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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace both the rocker and corner on my truck cab. The concern is, because the rearmost part of the rocker inner and outer (at the cab corner) is completely shot as is the corner, I'm concerned that fit up of these parts may be difficult. How can I be sure these parts go back on properly? Do I need the door on to check these parts? (doors are off and the cab is on a rotisserie) Part of the floor will have to be repaired along the top of the rocker seam. Should I fab this part 1st to help aligning the other parts? Any advice?
Thanks.
 

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You did not say what kind of truck, but sounds like you are talking Chevy and if you are, you did not say anything about cab support which is usually eaten up also. I think you have to approach each job differently, depending on how bad the rust is and how extensive. Also, I would not tackle a Chevy on the roto. I would put the cab back on the frame, remporarily rehang the door to make sure things have not moved too much. Then remove the door and take measurements fore and aft, up and down inside the door opening and from oposite rear door pilar to replacement side pilar. You might want to tack weld some 1"X1/8" angle iron where you measured to help secure you opening stays in place . Now you have to decide what to replace first. If it's a Chevy, I would go with the full OEM rockers if you can get them, any thing else will require a lot of work to make them fit. When the rocker is tacked in, then tackle the floor patch, which is also the inner rocker. If it's a Chevy, replace the cab support at this time and then cut out and replace cab corner. I strongly urge you not to use slip over cab supports if you plan on having the truck long cause the cancer accelerates !! Good luck and stick with it.

Trees
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The project is an '87 chev. The frame isn't available right now to put the cab on.(I'm held up on the frame painting and assy. at the moment.) The rocker is the full length oem type and the corner has extended height. I was thinking of tacking in bracing in the door opening before cutting out any bad sections. I'd also rather not install the doors just yet if at possible. I have little (spell none) auto body experience, but I do have 10+ years in metal fab. Is this doable, or am I playing with fire?
 

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Gearhead;

Trees is right. The truck should go back together w/the frame and doors, to make sure door alignment is perfect. Then tack bracing, like he suggested, before removing doors or frame. If you don't do this first, it's almost certain that you will have door alignment problems after repacing the rockers. this problem will be permanent.Speaking from bad experience with farm trucks.

As far as the job being "doable", it,s not too bad, if you can weld. Get a buddy with some experience to give you a hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OH NO!!!! you mean I built the roto for no reason? (sob.) I guess I have a new dilema. I was really hoping to keep the cab on the roto. (I was moving the cab around on a skid with the forklift, and the rotten rockers were collapsing.) I am building the truck where I work so it must be stored outside and be mobile. I am concerned with time on this project, with several steps backward already, I really need to make this happen. (may lose shop use if it slows down) Unfortunately I have only 1 night a week and a few hours here and there so I'm hoping to max. my productivity.
I guess my new question is this; with the rockers shot what can I still do while its on the roto? I would like to have the floor and supports repaired/replaced and painted before the cab is replaced on the frame.(and leave it there for good) Would it be advisable to do this much and then do the rockers when its back on the frame? I don't have time for on-off-on again.
I also need to rework the rear cab support where the mounts are, I figured on doing the floors/supports and rockers first and then repairing that part after. It looks like that won't work as planned. It sounds like you guys really know your stuff, so I'm hoping you'll help bail me out! I'm planning a late night on it tonight so any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your earlier input.
 

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YOne thing you could do is find the door opening measurements a body shop thats been around a long time might have old frame books with correct numbers.Or measuring a truck that is original and carefully measuring. What about hanging doors on truck on the rotisserie and getting your panels tack welded in place take your time fitting the weldings the easy part.You should definatley not weld this thing up without the doors you are going use.
 
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