ..preventing a good fit...cheeck the door to 1/4 gap if its tighter than the other side you may need to do a little extra work,but check it first......used parts is the only way to go on most work ,for repair or collision...good choice :thumbup: :thumbup:is your panel bond made for steel? I've never used it ,some are for only fiberglass vettes
 

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35prog said:
"OK next question i've never used automix panel bond. I have some holes from drilling out the spot welds. Instead of welding the holes closed and grinding can I just "ooze" the panel bond out of the hole with I install my quarter and then sand the panel bond, and paint?"

There may be others that disagree, and they may get it to work, but my answer is no to the above process. If the hole is there, plug it shut. I would not see any need to use panel bond on a removed part. It is my experience, that it can only be used where seam is not an issue, jambs,tail lamp panel, outer wheelhouse etc. not on the sail panel or "body line" splice as shown by DB. That stuff works great for its intended use, and is garbage if it is abused.
Show some photos of the areas you are concerned about accessing, that would help.
Thats what I thought too...I dont weld AND glue ...the extreme heat may damage the bond......I never believed you could glue a panel ,till it was demonstrated in front of me ...the glued seam was impossible to tear apart ... even with an air chisel...the metal tore before the bond gave up I resto'd a Ghia all the patch panels were glued & screwed ....10 yrs ago ..it still together ,looks good...I know it works first hand...very expensive though,not really worth the price any more..10 yrs ago/ yes ,it was worth it.cheaper than a welder though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah i'm using 3M 8115 automix. So it's all made for metal. I'm only welding the rocker part and the splice seam. the parts that goes onto the door jamp and wherever else i'm glueuing. I've done alot of reseach and panel bond sounds like the way to go. but even panel bond recommend welding in some areas. Well i'll give it ago, you've helped me out just have to experiemtn with scrap pieces to see what would be better, my weld thru or that cold galv spray. Thanks.
 
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