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What is the status on the All Metal Filler, is it a good product can it be laid down over epoxy ?

What are other reliable products ?

If All Metal is a quality product why is there no mention of it much ? Maybe there is but I have not noticed.

I also was told that guys use this to build up a larger area then finish it with regular filler, they say the All Metal is too hard and that is why they finish with regular. Is it too hard meaning too hard to sand ?

:pimp:
 

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All metal fillers for seam filling?

I too would like to know if in fact this stuff does "take the place" of lead work..TV programs {Cut,Chop,REbuild &Musclecar} tout this stuff as "same thing only better"...is it in fact as good as correctly applied bodylead? Thats lead metal not bondo..BTW, has anyone used Devcon products?
Thanks, Randy
 

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NOt sure about that product but a long time ago I used Metal 2 Metal (I think that's how it's spelled). It was really hard to sand. I guess I could see it's use where one previously would have used lead, but I used it incorrectly as a general body filler. Held up fine but in retrospect a regular filler would have done the job and been easier to work with.
 

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It's all a bunch of TV hype. All that stuff is is just metal powder suspended in a catalyzed polyester base. It looks like metal once it's cured but it's the same thing as any polyester filler. Used to ba product called "AlumaLead", I used it once, but found it to be more hype.

Vince
 

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I've used it a few times, found it hard to spread, hard to sand and it didn't seem like it was any stronger than regular filler.

In it's plastic stage, when you could shape it with a sureform file or piece of 36 grit, it crumbles instead of sands...and it doesn't feather well either. :smash:

It's also hard to judge how much hardener you put in, as the hardener is clear, and it doesn't change color when you catalyze it.

If you want strength, use the short fiber filled polyester filler. (not that kitty hair stuff...that stuff is gross)

Later, mikey
 

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I've also heard that it is more likely to cause ghosting. That where the repair is visible under certain temperature variations.
I guess that cause by the different expansion rates of the aluminum filler and the steel sheetmetal. Has anyone else heard of this?
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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I used "Alumalead" back in the seventies, what crap.

Listen, use RAGE and be done with it.

Use as little as possible, repair panels properly so there are no cracks in the metal or stuff like that and. Allow the products to completely cure before adding any more, that sort of thing. Use the RAGE correctly and you will have no "ghosting", no shrinking or cracking, it will out last you and I.

Brian
 

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Alumnalead was popular in the 60 and 70s as a cure all for rust out. It didn't work any better than bondo.

I used some metal to metal last summer, basically as an experiment, around the welded area where I frenched in my taillights, thinking it would make a better surface than plastic. Like Mikey says, it crumbles unless you hit the mixture right on, it is difficult to mix, I threw the first couple of batches away. I hit it right on the third batch, it wasn't any different than the normal plastics to finish. I used plastic to finish over the the m-to-m, it was just easier to work and my experiment told me I just wasted 30 bucks for something I didn't need. Like any other filler, the longer you wait to sand, the harder it will be to sand.
 

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if you need something out of the norm, that is water proof, sands easy, is stronger than any body filler, can be applied thicker and can be worked with and formed longer before it sets up than any body filler, do this.
Purchase Loctite 9430 epoxy adheasive. pick up some "CAB-O-sil" and some "micro baloons" [ glass spheres ] in the 20-200 microns size from your local plastic supply company or hobby shop. You wont find any body shop doing this, it takes about 24 hrs to set up but what you have is bondo on steroids. sometimes that metal needs a filler that you use for build, then apply your store bought filler for final paint work sanding. I was turned onto this by a high end restoration shop metal man,who also taught me how to lead. if you want more info, send a PM
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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twoANDfour said:
The only, and I mean absolutely ONLY time I'd recommend it is if you are going to be powdercoating. ;)
Have you used it and then powder coated over it? I havn't done much powder coating and have never experimented or studied if any filler could hold up to the heat so I have no clue. But my gut tells me that there is no filler product that would hold up.

Have you ever personally done it?

Brian
 

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Lab-Metal Hi-Temp is the stuff you can powder coat over, I have not done it, but every place I have ever had powder coating done says it's ok to use it. I know of a few motorcycle frame builders who radius the welds with Lab-Metal instead of bondo, then they powder coat the stuff.

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?ID=2

All Metal or Metal 2 Metal is not even close to the same stuff as Lab-Metal.

Later, mikey
 
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